May 2 – May 10

5/2

I hiked a short, easy day to Erwin, TN at 10.2 miles with only 1300 feet of elevation gain. My heel was screaming when I woke up; I think it’s from yesterday’s fall. It was okay when I walked on it but terrible if I was trying to stand up from sitting cross-legged on the floor. No idea what’s happening here. (Narrator- this is the torn planter’s fascia I mentioned in the last post – but I won’t find out what I did until May 17)

I got to town around 2/2:30 having walked with Scott and the pupper Chuck Norris for most of the day. I also encountered Just Walking and Multifunction on the trail, as well as two section hikers whose names I didn’t get. There was water at first but after the shelter no sources were recorded for the last 6 miles, and the day was going to be hot. I filled two liters and conserved it well till town. There were some nice viewpoints on the final descent with beautiful rock outcroppings and great views. I had Scott take my picture. There is an amazing river that cuts right through town. I want to go swimming in it. I think it’ll make my foot hurt less. I’m definitely in pain. I eventually ask the 5pm shuttle driver about it, and she says this river is a top ten destination for white water rafting. I think this sounds amazing. I’m actually told that Cinderella left this morning but was trying to get people to go with her… maybe if we meet again.

Anyway, Uncle Johnny’s Hostel is right there and I got my bunk – yay a bottom, then collected my REI package and immediately sought a shower. I grabbed a loaner dress and put it on post-shower. It was basically like a shirt on me. So I took my shorts out of my pack and wore those, which also meant pockets. The laundry is one machine and it’s full, so I put my bag on top to signify that I’m next. I get it started around 4pm. The shuttle to town leaves at 5pm. I can smell my shorts. I opt to take them off and hide under my rain skirt. I get them into the washer to get clean. Before leaving town, I even manage to change my laundry to the drier, but I know it’ll be dry in there brief I get back. I let the proprietor know and comment that my laundry can just be thrown on top when done. It’s actually folded when I get back. Which was nice but so unnecessary. Thank you, kind stranger!

So the cast of characters is pretty nice. We have Prometheus and Multifunction, Scott and Chuck Norris, then eventually Happy arrives too. I also run into an Australian guy Toby that is quitting the trail and is staying here while he plans his next move. I recommend hiking in some of the U.S. national parks, especially out west. I also run into Speedgoat (Kim) and a guy whose name I think is Tugboat but it could be Lugnut. I had met them miles ago, and they had quite the story to tell me. Apparently, i walked right through some unfolding chaos a few days ago. So right after I left Hot Springs, I had run into them on the second day getting water. I was already looking for Tugboat because I met a hiker the day before who was looking for him, and I wanted to make sure they meet up. These folks are from the UK. There were three of them at the time, not sure where the third is.

I had actually forgotten about where I had seen them last, but a big story came out of this. They were sitting having lunch when an older man with a huge pack came by. They didn’t think anything of it. Next I caught up and spent an unusual amount of time debating hiking up the next ridge or joining them for a snack. I hiked on up the hill.

As I’m walking up, I see this older metallic car roll up to them and ask them something out the window, they respond. The guy pulls down the road and parks his car with some urgency, blocking the only two others in. I see this from above on the trail and find the scene strange. It rubbed me the wrong way, and I looked down a bit but didn’t see anything else happen. I hike on past what I think is the other backpacker. I think it’s strange that he’s stopped so close to the trailhead, we’re stronger than that, but again I didn’t think anything of it, not knowing any of the rest of the story and the yoohoo being steep.
So today I find out more. The guy in the car asked about the old man. Then parked, drew a gun, and headed up the trail. He may have hidden the gun again at some point. Apparently, he was looking for the old homeless man because he had stolen something from him/his house then took off. The UK folks tried to call 911, but then had to use their emergency rescue beacon to summon help because the phones didn’t work down in the gap. I was thankfully fast enough to not have any clue of anything unfolding around and below me. I should have found it strange that I didn’t see the fast hikers again, but it didn’t occur to me.

Apparently after dealing with the police, they didn’t want to remain in the area in case the guy came back seeking revenge for the report, so they went back to Hot Springs to hide while the police could sort it out. After copious recitations of OMG on my part, I said something to the effect of “welcome to the United States” then they joked about it being the most American thing that’s happened to them so far. Unfortunately, they were heading out to see a friend so I didn’t get to hang out very long. (Seriously y’all… just more reason to always choose bear).

Back to today. I received my new sleeping pad – yay, and my next two Amazon boxes arrived with food and pants right on time. I give away some excess food (a dozen oatmeal pie cookies is far too much for anyone). I trade my rain skirt for my new pants (with pockets) and head to town. The shuttle will drop us off at the outfitter or the Food City. I choose the Food City. As we’re heading that way, we pass a Walgreens and I comment about wanting to pick up a prescription (my B12 shots) so I get dropped off there instead and walk to the grocery store afterward. That mission takes about 30 minutes. While I’m getting meds, I’m told the other hikers went for hamburgers. The place was drive-thru only but they were told they’d get served if they stood in the line with the cars, and they did. I’m told the burgers are great.

I, on the other hand, want steak. So I go crazy in the grocery store filling a giant bag with salad, garlic bread, an avocado, vegetables, steak, shrimp, a pint of 1/2 and 1/2, etc. I also buy some resupply for the trail. At this point I have no idea how long I’ll be out there. It’s about 120 miles to Damascus, with a few small towns accessible nearby with Shuttles. Also, the weather report shows rain and lightning for the next week. I’m not impressed. I have no idea what I’m doing/packing for. I just buy random stuff I might eat.

I’m probably leaving tomorrow, but I’m grossly unprepared, but what difference does it make at this point? I have pretty much everything I need to survive on my back and as you know I barely eat my trail food on the trail. I did drink the dairy and eat shrimp in the grocery store parking lot as I was waiting for the return shuttle. Apparently, a second load of hikers came too, but they were told they we’re coming home together in the same van… we ended up with 15 people crammed in. I was sitting in the back, on the floor. Ahh, I’m living the life. I joked that if we got pulled over and removed it would look like one of those clown cars… upon arrival it really did look that way with people spilling out from every door.

Anyway, I got back and got to work eating as much as I could. For hours, I worked on what I bought. I even ate one of the steaks by cooking it over the open fire – after nibbling some of it raw (cause y’all know that’s how I roll). I definitely took some weird looks for that. I also cooked most of the garlic bread over the fire before giving away the rest. I spent the night eating with my fingers and trying to contain the dripping steak juice (yes, I know it’s myoglobin) that ended up all over my hands and face and somehow my shoulder too.

Prometheus built an awesome fire which was great then extended a spite-filled olive branch to another group with a fire by bringing a bundle of firewood to help stoke the flames of their sad little fire. And OMG did it work. Suddenly their tiny fire was leaping 5 feet high. Ah, Prometheus bringer of fire…
Eventually, it’s bedtime. I have a lot to do, but I’m in the bunk, so I try not to make too much noise. I’ll deal with this tomorrow.

 

5/3

Woke up at the Hostel. The bed sucked and I was miserable all night. There were two sleeping pads stacked on top of each other. I thought it was going to be great but it ended up a combination of overcompressed and insanely fluffy leaving me achy and unsupported. I woke up and packed. I had about an hour till the shuttle and I still didn’t know if I was coming back or staying at the super 8. So I packed and took everything to town.

My first stop was the library, I needed to print a shipping label for my REI return. I was originally just returning the malfunctioning sleep pad. But since I was already paying for shipping I also opted to return my puffy ( which kept ridding up) and a pair of Gore-Tex gloves that the folks in the store highly recommended (but I ended up having no use for on the trail).

