After Two Zeros

No one wants to start a thru- hike with the flu, but, sure enough, Bill caught it on day two. So our two zeros were necessary to keep us out of the weather and get him healed up.

Double Digit Hiking Day

Neel Gap to Low Gap Shelter. After our two zeros, I came back strong. The goal has been at least 8 miles a day for the first three weeks, and we had been nailing it.

While we were resting, Bill challenged me to a 12 mile day on my freshly rested legs. Happily, I agreed. 

We took the shuttle to Mountain Crossings, and I shopped for the items that I had carefully chosen to replace the items I was sending home.

I needed warm sleep pants. I had several miserable sleeps because I was so cold at night, so light weight cozy pants were item one on my shopping list. Next was an easy-to-use knife to cut my cheese and summer sausage. Food was the final item on my list.

We packed up, and hiked out of Neel Gap.

Immediately I was dazzled. Snow on the trail. THIS was the reason I had wanted to start in February. I wanted to hear the soft crunch of snow under my shoes. See the sparkling white on the mountain side. What I didn’t imagine was the sparkling white on the bright green pine trees. The soft white of the snow on the mountains in the distance. It was dreamy.

Because of my gorgeous surroundings, hiking 12 miles wasn’t as hard as it could have been. But by mile 10 my legs were giving out. Thankfully, I have learned to manage my water and food consumption for those times I feel like I can’t take another step. I ate a protein bar and three caffeinated Clif Energy Chews and chugged some water. That helped me push to the end. 

We arrived late in the day at Low Gap Shelter. Dinner was quick and then we set up camp.We went to bed exhausted, but slept fitfully. Sleep on the trail is not something I have gotten under control yet. Living on a boat spoils you. Avemar has gently been rocking me to sleep for two years, so the shock of sleeping on a mat on the ground in a mummy bag has been difficult.

New Hiker Friends

Low Gap to Blue Mountain Shelter. Since Bill and I were both exhausted after our 12 mile day (for him mostly because he was still recovering from the flu). So we opted for a shorter 7.5 mile day. If it weren’t for the snow on the ground and the giant ice cycles (some as tall as me), I couldn’t have made it. Glittering snow was on the cold side of the mountain and Georgia clay mud on the warm side. I had plenty of opportunities to practice my no-fall strategy. It mostly worked. An extra wide stance, keeping one foot on something that ISN’T muddy (rock, leaves, root!) and moving diagonally.

That night we stayed at Blue Mountain Shelter. We met some super fun new friends. We all collected our water at the little stream before we got to camp. Bill was busy starting a campfire, his kindness did not go unnoticed. Ally, Sarah, and I were chatting about amazing books we had read recently, like The Overstory and Demon Copperhead, while filtering water.

Suddenly Ally screamed! She said, “There’s a fish in my water!” We all ran over to see the fish! Surprise! It was a SALAMANDER!!! A baby one. We all decided it would be best to take the salamander back to where he was so he could continue his happy life!

After that excitement, a new hiker- The Milkman- arrived, and we all chilled out by the fire and ate dinner. Everyone thanked Bill for the roaring, warm fire to end our day around. Sharing our trail stories was inspiring, and it pumped me up for the next day. I was the least experienced hiker and hearing about their ups and downs over the years encouraged me.

Everyone was hiking out early, so we turned in at sunset. Sleep was evasive that night (again), even in my cozy pants. We slept in the shelter, which had not yet allowed me a good night’s sleep. So I shouldn’t have been surprised.

But the sunrise the next morning made it all worthwhile. I cannot begin to explain the beauty. I sat up, still inside my mummy bag wearing the hood like a hat, watching the sun come up in silence. I cried more happy tears in awe of the spectacular sunrise.

Trail Magic: Lobster Mac and Cheese

Blue Mountain to Cheesecake Factory. We took that morning slow again, leaving at 10:30am. The snow was disappearing from the mountainside, but there were still sheets of ice to contend with.

Our hike started nice and easy across the ridge of the mountain, then we hiked down to a road crossing. And what do you know, just what we needed to get through the day after a night without sleep, TRAIL MAGIC. Rainman, a former thru-hiker, had homemade Lobster Mac and Cheese, as well as fruit, veggies and sweets. I was famished, and I savored the amazing, creamy, salty Mac and Cheese. I am a seafood lover, so the addition of lobster was extra special. We met two other hikers who had met on the trail, and we frogged-hopped with them all day. 

