Day 98 – 106 | Into New Hampshire and the White Mountains

Day 98: 1732.8 – 1749.2 (16.4 miles)

Today was largely spent hiking solo through the Vermont hills, navigating steep ascents and descents on my way to Hanover, New Hampshire, and the renowned White Mountains. The day was uneventful until I reached West Hartford, where I stumbled upon a farmers market. I was perfectly timed to enjoy some Indian food and cookies with other hikers. After spending a few hours there, I continued hiking with Gandalf the Red and Birdy to the Happy Hill Shelter.

Birdy and I reminisced about what we’ll miss about trail life as the end draws nearer with only two states left. We reflected on the freedom to pee anywhere, the immersion in nature, the constant exercise, the tangible progress towards a concrete goal, the ability to eat anything, syncing our sleep schedules with the sun, carrying everything we need, the simplicity of focusing solely on food and water, and, most importantly, the sense of community.

That night, Gandalf arranged for us to stay with a trail angel in Norwich (just outside Hanover), along with Fresh, Talley Joe, and Putt Putt.

Day 99: 1749.2 – 1755 (5.8 miles)

Talley Joe, Fresh, and Putt Putt joined us in the morning. We met Jenny, the trail angel, who showed us to our accommodations and explained the house rules. We then headed to the Dartmouth dining hall, which offers a buffet for thru-hikers. The food was both delicious and plentiful.

My insoles had worn out, so I accompanied Gandalf on a three-bus journey to a nearby outfitter to get replacements. I look forward to rejoining society and the freedom of movement it brings. With new socks and insoles in hand, we made our way back to Jenny’s house.

Day 100: 1755 – 1766 (11 miles)

In the morning, we washed linens for the next set of hikers before grabbing a late breakfast at Lou’s. Gandalf the Red and I left town around noon, and New Hampshire welcomed us with a steep ascent and rain. That evening, Gandalf pressed on to cover more miles while Fresh, Ketchup (a new acquaintance), Talley Joe, and Putt Putt stayed in the shelter to avoid the downpour.

Day 101: 1766 – 1783.7 (17.7 miles)

Fresh and Talley Joe decided to slow their pace, so I hiked solo for most of the day. Debbie, the tropical storm, threatened with 1-2 inches of rain. I moved quickly, hoping to beat the storm, and reached Hexacube Shelter just as it began to rain. The shelter, named for its hexagonal shape on Mount Cube, was inefficient for accommodating hikers, but we managed to fit 12 by using a tent to block the rain.

The storm hit hard, causing some trees to fall and scaring off a hiker who had a close call. Despite the chaos, I stayed dry and weathered the night unscathed.

Day 102: 1783.7 – 1798.3 (14.6 miles)

The morning was soggy, with the trail resembling a giant puddle. Despite the storm’s aftermath, Putt Putt and I hiked together, discussing life, love, future technologies, and dancing. We arrived at Hiker Welcome Hostel by 3 PM, where a trail angel provided burgers and hot dogs. I debated hiking on but chose to stay due to the forecasted rain. Miss Janet, a well-known trail angel who follows the bubble of hikers, took us to a gas station for a mini resupply.

Day 103: 1798.3 – 1815.3 (17 miles)

The day began with the climb up Mt. Moosilauke, a steady ascent of 1,000 – 1,200 feet per mile, reaching 4,800 feet by 11 AM. The summit offered panoramic 360° views, an alpine environment, and even a beer from a day hiker. The descent was steep, dropping 1,617 feet in a mile, following a creek with waterfalls that made the rocks slick.

After the descent, we encountered some trail magic with fruit and sodas. Putt Putt and I then tackled Mt. Wolf, which proved more challenging than anticipated with its boulders, roots, and mud pits. Exhausted, I reached Eliza Brook Shelter, where I pitched my tent among 20 other hikers, enduring more rain that night.

Day 104: 1815.3 – 1824.1 (8.8 miles)

The day began with a steep climb up South Kinsman Mountain, ascending 2,000 feet in 2.5 miles. Fatigued from the previous day, I pushed through. We then descended approximately 3,000 feet over 6 miles to Interstate 93 and walked an additional mile to the Flume Gorge visitor center parking lot. After a 30-minute wait in the rain, we hitched a ride to The Notch Hostel.

I picked up new shoes from the post office, borrowed a bike from the hostel, and rode 1.5 miles before it closed. I resupplied and had dinner in town before biking back to the hostel. Town chores always seem to take more time than expected.

Day 105: 1824.1 – 1834.5 (10.4 miles)

The hostel offered a 7:20 AM shuttle to the trailhead. The day promised a steep climb and the famous Franconia Ridge. The ascent was challenging, especially the 2,000 feet over 1.5 miles. We took advantage of a gap in the clouds to bag Mt. Liberty. The trail then followed the ridge, which was obscured by clouds and sustained 20 mph winds. We finally reached Mt. Garfield and camped at the AMC campsite near Garfield Shelter.

Day 106: 1834.5 – 1848.9 (14.5 miles)

We began with a steep descent from Mt. Garfield, followed by a ridge walk to Galehead Hut, operated by the Appalachian Mountain Club. We enjoyed a second breakfast and coffee before climbing to South Twin Mountain and continuing along the ridge to Mt. Guyot. Putt Putt and I had lunch there and then bagged Zealand Mountain.

The descent from Zealand Mountain to Zealand Falls Hut was steep. At the hut, a group of hikers played the Appalachian Trail board game—though I didn’t win. After the hut, the trail flattened out, and I took a side trail to Thoreau Falls. I spent time there with Hell Bender, Night Watch, and BiBo before heading to Ethan Pond for a sunset dinner and camp.