I also wanted to exchange my rain coat for a smaller size. I idiotically bought it as a 3x so all my layers would fit comfortably under it not realizing it would be insanely too warm to wear more than a thin shirt under it. So now I want one a few sizes smaller because I’ve been swimming in it which means I hate it and resist wearing it. I’m not sure if I want the Gore-Tex or if I just want a giant poncho for me and my bag, tbd. Maybe I’ll figure it out at Trail Days, I just know my current version isn’t working out for me, but in don’t want to send it back until I can try on a new one, so for now I’m keeping the jacket.

Anyway, I arrive at the library where I’m introduced to a cat name Stories. He’s adorable. I later learn that he lives in the stray cat condos down the road but the cats disburse during the day to their chosen businesses. Adorable.

The shipping label is printed, the kitty is scratched and petted and I eat the apple fritter that I bought the day before while drinking a cup of coffee. I’m told they also have hiker snacks and books we can take on the trail. I joke that I already keep the library of congress on my phone and that I’d freak out if I had less than 300 books on me at any given time. I’m so thankful for the digital word where I can achieve this without added weight.

So now I have a problem, I need to get 2 miles away to the UPS drop off point. So I call Miss Janet. And she reports that she is currently downtown and can be to me in a minute and she is. I soon see the van in the parking lot. I excitedly approach to say hi and hope to cuddle Dexter. But Dexter is still at home. I miss ‘my’ pupper but today is for errands anyway. Miss Janet drives me to the drop off location. Everyone there knows her and they asks me questions about hiking. This happens a lot in this town.

My next mission is a quick post office run. I’m sure you’ve noticed that hikers are complaining about the sudden heat. OMG what even happened to Spring? It’s sweltering. I sent home my warm frost knit pants, my warmest gloves (which I also barely use but will have future applications for so I didn’t want to return them unlike the Gore-Tex shell gloves which I really can’t see myself ever using). I also sent home my warmer buff, opting to keep the thin purple one I found in a hiker box. The post office also had its own kitty. This might be my new favorite town. I’m later told that the cats all disburse to different buildings throughout the day and all return to the kitty condos at night. I might move here.

Miss Janet and I chat for while I await the hostel pick up at the outfitter. It’s great to get tips from somebody with so much trail experience. It helps me know what to expect. And since I’m an insane overthinker this at least lets me focus my overthinking on real problems not the myriad imaginary ones my mind will come up with.

The shuttle comes and the folks in it are making a quick outfitter run, so I go in too. I buy some sunblock, but can’t find bug spray, oh well, maybe at the hostel (Narrator, not there either) also a full sugar coke, because why not add calories. The weather report called for rain all day, but it’s still beautiful out.

We head back to the hostel as we are regaled with stories of how many people squeezed into the shuttle once, blowing the 15 human sardines from yesterday out of the water. So, now I’m back at the hostel with all my stuff that wasn’t shipped. Ahh, fun times, so glad I brought 40lbs of gear along for the ride. Going back to the hostel means I’m leaving today. I don’t want to stay another night. I talk to a few folks I’ve been hiking with, they’re planning for at least a 4 mile day to the first shelter. I want to go a bit further but that’s a good start. But first I stick around the hostel eating leftover food from yesterday. I get a bit mocked for buying a turnip, but they’re delicious. My steak is back in the freezer so o can pack it out safely. I eat everything and am ready to hit the road. I charge my devices and prepare to leave. At the last minute I buy a frozen individual pan pizza. Now I have steak and pizza planned for dinner. Both need a fire.

 

As I’m about to leave I see Miss Janet is picking someone up at the hostel and now Dexter is with her. The pupper jumps out the window into my arms and gets copious hugs before he is sent back to his important job as copilot. Yay, Dexter! I missed my hiking buddy.

I am the last of the group to leave the hostel. Right before I leave it starts to drizzle but then stops, I’m not looking forward to what looks like a week of rain coming up. Although the radar and the weather report don’t seem consistent.

I hike across the bridge, through the woods, over the trail road tracks and around the mountain. Eventually I come to a tourist type signs pointing me to all the amenities at the rafting camp. I’m tempted, but I continue on. It’s sweltering, I’m wet with sweat. I debate going back, I hate the heat.

I continue, there is a steep climb shortly before the camp, I really struggle with it. Stopping every few dozen feet. My sweat cloth is saturated. There is so much sweat and wet I can see that the skin on my arms is ready to be exfoliated, I rub it lightly and skin cells are coming off in clumps. Clearly I haven’t been keeping up with my personal maintenance routines.

I arrive in camp and see Happy setting up, I don’t see any other tents so I assume Multi went on, but he’s at the shelter. He’s building a fire. I’m still debating going on and finding a stealth site to camp. But the fire here is tempting. I end up collecting and filtering some water to tell my bottles and some firewood. I also search and find an appropriate stick to hold the pizza and steak.

I cook the pizza first, it’s a slow process and takes at least 20 minutes. But it’s hot and delicious. I’m pleased. Then it’s time for the steak. I sit it on the same stick and position it over the fire. It works well, until the fat catches fire. I eventually quell fire from the steak and cooking stick, at some point I drop the steak in ashes, but I recover it and call it extra flavor.

I eat my steak with my hands, like a heathen. I tell the story of my $100 Smith and Wollensky’s steak that ended up with a similar hand-eaten fate when I was driving across alligator alley and only had my left over blue steak in the car. So there I was hand eating a super rare $100 dry aged steak while driving at over 80mph. Ahhh class!

My hands are covered in fat and drippings, I wash them with water and soap. By this point in the night it had cooled off admirably – I repack my sleeping pad and quilt and hike on another 2.6 miles. I had only put the gear out to save space in case it got too late to leave.

I hike out and call a friend to chat. I don’t usually do that but he had some unexpected news earlier in the day and the mountain caused the call to drop. So we chat until I’m setting up camp at a stealth site.

It’s my first night camping completely alone. I hear something small scampering near my tent but I’m not worried. My food is hung high in a tree. A whip-poor-will sings in the background. I take some time for personal maintenance. Trimming my toe nails and using the cork ball to massage my aching feet. I use the bathroom then head to bed. I don’t realize that I accidently kicked one of my sneakers part-out of my vestibule and it’s going to get drenched overnight. That’s a problem I’ll discover in the morning. For now I enjoy the sound of the wind and the great 5g signal I’m getting from town.

I hiked only 6.9 miles with about 2000 feet of ascent. But I left town after 2pm so this was ok.


May 4,

I woke up at from my stealth campsite and packed and hiked out. During the packing I notice the wet boot, mentioned yesterday, it had accidently been kicked partially out of the vestibule and took on water overnight. Other than this my day is off to a great start. Plus it was real easy to use the facilities overnight with nobody around for miles. And great cell service, so I caught up with friends.

Then I hiked the 1.6 miles to the road. At this point, I need water.  The water is over 500 feet down the road and down a hill.  I’m a bit annoyed by this walk, but there is nothing I can do, it’s the last water for miles and yesterday was a sauna.  So I hike over there and back and when I get back I see a couple of guys setting up trail magic, (including with water). They ask me if I need anything and I say I’m all set. Then I offer reverse trail magic which was me handing over 3-4 oatmeal pie cookies to be added to their supply I did take a few mini packets of skittles. I also leave them my garbage, which this time does include the ziplock the steak was in so I’m glad to be rid of those smells and juices. I have too much food with me, so I was happy to ditch some.

The trail magic was done by two guys from Cincinnati, they said they typically did section hikes but were doing trail magic right now instead.  One of the guy’s name was big dipper, I missed the other name. (sorry,  if anyone knows please let me know and I’ll update this post). Anyway, the guys looked pretty well stocked, they even offered me a beer. I declined because it was 9am. (Also because I don’t like beer very much).

There is a closed road that parallels the trail. I debate walking on it to avoid the roots and rocks for a while but I ultimately decide that I’m hiking the trail not the road so.. Yep, trail it was.

