Hell Of A Hike
When I say “Hell Of A Hike” I don’t mean that it was really cool or unique or that it was tough. I mean it was hell. I was hiking in hell. I was hiking through rocksylvania during the heat wave and had a deadline to reach.
The Elements Of Hell
I mentioned that I was in rocksylvania, that there was a heat wave and that I had a deadline. That isn’t very descriptive. Let me explain.
Rocksylvania
For those who aren’t aware, rocksylvania refers to the northern section of Pennsylvania. It is considered to be the worst part of the trail by the grand majority of the thru hiking community. I assume you can guess what makes it so dreadful. The rocks. They are everywhere. There are small rocks that poke their way through the trail. Those are fun because they pierce your feet and are great to roll your ankles on! There are also big boulders that you have to navigate. They require concentration, to not fall but also to stay on trail. It can be very easy to lose the trail in a boulder field. You are also doing a lot of big steps up with your pack. Your poles become useless on the rocks as well. I will say though that boulder fields are the slowest but most fun type of rock on trail. With the right attitude, its a game!
The absolute worst rocks are the ones in the middle of those listed above. They often don’t leave any room for earth for you to walk along but they also aren’t large enough to feel secure either. You do what you can to bounce between the rocks but its dangerous and slow moving and painful. It is infuriating to be on one of the flattest stretches of the trail and to move slower then you do with elevation change!
To make the trail even more dangerous there is the water situation. Pennsylvania follows the ridge the entire way and is mostly flat on top. This means that the water situation is already dire. There are 20 mile water carrys and there isn’t even water promised at the end of that. Add in the heat wave and it becomes life and death. Water is far between to begin with and is only made worse when most sources listed have comments that the source is dry.
Thank you so much to the trail angels leaving water caches at various roads and locations on trail. You are true heros. The water you leave behind is far better then any sweet treat that we may hope to receive. You are providing us with what we need to stay safe, to keep moving. I would have been in a far worse state if it weren’t for the help you have provided us dehydrated hikers!
The Heat Wave
The heat wave moved in fast and without warning. We underestimated the heat and what backpacking would feel like in this environment. It was horrible. By noon the air was hot and sticky, often in the early to mid 90s. By 4pm you have reached the hottest part of the day, usually mid to high 90s. It wasn’t unusual for the weather channel to report that it was 97 degrees outside but felt like 101. You look forward to night, hoping for relief. The nights were often in the 70s or even the 80s. That is a poor excuse for relief. You would sleep as close to naked as you could and still be sweating.
In order to try and save ourselves we would hike early in the morning. Wake up at 2:30 to start hiking at 3:30. The goal is to get to camp before the heat truly sets in. When you would get to camp you would do what you could to cool off but you’re mostly trying to stay in the shade and wait out the worst of the heat. Sleep deprivation was a huge side effect of the heat wave. You need to hike at night to beat the heat but it was also difficult to sleep during the day. You would have to sacrifice sleep to get your miles in but the miles were so tough and only made tougher with less sleep. It was a brutal cycle that we never seemed to beat. Sometimes you just have to tough it out.
Now let’s talk about the bugs. They are abundant, persistent and wickedly accurate when it comes to hitting their targets. The targets being your eyes, nose and mouth. I wore a bug net for the majority of the heat wave. I was hotter as a result and the little wind we had was unable to reach my face but it was necessary. There were times that there were 20 gnats swarming my face. I could clap and drop 4 at once. The bugs were a huge test of my patience and I have worked with kids. Worked with kids in the outdoors.
My Deadline
The best and safest way to navigate this heat wave would have been to sit it out. There were several people waiting out the heat from hotel rooms and hostels. I would have loved to do this. I really honestly would have, had it not been for my deadline. I am visiting home for a few days over the 4th of July. I have a mile goal to reach for transport and unfortunately it required a 18 mile average over 3 weeks. The heat wave being right in the middle. I wouldn’t have made it to my goal had I stopped so I hiked on. Hiked on through hell.
It Is Only Miserable
This is my mantra. It was surely my mantra during the heat wave. I reminded myself that it was indeed doable. I would make it to my destination. I would be ok. The rocks would end and the temperature would go back down. I didn’t come here for an easy experience and I certainly haven’t received one. I am comfortable being uncomfortable. I can and will make it through. All in all it isn’t that hard, it isn’t going to break me.
It is only miserable.
I can handle that.
With that being said it is important to maintain your safety. Make sure you are caring for yourself and that you are doing what you need to do to make sure you can get through it. Whether you carry 10 pounds of water or you spend the cash to wait out the heat in a hotel room. It is very easy to push yourself too hard. Please be aware of the signs and symptoms of heat exhaustion, heat stroke and hyponatremia. Take care of yourself and others. That is how you make it to Katahdin.
My name is Alex Tucker and I am fully invested in this endeavor. I plan to be consistent on this platform but if you would like to know more about me and my time on the trail you can follow me on Instagram @nobo.nomad !
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Comments 3
Well, Monica already said we are doing that section early on in the year! Neither of us love the 90s when hiking. But a thru hiker hikes on. Where as a section hiker can wait it out or simply hike earlier!
You and your Tramily is doing amazing. We love reading your posts on Here as well as the pictures you share. Hope you have a great visit with family and hopefully this heat wave breaks for the remaining miles you have left.
Hi Alexis
Did this section and on into NY/CT during this time frame. Your description of the conditions and terrain is spot on and exactly my thoughts. Was probably most difficult terrain and conditions so far for me. Keep up the good work.
Best of luck with your journey to Katahdin!
Doublepack
Hi Alexis –
My daughter is also hiking the AT . Trailname Newt. She just completed the gnarly part you described and continues to roast alive but push on. If you’ve ever heard that song lyric – if you’re going through hell keep on going …you can use it to keep pushing on. I admire your grit and determination. Maybe you will meet up with my girl ! Good luck and you got it !!