Day 2: Burgers, Beauty, and Above the Clouds

Cold Mornings and Stiff Legs

Appalachian Trail Day 2: From Stover Creek to Hightower Gap

I woke up at Stover Creek Shelter to the soothing sound of the creek nearby and a strong desire not to move. My body was sore—especially my shoulders and calves—and the air had that sharp early-March chill that makes you want to stay zipped in your bag forever. But the sun was creeping in, promising a beautiful day, and this trail isn’t going to hike itself.

I moved slowly. Every motion reminded me that I carried my home on my back yesterday. My fingers fumbled with cold buckles. My quads resisted the squat of tent takedown. Still, something in me had shifted—I wasn’t hesitating because I doubted, just because I was learning what it means to wake up sore and choose to keep going anyway.

I hit the trail again around 9:30 a.m., same as the day before. Even through the soreness, I could feel a rhythm forming. It’s funny how quickly discomfort becomes familiar.

The Trail Turns Up the Heat

Well, not literally. It stayed chilly all day, but the trail definitely turned up the intensity.

The climbs came fast and didn’t let up. Roots, rocks, and switchbacks demanded full attention and full effort. There were moments where I was honestly surprised by how tough it was this early on. It felt like the trail was giving me a firm handshake and a raised eyebrow—You sure you want this?

But even between the grunts and the breath-catching breaks, the beauty was undeniable. Early spring light cut through bare branches. A hawk circled overhead. The silence was complete. There was no music—just the sound of the trees swaying, the crunch of my footsteps, and the rhythm of my breath.

I was hurting, yes, but I was also in awe. And that’s kind of the theme of this trail, isn’t it? The hard parts are often wrapped in beauty, and somehow that makes them feel worth it.

Trail Magic at Hickory Flats

Just after the waterfalls, when my legs started questioning all my decisions, I caught the unmistakable smell of smoke—and then I saw it: Trail Magic at Hickory Flats.

A full-on hiker oasis had been set up by some absolute legends. There were burgers sizzling on the grill, hot dogs, bowls of chips, cold beer, and fresh water. It was surreal. On Day 2, no less.

I couldn’t stop smiling as I loaded my plate. The trail angels chatted with us like old friends and made sure everyone was fed, hydrated, and encouraged. It wasn’t just the food—it was the energy. Pure generosity in the middle of the woods. It felt like the trail was saying, You’re doing fine. Keep going.

I left that spot with a happy belly and a full heart, reminded that sometimes the trail gives you exactly what you need, right when you need it—even if it’s in the form of ketchup-streaked paper plates.

Grinding to Hightower Gap

Fueled by kindness and calories, I pressed on toward Hightower Gap. It was still a grind, but a slightly happier one now that my belly was full and I’d been reminded that magic can exist in the middle of the mountains.

The trail gave me a few more steep climbs before opening up to some gorgeous views. It’s funny how quickly exhaustion turns to awe when you hit a vista. One second I’m questioning all my life choices, the next I’m whispering wow into the wind.

There’s a kind of quiet out here that you don’t get anywhere else. It’s not silence, exactly—more like the sound of everything that matters and nothing that doesn’t. I found myself pausing, not because I had to, but because I didn’t want to rush through the beauty.

When I finally arrived at Hightower Gap, I was tired. Sore. Ready to stop walking. But not quite ready for the trail to stop giving.

Above the Clouds (and in Hiker Heaven)

I caught a ride from the gap to Above the Clouds Hostel, and wow—what a place. Warm, welcoming, and exactly what my aching body needed. The owners were kind, the bunks were cozy, and the energy was easy and relaxed. There was an unspoken understanding between everyone there: you made it another day, and that’s something to celebrate.

But let’s be real: the food stole the show.

Here’s what I devoured (zero regrets):

• A full plate of spaghetti
• A salad
• Three pieces of garlic bread
• Two breadsticks
• Four slices of pizza
• And four chicken wings

I wish I was exaggerating, but I earned every bite. It wasn’t just a meal—it was a celebration. I sat at the table surrounded by other hikers, trading trail stories and laughing about how ridiculously hungry we all were.

And then the guitars came out.

Music, Community, and That Trail Magic You Can’t Pack

After dinner, hikers gathered in the common room. Someone started playing guitar, and another joined in. Suddenly, we were all circled up—singing, swaying, laughing. Some songs were familiar, others made up on the spot, but none of it mattered. We were strangers two days ago. Tonight, we were a trail family.

There was something ancient about it. Something sacred. Music has a way of melting whatever walls are left after shared miles and sore feet. For a moment, the trail didn’t feel so long—it just felt right.

I sat back, belly full, soul fuller. I was exactly where I was meant to be.

What I Learned Today

Today taught me that the Appalachian Trail doesn’t ease you in—it breaks you in. It tests your legs, your lungs, your mindset. But just when you start to falter, it throws you a burger. Or a view. Or a moment of connection with someone who totally gets it.

Pain and joy live close together out here. So do exhaustion and gratitude.

Every step today was worth it. Every muscle ache, every breathless climb, every crumb of garlic bread. And even when it got brutal, the beauty made it worthwhile.

Today’s Stats:

• Date: March 8, 2025
• Start: Stover Creek Shelter
• End (on trail): Hightower Gap
• Overnight: Above the Clouds Hostel (via shuttle)
• Miles Hiked: ~11.9
• Weather: Sunny, breezy, and cool
• Trail Magic: YES—Hickory Flats: burgers, hot dogs, snacks, drinks, and encouragement
• Highlight: Music, food, and the feeling of being right where I’m supposed to be

Tomorrow, the trail calls again. But tonight? I’m warm, full, and so incredibly grateful