The trail passes this road a few times over the next few miles.  In the past when it’s been open hikers have been able to order food deliveries up there, but not today. This is where the trail passes beauty spot. A place that I had high hopes for with a name like that and after Big Bald but I was let down.  I was also chased across the open field by a very stubborn cloud of flies which made the experience a whole lot less fun.

 I get about 6.6 miles and 2000 feet into my day, to the gap below Beauty Spot and Unaka Mountain when I could hear and see a thunderstorm rolling in. I was just being passed by a couple who had been at the shelter the night before ( the one I left, before hiking on 2.6 more miles) then I see them talking to somebody.  OMG, its Scott and the pupper Chuck Norris.

I go to say Hi and give Chuck some pets. We talk about hiding from the storm in our tents. Scott decides he’s going to press on up the mountain.  I decide to go to ground and hide in my tent.  I setup quick and haphazardly in the flat grass and dive in with all my stuff. I then take care of pre hiding our business…I hit the bathroom in the woods nearby then walk down a side trail for water.  I fill up a bottle of water as the rain starts. Then I dive into my tent. 

My plan is to eat lunch, (really, eat all the heavy things), drink water, and emerge in an hour after the storm passes dry and ready to go.  What actually happened was a bit different.

So I eat and drink as planned then I get tired, since it’s raining there is no harm in a nap. I lay back in my tent, no sleeping pad, and rest my head on my pack. I sleep very soundly, barely waking up for 6 hours.  When I did wake up I felt awful. Both hot and cold, nausea, extreme fatigue. I wonder if I can go on. Its 4 miles back to the main road or 8 miles forward. I want to call for a ride to town but despite being 20feet off the road nobody can get me here.  I’m really feeling awful.

At one point I think I hear a voice but it doesn’t repeat and I’m still asleep. I’m right by the water source, I will be seen here but just by hikers. I don’t feel like the situation is dangerous, in fact I’m snug as a bug in my tent. The thunder has long past and there have been bouts of rain, heavy at times, interspersed with periods of dry.

 I know this unplanned delay may mean I lose the folks I’ve been hiking with.  They should be at least 5 miles ahead now. I debate hiking a bit around 6:30 but I don’t know what the stealth site situation will be like. Plus everything is wet. I’m just gonna call it a day. I’m not sure if I’ll be tired but I actually get to sleep early and sleep a good 8 hours before emerging from yet another deep sleep coma. At one point I’m awakened by the sound of excited coyotes yipping in the far distance.  But I’m not on the menu and I go back to sleep.

I don’t know what tomorrow will bring. I feel like hell and I’ve lost my people.  (Narrator: she was ok in the morning and caught up with her people)


5/5 (14.7 mi, 3800ft gain)

Today I woke up early and packed. I was in that gap by beauty spot so I was going to have a long day if I was going to catch up with the folks I’ve been hiking with. The good news is that I stayed dry despite the rain and am now very well rested.

I really didn’t know what today was going to bring after how bad I felt yesterday. But I woke up and was completely recover and ready to hike. Which is a good thing because I had a longggg way to go. 5.4 miles and 1400ft of ascent to the first shelter where I expected to get to yesterday.

I don’t even feel the hike. It’s easy. Maybe my legs are coming in. Also I can see fog ahead of me on the trail but it’s lifting pretty quickly in front of me. I’m excited that I’ll probably get some views (narrator, no views only trees). The trail passes through a pine forest and sometimes it’s a bit questionable about where the trail goes, but I never get lost. This is that type of pine forest with the amazing sweet aroma that in love so much.

I pass a campsite full of wet hikers drying out their gear and sleeping bags. I feel for them. I also see evidence of other campsites along the way. I wonder if the folks I’ve seen lately stopped on top of the hill or if they kept going. I’m not 100% sure of the nature of yesterday’s rain because I was so in and out with fatigue and sleep.

I get to camp and see Scott and Chuck. I also meet a young guy named Nacho Libre ( named after giving away free nachos early on). Scott is ringing out his socks and clearly had a damp day/ night. He reports that Chuck didn’t cooperate very much and brought his muddy paws into the tent and also knocked down Scott’s dinner. In his defense Chuck was being a very good boy and sitting in the shelter as he was instructed when I got there. Scott is planning to do a supply run in town, so we might lose them.

I’m told that Happy just left about 30 minutes before I arrived and Multi was there, but left early. Eventually Scott leaves and I’m chatting with Nacho. As Nacho is about to leave I see a bag that’s been left behind. He tells me it’s not his, but I recognize the gear in the bag from stories so I try to connect the suspected owner and pack it first. It’s a very spikey trowel, dry soap and a signal mirror. I later find out this person also misplaced toilet paper, but I don’t recall seeing it, but was able to donate from my ’emergency’ supply.

Side note Re: emergency TP supplies -after talking to Ms. Janet, I’ve come to the conclusion that I should bring two bags of TP. One is twice as much as I need, and the other is also twice as much as I need. This is to ‘try’ to be prepared should Noro hit on the trail. It’ll never be ‘enough’ but I figure it’ll but me a day or two until I can get off the trail. Especially, when coupled with Imodium. May I never find out if this is actually how it works?

Back to the story. So now I have another 9.5 miles and 2300ft of gain (days total of 14.7 miles and 3800ft gain with a side trail for water). The trail is littered with cute little newts and salamanders. I can’t help but stop to give all the cute fellows a quick photo session. Lots of changing terrain, wild flowers, and cool bugs too. I see lots of ramps but I’m not picking them today. I may have had my fill a few days ago. I meet a former year section hiker, Sonic, in the woods and a few others. I also catch up with Scott and eventually Happy, although happy ends up beating me to the Shelter.

Once I arrive my first task is confirm the found items belonged to the person I thought, they did. Then I went to refill my water. This is basically a trail that goes down about 70 feet over maybe 500 feet of horizontal distance. I’m not happy about this. I’ve already hiked a long day and now I’m adding an extra .2 for water. I bring a bottle and filter it there because there is no way I’m going to come back down here. There is plenty of water marked on the trail for tomorrow.

It’s dinner time and I hang out with the crowd and eat a packet of peak fuel beef stroganoff – one of the few things I can stomach. I also eat some candy and moon cheese. The shelter is allegedly big enough for 10-12 but it’s comfortably fitting 4 and a dog. It’s a two layer design, but the top layer is split into two separate platforms. I’m on the bottom tier, the pup is above me. This it Ruby, the pup of Stitch. She’s such a cute girl, but she will try to lick your face.

After some rain it’s time to hang the bear bags. I find a spot for my rope that’s very close to the shelter. After taking a light ribbing over it I agree to move it, but literally can’t find any other place. It’s like a comedy of errors with my line getting caught and stuck in the wrong tree and then getting a big knot. I walk the side trail from shelter to trail and back then re-cover some of the distance to the water there are just no good bear hangs to be had. Lots of the tenting folks in the way back have pretty terrible hangs. Eventually somebody points to a tree with a tiny branch. It’s actually not much further away that the first hang, but it’s in the other direction. I manage to hang and hoist my heavy bag there, then I put in a PTC hang. My PTC feels low, so I also tie it off to a tree, but now if the bear wants my food it’ll need to solve two puzzles. And now I’m ready for bed.


5/6 update:
So today  I got trapped in a small valley between two balds during a nasty lightening, rain, wind storm. I was trying to make it 6 miles away and the storm overtook me, and I had no place to go, retreated to the safest place I could find ( which was in my estimation still “a very bad spot”) that was terrifying. Spent the night getting my tent buffeted by winds, flooded by rain( as my rainfly was getting blown out of place), and just a lot of other terrifying experiences. I’m at a hostel now, petting dogs and drying off.
I was 89 feet down from one peak and 150ft down from the other. Believe me, if there was any other place for me to go I would have.
 