Before we left our Trail Magic Experience, I got one more piece of inspiring information via the Chatahoochee National Forest Visitor Information kiosk. We were MORE than half way through the state of Georgia!

Saying goodbye to Rainman was step one. Step two was literal steps. I am finding that every road crossing brings a big climb into my path next. So the Trail Magic at road crossings are just what the doctor ordered. THANK YOU to all trail angels out there!

It was a bright and beautiful day of hiking. We only did six miles, stopping at a campsite down in a grove of mountain laurels. At first, we were only going to Cheesecake Factory to get water, but it was so cozy and quiet under the mountain laurels that we decided to camp there. The ground was warmer and softer here, so I had high hopes of getting some good sleep.

I have hopped down the rabbit hole of how the Cheesecake Factory Campsite got its name. In my mind, The Cheesecake Factory is a busy restaurant with scrumptious cheesecake flavors. Well, after rereading The A.T. Guide 2025 Edition, I found that the campsite is actually called the Cheese Factory, still doesn’t make much sense since you can’t raise cattle in a grove of mountain laurels. 

So I continued to research and found the answer in Hikeminded’s 2017 post. She explains that it was named to commemorate an “eccentric” dairy farmer who actually DID raise dairy cows in that very spot in the 1800s. His rugged dairy cows helped him earn awards for his cheese. Who knew?

We sat on some logs and made a delicious hiker meal of Sweet Pork and Rice. Not only did it taste amazing, but it also packed 20 grams of protein. We will be buying more of these meals for SURE!

Our chores were done quickly, and we climbed into bed early. Sweet sleep came quickly. We woke up rested and ready to hike some bigger miles. The goal today: 9 miles to Deep Gap Shelter.

Easier Hiking: Warm and Bright

Cheese Factory to Deep Gap Shelter. We had to hike straight up the mountain at the beginning, and it kicked my ass. But I can feel my legs getting stronger.

We finally got to what Bill had told me was going to be a flatter section for six miles. It was so bright and sunny that I had to break out the sunglasses. We started early that morning at 7:30am, so we got to take lots of breaks and enjoy the beauty all around us!

Because there weren’t so many hard climbs today, we got our miles hiked early. At the end of the day, we had a picnic on a rock that looked out over what seemed like hundreds of mountains. I got happy tears. It was the first perfect RELAXED moment of the hike. I have been working my ass off to learn all the mechanics of thru-hiking. Just the process of getting up and out of camp in the mornings is still challenging for me. So this moment of pure relaxation was invaluable.

We hopped off our rock after an hour’s rest and finished our last mile to Deep Gap Shelter. It was a long hike down, but we crossed a creek and got our water filled before we got to the shelter.

When we finally arrived, we found Deep Gap Shelter empty. It was the best shelter I have ever slept in. 

This was the kind of day I had hoped for as we were planning the trip. I went to sleep in the shelter, warm and comfortable. We planned to go to town for a resupply, laundry and shower the next day, so it would be a short hike of four miles. But we had to get out at sunrise to make it to the shuttle by 10am.

Back into Town

Deep Gap Shelter to Dick’s Creek. Mornings are hard for me. Always. Even when I have something to look forward to. Rheumatoid arthritis makes you stiff and sore most mornings. And this morning I was more stiff and sore than any other day on the trail. I think I knew why, but I have to do some research before I write about it.

Regardless, I tried to get out of bed a half hour before Bill unsuccessfully. I did make it out of bed ten minutes before him, but it was slow going. I got packed more quickly than usual (pleasant surprise!) Unfortunately, I was freezing and had somehow lost a glove. Sheesh! I had a second pair, but they were rain gloves and I can’t even tie my shoes with them on. So getting ready took forever. I was still cold when we hiked out, so I chose to keep my fleece pants on. Dumb idea.

Less than a mile on the trail, I had to take off the pants. I had two more stops for costume changes in the next mile. But halfway through I got back into my groove! Whoo hooo! My last two miles were the fastest in trail according to my friend who is tracking us!

We arrived and waited for a half hour on the shuttle, so I got in a good stretch. While walking for my cool down, I found another AT information kiosk that said we were ALMOST out of Georgia! What an excellent hike this was!

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