Appalachian Trail Days 41-46: Massachusetts to Mt Greylock

Day 41 – The Hemlocks Shelter to Tom Leonard Shelter (14.0 miles)

Day 42 – Tom Leonard Shelter to Shaker Campsite (11.3 miles) 1534.4-1545.7

Day 43 – Shaker Campsite to Upper Goose Pond Cabin (10 miles)

Day 44 – Upper Goose Pond Cabin to Kay Wood Shelter (17.6 miles)

Day 45 – Kay Wood Shelter to Mark Noepel Shelter (16.7 miles)

Day 46 – Mark Noepel Shelter to The Hostel at Bascom Lodge at Mt Greylock (3.3 miles) 

Day 41     

It was raining hard when I woke up, but supposed stop halfway soon. I opted to wait it out and left very late at 10:30 am.  Right away, I had to go down a steep rock face with wet rocks. After negotiating the worst of it, I dropped my guard a bit, and took my 2^nd fall of the AT journey. This left me with a lingering cut on my leg, but otherwise not to bad. However, given how steep it is, it does scare the daylights out of you to trip and stagger around on a narrow steep cliff.

 

Along the way, I passed a bit of early American history – the site of the last battle of Shays Rebellion. (Best to look it up).

History on the Trail

Eventually, the day improved with a few long stretches of fairly flat terrain. Because of the late start, I didn’t arrive until 6pm. I also got caught in a shower that left my shoes wet agai

Day 42 

It was quite chilly overnight. The other guy in the shelter got up in the middle of the night and moved to a different bunk because he said there were mice; I didn’t see or hear anything.

Throughout the trail, there have been innumerable stone walls (from 1700s?) out in the middle of no-where in the forests.

One of Many Stone Walls in the Middle of No-Where

Because I had only planned 11 miles and it was cold, I stayed in my warm bed and held off leaving until 9:00 am. It was a cool, windy day. Again, the options for shelters were poor – either 10 miles or 25 miles. I chose to bypass the shelter and go to the Shaker Campsite. This had formerly been a Shaker community that had eventually been abandoned.  There were tent platforms, but my tent wouldn’t fit, so I pitched the tent on the ground as usual and cooked dinner while I dried my socks.

Campsite

 

Fixing Dinner

Day 43      

The day was sunny, but chilly.  The trail was very nice.  Also, about 100 yards from the trail at a road crossing is the “AT Trail Stand”. The owner provides internet, phone charging, and honor-system sales of drinks and snacks. I stopped for about an hour to use the internet and charge my stuff. These kinds of things are incredible blessings!

A True Oasis

Wifi, Power, and Honor-System Supplies

Given today was only 10 miles plus a ½-mile walk from the trail to the cabin, I arrived early.  The Cabin is run by an AMC Caretaker. It has no running water or electricity, but has a gas tank for cooking. It also has a lot of bunks and camping spaces. A beautiful location on the pond. The pond was warm enough to swim, but would have been freezing after getting out.

Goose Pond Cabin

What a Great Place!

Warming in the Sun by the Pond

Being the first one to arrive today, I spoke with the Caretaker and his wife alone. They offered me a pancake left over from breakfast this morning; being perpetually in need of calories, I happily accepted! They said they had an average of about 4 people per night; however, this night there were over 15. Figures!

The next morning, the caretaker cooked everyone pancakes and made coffee!

Killer Breakfast – Powered and ready to Go!

Day 44        

After the pancakes and coffee, I was fueled and moving fast!  Even then, the through-hikers from Georgia (at the front of the through-hiker pack) caught and passed me.  I crossed the Mass-Pike (I-90) which had a bridge just for the AT. 

A Dedicated Crossing for the AT over the Massachusetts Turnpike (I-90)

In the early afternoon, I reached “The Cookie Lady’s” house. A short walk off the trail on the road provided a chance for cookies and a drink, as well as a chance to charge the phone.

True Saints – Cookies and Drink for Donations (I know that backpack)

Along the way, there was a wonderful view of Mt Greylock about 20 hiking miles ahead.  I continued to the shelter and was the first to arrive at about 5:30 – which is kind of normal. Also normal is that 2 more arrived about 6:30, then several more arrived after dark.

Next Destination – Mt Greylock 20 miles away

Day 45     

Although chilly over night again, the day warmed up a lot, and ended up very hot.  I left at 6:00 am and arrived in Dalton after 3 miles. I had breakfast and then bought a grinder for lunch/dinner. (Grinder is the local term for a sub/wedge/poor-boy/…).  I then went to the town rec-center to get a shower. The showers are free, and I rented a towel. I took my dirty shirt and pants and washed them by hand, then partially dried them in the sauna, and hung them on my pack to finish drying.

A short distance further was Cheshire and a short road walk to resupply at Dollar General. My pack was now overfull and VERY heavy.  I had to make the choice of staying in Cheshire at a campground, or continuing about 4 steep miles uphill to the shelter with an overloaded pack. The deciding factor was that the forecast was for a bad rainstorm most of tomorrow starting sometime in the late morning, so I labored on.  Getting to the shelter partway up would leave me with another steep, but much shorter, 3-mile climb tomorrow morning to get to the hostel at Bascom Lodge on Mt Greylock.  In spite of bad phone reception, I was able to get a hold of Bascom Lodge and confirm availability. This way, either I would beat the rain entirely, or I’d have all day to dry out.

Day 46    

I got up early and powered up 1,000 feet and 3+ miles to the Lodge just ahead of the rain.  However, instead of raining all day, it was only about an hour. While it poured, I enjoyed coffee and a muffin in the warm of the lodge.

Mt Greylock

 

Bascom Lodge

 

After the storm cleared out, the view was nice

The bunkroom had only 1 last night, but tonight? Would I again bring the hordes with me?  Around noon, a half dozen through-hikers arrived in the pouring rain, and sat down to eat and dry out. They had all come up 3,000 feet and 8 miles (at a much fast pace than I would have) from Cheshire, so, it was an excellent choice by me to go to the shelter yesterday, and finish today BEFORE the rain.  After the rain ended, it cleared out and left behind excellent views from the top of the mountain. The through hikers all pushed on in the afternoon, but I and 2 others stayed overnight.

The bunkroom was very nice with only 3 of us

I note that I am ¼ done trail, but not quite Halfway from Harper’s Ferry to Maine. Slow, but steady.

Almost Halfway to Katahdin