 

5/6 – Full post, but y’all already know how this day ended

Today we’re going over Roan Mountain. It’s the unofficial ‘end of winter’ spot where folks are told to keep their warm clothes until they get here. Knowing the weather report for the next 10 days when I left Uncle Johnny’s, I had already sent some of my gear back. But at the last minute, I grabbed an emergency mylar blanket and some hot hands from the hiker box – just in case.
 
So today I’m planning to go 13.9 miles with 3,900 feet of gain. There is a shelter at the top of Roan Mountain that I want to see, but it’s about 6 miles from where I want to end my day. It’s the highest shelter on the AT, sleeps 10-12, and is fully enclosed with a door and some windows. It’s also in a protected pine/fir habitat.
 
Lots of cute creepy crawlies today too. The climb wasn’t too bad, just a whole lot of gentle ups for hours. I’m running low on water because I don’t want to climb down a side trail to get any, so I’m eating wild ramps to keep my mouth entertained. I’m impressed by how well my body seems to be adapting to these climbs. I’m also noticing my stride and foot positioning have changed. I used to always walk on my toes, now my foot touches the ground all the way through the heel on every step. It seems to be easier this way. It’s a strange change but it’s working for me. Part of this is increased flexibility in my long leg muscles to handle these angles, on the uphill especially.
 
As I’m hiking, I ascend into the fog layer. It’s not unusual to walk up and be in a white foggy cloud. I don’t think much of it anymore. As I climb the ridge, I eventually hike out of and above the cloud. Then within a quarter mile, I’m in it again. This time is really dark gray, such is unusual but I don’t think anything of it. It starts to drizzle so I stop to put on my rain skirt (actually used as a pack cover) and rain jacket. It’s just a light drizzle but I think a storm is coming up the other side of the mountain. I debate going back and pitching a tent in a nook I saw, but I press forward. Moments later the squall arrives. It goes from mild drizzle to insane amounts of rain in seconds. I try to hide near a pine tree, as they often block the bulk of the rain, but it’s useless. So much water is coming down nothing can save me. I look at my raincoat sleeve and it looks like somebody left a faucet running. My pack cover has a similar stream. I wonder to myself if I could fill my water bottles with this water – but doing anything without being drenched to my skin at this point would be nearly impossible. I eventually decide to run back and pitch my tent in that spot I saw, so I retreat down the ridge a bit.
 
By the time the rainfly is up there is 16oz of water in my tent and everything is soaked. I use a towel to soak up and bail out the water – the bad angle of the tent turned out to be helpful as all the water started to accumulate in a corner. I’m cold so eventually I put on a sweater under my raincoat. I also crack into a hot hands, I got them in case Roan Mountain got cold, and I’m shivering. I hate using single-use items like this, but this is literally what they are for and oddly, where they were for – since I’m 500 vertical feet shy of the peak of Roan. For some reason, I think I’m lower on the mountain and that there might be a road up ahead. I wonder how bad the weather is and if I should get off the mountain rather than keep climbing. I barely have signal so I really can’t tell what’s happening out there. Plus, I’m low on phone battery, I’ve been wasteful.
 
Eventually, the squall is gone but it drizzled for over an hour. I try to eat, but mostly just hide. I’m in all my layers (not my mylar or sleeping bag) and I’m cold. Motion is important to stay warm. I curl up and rock while shivering. The hot hands help. Eventually, it’s time to return to hiking. I pack my bag, break down my soaked tent, and continue on.
 
The trails are now rivers, but I still have no water. I look for a trailside stream. I find a few options but don’t like them because of debris or nearby sudsing which makes me wonder if the water is contaminated. I’m against drinking water that has crossed the footpath due to potential shoe/footborne pathogens. Eventually, I find a slow seep and start filling up. Then I look ahead and find a faster one so I use that. I only fill a liter. I hear there is a stream by the shelter and even though it’s reportedly unreliable I’m pretty sure after a storm like this it’ll be full. (Narrator, it was a trickle, but it still filled 2 liters when I needed them)
So I finish the switchbacks, drink some of my freshly filtered mountain water then I see the signs saying I’m on top. I walk past a tent that I think might be Happy’s but the owner didn’t respond even when I called out. Somewhere around here I actually lose the trail and end up in a very well-paved parking lot with bathrooms, a water fountain, and a booth for paying for parking. Nobody is around. I head to the bathroom, all locked. I don’t really need to go right now, I just want the amenities of civilization to help me feel more normal, even if these are just vault toilets, they still beat squatting in the woods.
The day has changed, it’s bright sun, and I’m watching the water on the pavement evaporate into wispy clouds that are being blown away by the wind. I debate using the fence as a clothesline for my wet tent. But I figure there’ll be plenty of sun at the shelter for drying wet items. (Narrator – ‘no comment’ probably too busy laughing at my ignorance to comment about how wrong I am)
 
I press on, well actually back, because I lost the trail and end up walking through the cloudland hotel area. Once back on the trail, I find a random fireplace and chimney in the woods… I’m tempted to start a fire in it, but everything nearby is soaked, plus I’m on a mission.
 
I get to the side trail for the shelter. My app tells me it’s 500 horizontal feet and 100 feet of gain. This is annoying but I want to see if my people are up there. And they are. Happy, Multi, Stitch, and Ruby (pupper) are there. The others were ahead but Happy had to have passed me while I was in my tent freezing. I said he should have said Hi, but he commented he was afraid I might have been napping… if only.
So the first order of business was setting up a line and drying my soaked tent. Stitch helps with this. Ruby, the pup, provides moral support. Everyone’s gear is drying out. Discussions of the squall are everywhere, nobody was safe. I kinda hoped, for their sakes, it was just me in a bad spot, but it hit the whole area with sudden vigor.
 
Everyone is set up in the shelter, this one is nice and has a door. I comment that it means we don’t have to do bear hangs for our food since the bears can’t get in to take it. The area is a pine forest again, and everything smells great (you know other than the wet hikers befouling the place with our musk… my kingdom for a shower, but not a rain shower).
 
My plan is to leave and finish hiking the 5.7 miles with only 700 feet of gain to the next shelter. I know some rain is expected but I can’t get my radar up. I don’t remember it being too bad of a storm (Narrator – dying laughing at my complete ignorance of what’s coming). I’m probably there for 2 hours. My gear is mostly dry, and I’m ready to go. It’s 6:30 now. I figure I’ll make it most of the way but might have some night hiking to do. No big deal. (Narrator – probably making a giant bowl of popcorn at this point to watch the show). If I can’t get space in the shelter, I’ll just tent, it’ll be ok. (Narrator… dead).
The weather is fine. I leave. I descend into a cloud. I hike through. Everything is wet, drenched even. The trail is pretty much missing, and a rocky riverbed is in its place. It’s slow going. The forest is still very beautiful though. And it looks like the trail club that maintains this section of trail, you know the one that has not provided any privies, has done some significant trail maintenance work because there is black solid cloth or dragon scale cloth in places trying to keep the trail from eroding. I don’t know a lot about trail maintenance, this section sucks, but clearly a lot of work went into just keeping it from getting worse. As usual, as you approach a road the trail improves. This was no exception. I pass a tent and I’m soon at a road.
 
I know there is an open vault toilet somewhere around here so I do a loop down the road and into the parking lot. I find the magical vault toilet. I’m in heaven. An actual bathroom. I just squatted on the way down, but I’m not missing out on this not-actually-porcelain throne with provided toilet paper, 4 walls, and OMG a door, with a lock! What sort of magic is this! I debate stealing some extra TP because I gave away my reserve earlier, but I’m one partial hiking day from town. I’ll be fine without my emergency 4th roll.
 
