1/2 to ME: Top Three-Ish Spots to Brush Your Teeth

2024 Halfway Sign, Mile 1098.7

Hello, Pennsylvania!! Over the last few days, I passed through Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland. It is wild to recall that only a month ago, I was standing at the 1/4 GA>ME sign in southern Virginia. This state is home to a full quarter of the trail. I found it to be full of beautiful views all the way through. As a result, it was hard to choose only three scenic teeth-brushing locations to share. Soo, here are my

Top three-ish spots I brushed my teeth (in Virginia)

#1 Wind Rock

In the last days of May, I made a few new friends, walked barefoot up grassy fields to the beautiful Burkes Garden overlook, swam in Dismal Falls, and rested at Woods Hole. For a day or two after Pearisburg, the trail followed the VA/WV border. When planning out my route one morning, I discovered a viewpoint called Wind Rock, with room for tenting. A fellow hiker’s comment on FarOut warned me that this was one of the best views in a long time. Hopeful, I was looking forward to what she described as “an undeveloped” landscape of wild West Virginia.

I watched the sunset and shared dinner with a few section hikers before sleeping in the Rice Fields Shelter. The next morning, I awoke to a foggy trail. The air was thick with humidity. Clouds sailed through the mountains. I navigated the aftermath of a recent storm, climbing through downed trees that had fallen across the path. I was delighted to find a few newts and a snail. By mid afternoon, blue skies had returned. I arrived at Wind Rock to find a quiet (but windy), sunny view.

After setting up camp just steps away from the rocky outcropping, I nestled myself among the boulders for a dinner of ramen with a view. I was quickly surprised to find a friendly little garter snake peeking out at me through a crack in the rocks. He joined me for dinner, and I realized that the comments from other hikers proved to be true. I couldn’t see a road, house, or water tower, just green hills for miles. I studied the shades of green, varying across miles of broccoli-covered landscape. 

I was joined by another thru hiker and a fun crew of trail maintainers just in time for sunset. I brushed my teeth. We laughed as we discovered a fearless family of bunnies- definitely the owners of this rock. One even chewed through the guideline of my tent! 

As morning came, I relished the serenity of the early light. Clouds floated over the hills like waves passing through an ocean of green. I wanted to linger all day, but 18 miles were calling my name. I was excited for the upcoming…

#2 Triple Crown

Just a couple of days after Wind Rock, I arrived in the Virginia Triple Crown area. The renowned Dragon Tooth, iconic McAfee Knob, and underrated Tinker Cliffs make up what is known as Virginia’s Triple Crown.

On the Sunday of Memorial Day weekend, I awoke well before the sun for a 22 mi day with over 4,000 feet of elevation gain. It was a long, beautiful, sweaty, sunny day, filled with trail magic, steep ascents, the 700 mile marker, and Dragon’s Tooth! The huge, jagged rock pierced the sky, reminding me of the rocks in Garden of the Gods in Colorado, but smaller, white, and climbable. So climb it, I did. And then I brushed my teeth. 

After the steep, rocky descent to the road, I walked to Four Pines hostel, where I surprised my old friends Magpie (Bennett), Pringles (Lee), and Ivy (Derek). I was delighted to see several other familiar faces there as well. After resupplying at a gas station, I made brownies while a tornado tore up the land around us. I was grateful to be inside that night.

The next morning, we hit the trail together for the first time in over 200 miles. It was lightly raining, but by the time we arrived at McAfee Knob, we had a great view. On the way up, I had asked every day hiker how to pronounce McAfee. You wouldn’t believe the smattering of pronunciations out there. I’d say the locals go with Mac-uh-fee. At the Knob, we sat on the rocks and shared lunch with a group of 5-10 other thru hikers. I also brushed my teeth! 

On the way to Tinker Cliffs, I spotted my first black bear, lumbering across the trail about 20 feet beyond me. Everyone tells you to shout, “Hey, bear!” to scare it away. This one didn’t look threatening, and something in me felt like singing, but the only song that came to mind was The Lion Sleeps Tonight. So I sang to that bear and she did run away. I did not take it personally. 

It was not an easy hike up to Tinker Cliffs, but we were rewarded with my favorite Triple Crown views. It was no Wind Rock wilderness, but instead, a green valley dotted with houses and farms, hemmed in by a long, green ridge. I will say, by this point, I was getting a little tired of brushing my teeth. 

Bearfence, Shenandoah National Park

After exiting Daleville, the trail parallels and often crosses over the Blue Ridge Parkway. If you stay on trail, you are rewarded with what I call “pop-outs.” These are spots where the trail pops out of the green tunnel and onto the Blue Ridge Parkway, usually at a scenic overlook. Further north, the Parkway turns into Skyline Drive, which runs the length of Shenandoah National Park (the Shennys). Again, the trail parallels the road, keeping you in the green tunnel as you listen to cars and motorcycles sailing down the endlessly scenic road nearby.

In the northern half of the park, I was surprised by a few views you cannot reach by car. One of which is known as Bearfence. It is a series of huge, jagged boulders, jutting out of the earth at an sharp angle. Had I known how spectacular this view was going to be, I would have planned to come here for sunrise. As it was, I arrived just after 7AM, and the sun had already risen. Regardless, this rock scramble offered 365° views. Already sweating, I drank in the stunning panorama, marvelling at the light streaming down through the clouds. I lingered (not forgetting to brush my teeth), so delighted by the rocks and hills and sky. 

It was a wonderful start to my longest day of hiking yet (28 miles). A couple of hours later, I arrived at the Big Meadows Wayside, where I downed 2 famous blackberry milkshakes and a bowl of eggs. This is living the dream. Overall, my favorite day in the Shennys.

Views often act as a reward for the walk. My feet hurt and I’m worn out, but this open expanse of ground and sky makes everything worth it. Knowing I walked 900 miles to get here makes it even sweeter. Bonus points if I have to climb a little to see something. What can I say?? I like big rocks, and I cannot lie! Will I be saying the same as I exit Pennsylvania? There’s only one way to find out.