Day 107 – 112 | Over the Whites and into Maine

Day 107 1848.9 – 1862.9 (14)

It didn’t rain overnight at Ethan’s Pond Shelter, it felt weird packing up a dry tent. After breaking camp, I had breakfast with a large crew who were all getting picked up by one of the hikers local friends. They said Putt Putt set off earlier in the morning. I hiked solo down the three miles to Crawford Notch, are some grapes left by the trailhead, and started up the climb to the Presidential mountains. 

I had intermittent views between clouds as I gained the ridge. I made it to Mizpah Hut by 1. Putt Putt I and discussed Mizpah as a stopping point since there isnt camping after it for 12 miles. The other riskier option was to push on to Lake of the clouds hut, hope for a work for stay or stay in the “Dungeon”.

Work for stay is offered to a few thru hikers each night at each Hut in the Whites. You exchange some labor for leftovers and to sleep in the common area. The dungeon is an emergency winter shelter in the basement of the Lake of the clouds hut with only 6 wooden bunks. 

I decided to push on, the weather was good and I assumed Putt Putt was ahead. The weather turned sour and I was in and out of rain and clouds for the 5 miles traverse, but I made it to the hut by 3:40. (They give the wfs to the people that arrive nearest to 4:00)

I got the gig, and elected the option of hosting a q&a session about thru hiking to the other guests. The session was easy and the left overs were delicious. With cell phone signal, I found out that Putt Putt was behind me and was back at Mizpah Hut. 

Day 108 1862.9 – 1877.8 (14.9)

Keeping a close eye on the weather forecast, it was supposed to be clear in the morning. I didn’t wait around for breakfast leftovers in favor of hiking in good weather. I summited Mt. Washington by 7:30, the highest peak in the Whites that also has a road, tourist train, concession stand, and telescope. 

Fortunately I had the place to myself since buying opened till 9. I hung out for a bit and started to head down the mountain to continue the traverse. 

The traverse was beautiful, it was a bit hazy in the morning from distant wildfire smoke, and turned cloudy and rainy as the afternoon came around. I stopped at Madison Spring Hut for lunch of soup, pastries, and pop tarts. 

After Mt Madison the trail turned into large boulder scree fields, challenging terrain. After finally reaching tree line the decent dropped precipitously. 

My headphones had stopped charging a week or two ago, and without music, podcasts, or audiobooks I was going a bit crazy. I had planned to pick up a new pair in Gorham so I decided to get all the way into town. At the Hostel Gandalf was there, he came into town from the next road up 20 miles ahead. 

I resupplied for 5 days, leaving 3 days at the hostel with the plan to come back into town after the Wildcats.

Day 109 1877.8 – 1890 (12.2)

I caught the shuttle back to the trail and was there by 8:00. Putt Putt was at the lodge at the trailhead grabbing breakfast. He also had the infamous Brickie, a yellow, 3.8 lbs. brick that had been carried from Georgia. He had accepted the honor and burdon of being the next person to carry Brickie. 

We set out, up the Wildcats, the steepest North Bound climb on the AT. At points climbing at a rate of 2,200 ft / mile. It was more reminiscent of mountaineering for me than of hiking. 

We covered nearly 10,000 ft of assent and decent in 13 miles before camping at Imp Shelter. It was supposed to continue to rain, so Putt Putt and I stayed in the shelter. 

Day 110 1890 – 1899 (9) 

Putt Putts knee was bothering him, so I took the opportunity to help and have the honor of carrying Brickie. The 8 miles down were a respectively easier than the way up. 

We made it to Highway 2 by 11, hitched a ride back to the hostel. It was supposed to rain more that night so I elected to get a bed rather than pitch a tent in the yard. 

Putt Putt and I walked to the all you can eat Asian buffet for 1st lunch, 2nd lunch, and dinner. 

Day 111 1899 – 1916 (17)

Putt Putt’s knee was bothering him significantly, so he elected to stay in town that morning. Later in the week via text I found out he injured his knee enough that he needed to get off trail. 

The hostel offers ride back to the trail, with the weather predictions, I was the only hiker heading out that day. 

It was wet, I was exhausted from climbing 6,500+ ft up and ~4,000 ft down. I started to get so tired I was misstepping and took quite a few falls. It takes 5,000,000+ steps to compete the AT; and only 1 wrong one to end the trip or worse. 

At the top of Mt. Success, just before the Maine border I wasn’t feeling very successful. I finally got to the Carlo Col shelter where 5 other hikers had already hunkered in, I joined them in the shelter to avoid the rain. 

Day 112 1916 – 1930 (14)

In the morning, I passed off Brickie to Phoenix. I initially wanted to take it through the famous Mahoosuc Notch, the hardest mile of the AT; but my knees were hurting and with my falls yesterday I was eager to get rid of it. 

3.8 lbs lighter I climbed over Goose Eye peaks. 5 miles into the day I stopped at Full Goose shelter, where Phoenix and Chipmunk were. We ate a cold 2nd breakfast shivering and trying to warm up. I pined for a hot shower and considered pushing into Bethel for the evening. 

I set off behind Chipmunk, over the mountain and down into the Notch. The Notch is bouldering for about a mile. Climbing over, under, through, between, and any other preposition you may choose. It took me a little over an hour and I made it out unscathed almost. As the trail reverted back to well a trail, I stepped on a slippery root falling on my side as gashing my hand. Slightly shocked I brushed it off and did the only thing to do on a cold rainy day; I hiked on. 

The hike was steep, climbing 1,600 ft in 1.3 miles to the top of Old Spec. At the top, I took a break to snack in the rain and the clouds. Phoenix caught up and we decided we would split a hotel in Bethel. We shortly caught up to Chipmunk and he joined in our plan. 

The descent was also grueling, but we had town to look forward to. When we made it to Grafton Notch (the road to town); there was a cluster of people at the trailhead. A rescue team was coordinating a rescue for someone who broke their ankle and I was hypothermic on the trail North of us. It was a sobering reminder. 

We had arranged a shuttle driver to take us into town at the top of the mountain. When we made it to the hotel, we were promptly informed that most of the town had lost power. A warm shower in the dark was just fine.