I loop back to the AT. I could have cut off a corner here but I loop all the way back to the point where I exited the woods then follow the blazes. The parking lot is full. This feels weird for a Tuesday, and I’m being passed by a lot of people in reasonably nice clean clothing. I wonder if this is some sort of local sunset spot. I climb up through a pine forest, I see a garter snake and play with it using my poles – it is not amused. My goal is to get a good angle for a picture. I do. Then I use my poles to send it on its way.
 
I keep climbing. A lot of people are gathered at the top. It turns out that there was a wedding up there earlier, the bride and groom are doing photos as the crowd of clean, nice smelling, and nicely dressed people looks on. I cut through the crowd, wet, bedraggled, smelly, and holding a 30+lb backpack. I might stand out a bit. At this point, I can see the fog rolling over Roan mountain. I pity my friends who are up there, they’re probably hiding inside now. (Narrator- dies laughing for a second time in this story).
 
I snap a few photos of the bride from up the hill. The background is moodily lit with clouds and sunbeams. The professional photographer must be pleased, I would be. I have great views of nearby mountains, it’s a bit gray in the distance, I see some cumulus clouds threatening thunderheads, but they’re not too big yet. They’ll probably pass right by (Narrator – …). Somebody asks me about backpacking, then another woman comes up with her dog.
 
She’s also a thru-hiker, Arrow. She recognized me when I said my name because I shuttled with her and Zig Zag earlier in this adventure. She had her pup with her. Zigzag was getting water, but they had a tent set up on Round Bald. I mention potential storms and that the bald might not be the best place for camping tonight, but I still have no idea how bad the storms are supposed to be – I’m just thinking rain. I take some pictures, pet the pooch, and head on. I don’t get far.
 
So I’m down Round Bald and hiking up Jane Bald when I start hearing thunder. There are no trees or safe places. Low bushes prevent tents from being placed in most places. There are a few rock outcroppings (insanely dangerous in lightning storms). I need to go to ground before this storm hits me. I’m looking for the safest place. Retreat isn’t an option, I’m a mile from safety in that direction (there must be safer places ahead, right?). I’m 3 miles from the shelter on Roan mountain, only 2.3 from the shelter, only 200 feet of ascent ahead of me, then all downhill. I won’t make it. The storm is on me.
I’m in a tiny valley between two balds. No trees, no tree line nearby. Only up in both directions. There is a pitchable patch of lumpy grass, on a bad slant. So much is wrong with this spot. But so far it’s the only one. The next bald is a 150-foot climb. I’m running up it. But I’m tired at this point and it’s raining. As I am climbing the bald pitchable area are nonexistent, it’s like a ridge trail. Just a rocky river of water and bushes, no place for a tent. Going higher in a lightning storm is a bad idea. I’m out of options. I look back at the pitch point behind me and turn back. I make a run for it. I get my tent up as fast as I can. This time managing to avoid getting ounces of water in it. My towels are wet from before but I use them to soak and wring water. Everything is wet. I’m cold.
 
There are few worse places to be in a lightning storm. The gap is small, but gaps are always windy because the wind funnels through them. The first bands of rain hit. I’m happy to be in my tent. But I don’t want to switch to dry clothes just yet. Instead, I confirm that everything is safe in the pack liner. I try to get a signal to see the radar. I can’t. I try phone #2, it won’t load either. My tent is being buffeted I’m not sure how well it’ll hold up in this. There is no plan B.
 
So much is suboptimal here. My tent is at a steep angle, my tent is pitched with its vestibule over the trail, the wind is hitting my side, not the thinnest part of the tent. The stakes are in wet ground. I bring everything into the tent as ballast. Including my dirty shoes.
I count the time between lightning flash and thunder. The storm is getting closer. There is so much lightning. My tent is being blown hard. I hope the rainfly holds. The whole thing is moving all around me if I wasn’t in the tent using my weight to restrain it then it would be counties away by now. The rain is slamming against the sides of the tent. I don’t think it’s getting inside (Narrator – she was wronggggg, again). The storm is so loud. Lightning is getting very close, at one point my phone alerts that it’s less than 2 miles to the closest strike, I don’t get updates after that.
 
The winds are hitting so hard I start to fear getting blown away. I’m not sure what that would mean for a tent. I wonder if there is a tornado or a derecho or straight-line winds as I feel my tent trying to pull away from the ground with me in it. That only happens a few times the rest just feels like getting hit with strong winds. I’m sitting cross-legged. I’m crouched over my legs in a ball, at times the storm and lightning are so close I’m using my arms to cover my head. I also know this probably won’t help in the slightest. I decide that if I get hit there is nothing I can do, but I should let people know where I am. I have a friend in Florida who actually has been hit by lightning more than once, he said you wake up in the hospital with your fingertips and toe tips blown off and then have to learn to walk again. I guess whatever is blown off grows back because he had all his digits and segments from what I could see. I text ZigZag and Arrow. I ask how they are faring, I tell them I’m in a bad spot near the next bald. They report being ok for now, we’re all just surviving.
 
As the storm wanes, I go through my tent and notice my pack is sitting in a puddle. Then I feel my sneakers and they are soaked. They weren’t this wet/heavy when I put them there. They’re also sitting in a puddle of muddy water. They were on the rear storm side of my tent. I realize they took water because the rainfly guyline pulled off the stake on that side, exposing it to the storm. In the chaos, I didn’t notice. I put the now soaked shoes in the storm-side vestibule; the other side is a river since it’s over the trail. At this point, they really can’t get much wetter. Then I take the wet towels and use them to sop up the muddy water, wringing them out in the riverside vestibule. It takes a while, but I get the sitting water out, and now everything is just wet like a mopped floor. I’m still in my damp clothes from the day. I don’t want to risk getting my only dry clothing wet yet. I use the HotHands, still warm from earlier, and the mylar blanket to warm me.
 
I decide it’s not worth trying to leave this spot, so I set up my tent interior for the night. I inflate my air pad; my pants are drenched, so I change to my only dry pair. I’m not sure what I’ll wear to hike out in the morning, but given my shoes took at least 1/4th to 1/2 an inch of water, I don’t think I’m going to be able to hike the next 12 miles without really messing up my feet. (That level of wet is a one-way ticket to blister city – damp is survivable, squishy isn’t; your skin will prune then rip. I have seen a lot of funky feet out here after the rain.)
\
 
Zigzag, Arrow, and I are still texting. I update on the shoes and tell him I’ll backtrack and shuttle out in the morning. He offers to be the shuttle. I gladly accept. I was debating texting Ms. Janet for shuttle advice, but this is even better; they’re right here already.
 
I break out my sleeping bag and decide it’s time to sleep. I use the mylar blanket to make a shield to keep my quilt off the damp. I wake up a few times in the night with wet feet. My sleeping pad had slipped down the hill and was pressing into the tent side, causing water to get in. Each time, I would carefully dry as much as I can and reposition; then the cycle would repeat. I’m wet, but my down bag is still warm. Yay. I tried wrapping my feet in my raincoat, but then that just got wet too. I don’t know how much sleep I got, there were many periods of wakeful chores in the night. In between these episodes in use my MP3 player to listen to a book that I’ve read many times before. I needed the distraction and the normalcy.
 
Morning comes; first, I can see well, then it’s foggy and I can barely see what’s in front of me. There are some giant worms on the trail, maybe two feet long. I’m heading to the rendezvous point to get out, but I stop to grab a photo. On the way down, I pass 3-4 people heading up. I want to tell them not to go up there, but the threat has passed.

May 7 – 

So I woke up for the last time around 6:40 am. I repeat my chores for the night. Checking for water, wringing out water, etc. I pack my bag. I don’t change but I do put on dry socks, for a moment my feet enjoy the bliss of being warm and dry. Then my feet are unceremoniously shoved into shoes so squishy they feel like water shoes. So much for bliss. At least they’re not freezing cold too like my first morning on the trail. My bag is packed, and my tent was carefully broken down to avoid it from becoming a kite. Somehow I’ve lost one of my tent stakes in the fray, but I’m not worried about it. Everything is wet and therefore extra heavy. But I don’t care because I’m heading for freedom.
I pass a few hikers going the other way, and I stop to chat. It’s nice to see people, but why are they out so early in this awful weather? These thru-hikers are a different breed. I’m more of a fair-weather thru-hiker. The rain returns, I don’t care anymore, I can’t get much wetter. I text with the shuttle, they have to go home for something, and they suggest they may not be able to wait. I break down a bit at this news and probably cry for the first time since I’ve been on the trail. Thankfully it’s raining so nobody will be able to tell. But ultimately when they find out I’m already on the way they’re good with waiting for me. I’m probably 20 minutes away. I’m rushing but also don’t want to fall. Reaching the treeline feels amazing, it’s super dark in the dense pine chest forest, but I know this is the last stretch plus it’s nice to be under the trees for the first time in what feels like a long time. It’s some sort of shelter after all.
 
I emerge and the first car slows and pulls over, is not them, in fact, I can’t find them, but I’m pretty sure this woman is about to offer me a ride. I probably look extremely pathetic and traumatized at this point. I’m holding my tent because it fell off my pack. I’m bewildered, wet, and exhausted. Then my shuttle arrives and I bid goodbye to this woman. I hop in the back seat, their doggo is my companion. He is very cuddly and ultimately falls asleep on my lap. The Shuttle takes me to the hostel I was going to hike into that afternoon. Ultimately this means I’ve missed some miles. I could go back and slackpack this section. But there are still storms and there is a lot of exposure up there. I do want to come back here, but now with the way the current Western report is.
I get to the hostel and am treated very well, especially after they find out where I spent my night. The storm was bad in the valleys from inside homes. The idea of facing it in a tent on a bald leaves quite an impression. I probably have a 1000-yard stare at this point, I have a lot to process and I need rest. I tell them I’m checking in for at least two days, but I know I need to go back to the trail and not let this experience create trail anxiety. It’s like riding a bike after all.
 
I am fed and then I spend hours drying all my gear in the bright warm sun. It was supposed to rain today. These meteorologists have been wrong every day about everything. As I’m out there I encounter maybe 5-6 other thru-hikers that I know, including Prometheus. These folks are only a fraction of a day ahead of me but we haven’t seen each other for days. We hang out and chat as my stuff is drying.
The hostel is cleaned every day so once it’s reopened I move my stuff upstairs, I also start a load of laundry (I had been trying to dry some of my towels and sweater on the porch, I’m not sure why I bothered when they are going in the machines anyway.) I also had my tent out to dry, my sleeping bag, raincoat, rain skirt, stuff sacks, and my pack – all of which needed an unexpectedly long time to dry. I’m not the only one enjoying the sun. The water snakes are out on the rocks below, I take lots of pictures.
 
The property has two doggos a big floofy German Shepard and a formerly very Chonk yellow lab that’s being collar shamed with a ‘Do Not Feed’ sign. To be fair the dog is fat more, but I’m told he lost 35lbs already. A combo of hikers not feeding him anymore and a thyroid condition… ( me too pup, me too). They call his thyroid meds his happy pills bendy they make him feel so much better he actually asks for them in the morning. Yup, I feel you puppy. The doggo is still a bit chonk, i think his name is Donley, but most of us hikers have nicknamed him something with the word Chonk in it. The soft floofy dogs are really comforting after my night.
I buy some small stuff from the store, for example, a ziplock bag to replace a broken one and some candy and a soda to snack on. I’m no longer hungry, I ate a huge amount of food already but apparently, I am a stress eater, so in a stressful situation I find myself able to eat/ snack more than I could otherwise. Realizing this, I wonder what other ways I can find to traumatize myself while on the trail so that perhaps I can eat more… perhaps have a man jump put in a bear suit, or given the current memes, a bear jump out in a man suit?
I’m the first person in the ‘bunks’ for the day, everyone else is leaving. There actually aren’t bunks here, all beds are separate, maybe 4 beds in one room, 2 in the loft above, and three private rooms that sleep 2 each.
As I’m taking a shower John checks in, an older man with a giant foam sleeping pad. The story behind the pad is that his wife bought it for him… I’ve seen him across a few days, he made it to the shelter that I was heading to the night before and reported it was just two people in there. Also two tents. The rain was coming sideways into the shelter so they hid in the back. He also reported that there were two tents at his site. I asked him if they came to the shelter during the storm he said he was surprised they didn’t. In the morning he asked the tent dwellers why they didn’t come. They were new to camping and reported that they stayed because they weren’t getting wet. John recounts telling them that they’ve now already been through the worst so it should be all uphill from here for them weather-wise. I tell him about my night.
The next person in is Stitch and pupper Ruby. They stayed at Roan Mountain last night, the shelter I left and got in maybe around 2 or 3 pm. I’m thrilled to see Ruby – she’s the goodest girl with a very long expressive and happy tail. Stitch is a prior year Thru-hiker out doing a section. Like so many prior year hikers he makes great time. After he arrives he doesn’t even rest, instead, he takes the pupper outside for a bath. I can hear him in the distance telling her she isn’t going to like it but will feel better afterward. She gets towel-dried and comes back. Her fur looks so smooth and shiny and stays that way for days.
As the night wears on a few more folks arrive. The original plan was for Multi and Happy to stay just shy of the hostel, so I’m not expecting to see them till tomorrow. I was pushing ahead because I wanted a shower and laundry. It had been days since my last shower and leaving Erwin was like walking through a sauna. I’m not looking forward to summer.
A few more folks arrive and I chat with the departing crowd. Normally, this place has a restaurant open around 4 pm, but tonight is closed so we’re told they do a pizza run to town. I order an antipasti salad, a cazone, and a pasta bake with mushrooms and meatballs. The whole order costs less than $20. Being from a high cost of living area I’m actually laughing at how low the prices are. ( maybe I should really be crying about how overpriced everything is at home, but for now, it’s just wild to get food so cheap). The food is good, I attack the salad and eat most of the calzone. The pasta bake goes into the fridge for tomorrow.
I chatted with a prior year hiker who is doing a season-long written-for stay here. She’s from the UK and finished about 1800 miles of her hike before her issues eating enough food took her off the trail. She doesn’t have solutions, but it’s nice to know others with similar issues. She recommends I eat whatever sounds good and not worry about calories. I comment that this is how I end up with salads and turnips while others eat french fries. I keep telling myself I’ll figure this out. But honestly, I’m wondering if this needs to be a doctor’s visit one day. It does feel like something is wrong with my digestive system, I just don’t feel good after eating most of the time.
We also talked about how time I’m not worried about costs, but I know work-for-stay is bigger in the Whites where the huts are fairly expensive. She tells me that basically, you bargain your skills in exchange for what you want. I.e. a bed of x-type in exchange for y- y-hours of work a day or a week. I joke that tech support probably isn’t in too high of a demand in places like this. Then jump into the Fontana Dam printer story.
Eventually, hiker midnight (9 pm) is upon us and I head to bed. I’m writing my prior recap as a storm rolls in with heavy rain. I hear the rain and have an uncontrollable urge to hide my head under my quilt. Which I do. Apparently, I am still a bit sensitive about this rain/ storm issue. At least I’m staying here for another day so I can work this out of my system.
 
 

5/8 zero day at mountain harbor b&b

Today I woke up warm and dry in a bed in the hostel. I had breakfast and the pizza for dinner the night before so i opted to skip breakfast and stay in bed. I ended up being awake for 4-hours in the night, probably still a bit of lingering stress so i was glad to get a few extra hours of rest in the morning i started looking for coffee but was meet instead with two free draft beers. The restaurant was looking to change out a keg so they poured it empty and gave the excess to hikers. It was still around 10 am but nobody was complaining. It was a Gaelic Ale and surprisingly good. The hikers hung around outside the hostel drinking and having a good time. The dogs were playing in the yard, overall it was fun.
I found out that Multi had come by in the morning looking for a bed, but they were sold out so he moved on to the next hostel. Later that day Happy came by and was told the same thing, but Stitch was nearby and offered him to split the private room he had with Ruby the pupper. The room had two beds and was only separated from the hostel by a door. Scott also arrived today b with Chuck Norris. It had been raining and they’re both wet. Poor Chuck seems cold, they can’t get a bed either but take a tenting site. They arrive after a morning full of rain, but eventually the sun comes out and Scott gets the tent pitched. Chuck warms up and dries off and is up to his old antics. He’s a good boy.
Folks were real full from breakfast but I ate my left over pasta bake while playing cards against humanity until the restaurant opened at 4pm. Originally there were only three of us playing so I took to throwing in a random deck card each round once Scott showed up he was offered a seat in the game but refused. But since Chuck didn’t say no we started saying the deck card was Chuck’s card… Chuck was surprisingly good at playing. He won a lot. Since of his cards and pairings were amazing. It’s like he was trying.
Then it was 4pm and the hungry hikers attacked the restaurant ordering piles of burgers and fries. I had a Nashville hot chicken sandwich with a extra pickles. And chatted with trail mix who was working the register. We end up talking about how few women are on the trail, especially alone. I barely notice because I’m used to being the only woman in the room, having worked in male dominated professions. Every so often I look up and notice that I’m surrounded by guys everywhere I go, with the exception of couples. We also talk man or bear.
After eating my burger I have a brownie Sunday. It’s two layers of brownie, ice cream, and whipped cream with raspberry drizzle. I don’t normally eat desert, but it’s pretty good. During dinner Multi showed back up and ordered a burger, it comes out with layers of meat, cheese and bacon. The hikers take notice. It was nice to hang out and see that he found a place to stay.
At dinner I’m probably taking about my hiking trauma/ weather disaster, but it’s super fresh on my mind, the good news is that it’s starting to fade from my mind. I’m still not going back on those balds until the weather chills out, this likely means a return trip. But that’s ok, because I can get breakfast at the bNb again. I’ll be holding over this section for later. I hiked 4 miles with 925 feet of gain but missed 10 miles and 1500 feet of gain. It’s also a really pretty area with balds and great scenery so I really want to see it. ( just not with these weather reports).
Eventually it gets late, Multi goes back to his hostel, the rest of us all hang out for a bit longer. At one point somebody at the house offers to buy a round for the thru-hikers. I’m not interested in another beer, but I do accept a Gatorade.
I head upstairs, take another shower – omg, bliss, then go to bed. I can’t sleep yet, because my things are all over the bed so I must first pack then sleep. Instead of filling my pack I pack my liner bag and then put my pack in front of the fan to make sure it’s nice and dry. That’ll be important because I’ll probably be walking out in the rain. 🤔

5/9 – crossed 400 miles ( camped at 404.4)

I wake up before my alarm, which I had only set to be sure I didn’t miss breakfast. The breakfast at this BnB is known to be best on the trail. I get up and put myself together then impatiently pace until it’s time to head to the other building for breakfast. We can arrive at 7:45 for coffee and tea then at 8am they will present breakfast. The coffee is great. I’m sitting with Happy, Scott (& pupper Chuck), and Stitch. The hosts announce and describe the dishes they are serving including allergens and what contains meat ( Happy is vegetarian). Then we attack the food.

So many dishes from fruit plates to strudel, to sausage, to ham, to souffle, to French toast. They also have biscuits and sausage gravy. Most of us are leaving today but we still eat with the wreckless abandon of thru-hikers. We nearly all suffer for this oversight as we waddle out of town later this same day.
It’s raining in the morning and I’m debating an extra day. The hostel is sold out but somebody is canceling his night so i could grab his room if i act quick. I’m super apprehensive about leaving if there are storms but i also really want to hit the trail so i can get over this new anxiety about the weather.
I check the forecast and it reportedly will be clearing up around 10 or 11. I wait it out, but first I must pack and make sure all my devices are charged. I finish and weigh my pack it’s 27.5lbs. My food is about 7 of those pounds, soon it’ll be summer and I’ll be able to make things a bit lighter. I’m carrying too much food (as usual), almost everything in this bag left Erwin with me nearly a week ago.
 
I hang out with Scott and Chuck on the deck. Eventually it’s time to leave and i say goodbye, they’re tenting for another night. I give Chuck, the pupper, a few head pats and head out on my way.
In walk down the road to 19E then do another short section before emerging on to the road i just pasded while walking there, then i cross a bunch of streams before spending my day in what felt like an endless climb up wet middy terrain with lots of mountain springs inconveniently leaking water on top the trail. I can’t take a deep breath my stomach is too full. I creep along regreating my breakfast choices.
The day feels endless and it’s a humid soupy mess. I eventualy catch up with Happy and we walk and talk. Then about .5 miles from the blue blaze to Jones Falls Multi shows up. Multi must have left crazy late because he is a fast hiker and is usually far ahead of us. We stay close and end up all going to the falls at the same time. The recent rain means the falls are spectacular. High flow so much water movement and mist. I also find a really cool caterpillar that looks just look lichen. (Catocala ilia).
Multi goes ahead and I hang out with Happy as we finish the day’s hike. The hike is easier than it’s been but still we struggle more than we should. We were also learned about a treacherous water crossings from another hiker, which ends up not being the main river just a swollen tributary… dry feet are a myth!.
We hike together on and off until the final waterfall before camp. At that point I stop to fill up my water and talk to Too Easy as Happy presses on the 1000 feet to camp. I arrive and see some folks setting up tents up above, then I see Multi and Stitch ( and pupper Ruby) I can see a second floor that’s empty. I setup camp in the middle of the bottom. We’re the only ones down there which is weird because Happy should be ahead of me. I assume he’s setting up his tent. Occasionally i hear weird noises coming from the shelter but nobody is in it. I eventualy ask after Happy and he pops out of the third floot loft -‘princess suite’. I. Have to see this so I climb up to check out his sweet digs, but I’m glad I’m on the ground floor with the other guys and the dog.
For dinner I make a single pack of mac and cheese with extra cheese fand force that down my throat. I also eat some other snacks. I wish i could eat better, but oh well. My next task is hanging my food bag. I struggle to find a spot but manage to, this is particularly important since the guys gave me a hard time about a previous hang that was admittedly too close to the shelter, but options were limited. Today I found a great hang, 25 feet up 12+ from the trunk. I boasted about it on my return after the guys were joking that I hung my food on a terrible limb nearby that would be too low. Ultimately the branch I found turned out not to be great and it struggled to hold my food bag. It broke on the first attempt, fell off the edge of the second, but was good on the third. I was a bit concerned that the branch could break more in the night or a bear could accidently pull the food bag off the edge when trying to get it down. Making the hang a bit suboptimal but it survived till morning.
A few more hikers arrived and either joined us to eat then returned to their tents and a few took the middle floor of the shelter. I gave Ruby some love then we all went to sleep.
Today’s hike was 9.8 AT Mile, 2000 feet of gain. Over 10 miles with the blue spurs (side trails) etc. I really struggled and hope that tomorrow will be better.

 


5/10 – miles 404.4 to 413.8

Yesterday I was tired and hiking was hard, but today I woke up early with energy and left camp before 7:30 am. Everyone was asleep except Stitch and Ruby who had packed and left even earlier in the day. They were planning to go about 18 miles, I was only planning for 12-ish. My goal is to hit the boots off hostel tomorrow. (anything for a shower & Laundry,  right?).

 It’s a good day of hiking. I get to the first shelter around 1pm, just as an earlier group was leaving.  This is 9.8 miles and 2200-ish feet of gain.  They had stopped for lunch. I’m unexpectedly hungry, so I stop for lunch too. I drop my pack and walk the .1 trail down the side of the hill for water, then resummit. I take off my shoes to dry my wet feet and even set my shoes and insoles in the sun to dry off, I make a meal and sit while it rehydrates.  It’s a nice day so I’m planning to leave after lunch and head on to the next camp site.

A short time later Multifunction shows up. We hang out. The day changes, it’s now cloudy. Then i bring my shoes into the shelter just as the drizzle begins. The rain intensified and bring cold air.  I hide in the shelter in an increasing number of layers, eventually bringing out my trusty sleeping bag and sitting there wrapped in it. I reconsider my decision to leave.

Eventually the rain stops. Multi goes down to get water and offers to fill my bag too.  I had just filtered and refilled my bottles but if I’m staying I can use more.  While he’s down the hill i gather the materials to make fire. Everything is wet. I don’t usually struggle to make a fire but today it was a process.  Even the leaves wouldn’t light. I found some dry ones under the shelter and in a tree – but they had some dirt in them and also wouldn’t cooperate.  By this point my lighter isn’t cooperating either so I get my other one or use it.  I can get the leaves to catch but they burn out in about 1/2 a second which is before the next one catches.  I eventually resort to using dry shelter logbook paper such burns just long enough to get the a few leaves and ultimately the fire going. This whole time poor Multi is looking on trying to resist helping haha.  It was probably harder for him than me.

There is plenty of firewood around, so i spend the next 5+ hours just playing with the fire.  It’s a cold night, dropping to 40f. The fire feels great. So great that it’s actual problematic.  During by the fire warms up your front, but you don’t notice how cold your rear gets.  When you finally get into your sleeping bag. That extra cold you brought means you spend the next few hours cold. If i thought about it, I would have walked around a bit before heading to bed to warm the other 1/2 of my body up. But by the time I realized my failure it was too late.

Anyway, the campsite was full of people. This is the lead up to trail days in Damascus – a big thru- hiker party that lasts for a weekend and has sky 25,000 attendees, mostly in tent city, since the town isn’t big enough for this crowd.  Many camps (organized group) setup and offer free food, free gear repairs, laundry, etc.  There are also tons of vendors, lots pf gear to try and to buy. My original plan was to skip this fiasco, but I was encouraged by Dr. Dolitte and others to not skip it. It’ll also be nice to catch back up with the people I started with if they’re still on the trail.

By the time we get to Damascus (only 40 miles from me) only 40% of thru-hikers are left. Of these 5/8 will make it to Katahdin. Making it to Damascus is the first time for a thru-hiker that the odds are in your favor to finish. But it’s not just a force of will that will get you there.   People have hike ending injuries, they get Lyme’s or other illnesses and can’t continue, they run out of money, run out of time, or have family emergencies that call them off the trail. My biggest concern at this point is time.  I need to hike 11+ miles a day without a day off to get to Katahdin before it closes. I know I can put in pretty regular 15 mile days and the trail is actually starting to get a lot less strenuous. They day after Damascus people pick up the miles because the trail is a lot less steep. Most days were averaging 500feet or gain or loss per mile.  It’s dropping to 300ish. That said I have an emergency plan in mind.  If it looks like it’ll be close I’ll skip forward 2-300 miles, hike north,  then come back and finish that section.  It’s not ideal, but I’ll do what I have to do. 

So speaking of hiking I have a few more general updates. Today I told another thru-hiker with an injured leg that it was ok because he could rest it in Damascus, 70 miles away. This was a totally reasonable statement. What other activity could you possibly be doing where the suggestion of walking on an injury for 70 miles is totally ok. Also clearly we’ve moved into a point where the idea pf walking 70 miles sounds like an easy jaunt.

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Comments 6

  • Anna : May 23rd

    Great photos and riveting description of being caught in that thunderstorm. You are tough stuff!

    Reply
  • James Miller : May 28th

    Enjoy reading your posts. Hope you get reunited with Tara soon. Yall seem to make a good team!!! Good luck and God bless you with safety, especially after that storm.

    Reply
  • leah love : Jul 18th

    I miss your blogs! Hope all is well. ✨

    Reply
    • Caroline : Jul 21st

      Thank you for reading and sorry for the delay in posting. We upped our miles after Damascus and I have time to write, but not to format and post my updates for the Trek – for now, I am posting them to Facebook. Anyway, I promise after I summit Katahdin I’ll come back and post all the days I missed. I’m also working on a post to talk about what I learned in the first half of this thru-hike. Hopefully, that’ll be up within the week.

      For now, the update is that at trail days, I found out I tore my plantar fascia and got a steroid injection to the sole of my foot. It still hurt for almost two months, but I hiked anyway.

      I reunited with Flamethrower in Waynesboro, Virginia, and she joined the tramily.

      We got to Harpers on the 4th of July, after practically death marching through the Shenandoahs with back-to-back 20s and back-to-back-to-back 18/19s in the insane heat.

      The heat plus the humidity plus rocks and long water carries of PA were proving dangerous. After multiple bouts with heat exhaustion, we needed to figure something out. So Flamethrower and I made a hard decision and skipped up from the half-gallon challenge to the Delaware Water Gap. We’ll come back for PA later. And my trail family will probably catch us in a few weeks.

      We’re heading north, already passed through my home state of NJ, where we deli and platinum blazed to fill our bellies and avoid the overnight lows that were often still in the mid-70s. Now we’re working our way through unexpectedly difficult New York. Less than 800 miles to go to Katahdin! (At 15 miles a day with no zeros, we’ll be there in less than 2 months). This feels very doable.

      I’m at a point where I feel like finishing isn’t an IF as long as there are no injuries or illnesses.

      Again, sorry about making y’all wait to read about the rest of the journey. And hopefully, I’ll get that midway post up before I hit 1500 miles. 🙂

      Reply
  • Sara G : Jul 19th

    The suspense is killing us! Are you still on trail? Hope you write an update post soon!

    Reply
    • Caroline : Jul 21st

      Thank you for reading and sorry for the delay in posting. We upped our miles after Damascus and I have time to write, but not to format and post my updates for the Trek – for now, I am posting them to Facebook. Anyway, I promise after I summit Katahdin I’ll come back and post all the days I missed. I’m also working on a post to talk about what I learned in the first half of this thru-hike. Hopefully, that’ll be up within the week.

      For now, the update is that at trail days, I found out I tore my plantar fascia and got a steroid injection to the sole of my foot. It still hurt for almost two months, but I hiked anyway.

      I reunited with Flamethrower in Waynesboro, Virginia, and she joined the tramily.

      We got to Harpers on the 4th of July, after practically death marching through the Shenandoahs with back-to-back 20s and back-to-back-to-back 18/19s in the insane heat.

      The heat plus the humidity plus rocks and long water carries of PA were proving dangerous. After multiple bouts with heat exhaustion, we needed to figure something out. So Flamethrower and I made a hard decision and skipped up from the half-gallon challenge to the Delaware Water Gap. We’ll come back for PA later. And my trail family will probably catch us in a few weeks.

      We’re heading north, alreaady passed through my home state of NJ, where we deli and platinum blazed to fill our bellies and avoid the overnight lows that were often still in the mid-70s. Now we’re working our way through unexpectedly difficult New York. Less than 800 miles to go to Katahdin! (At 15 miles a day with no zeros, we’ll be there in less than 2 months). This feels very doable.

      I’m at a point where I feel like finishing isn’t an IF as long as there are no injuries or illnesses.

      Again, sorry about making y’all wait to read about the rest of the journey. And hopefully, I’ll get that midway post up before I hit 1500 miles. 🙂

      Reply

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