Pennsylvania Brought Me Back to the Present Moment (Plus, 100 Days!!)

In no other section of trail have I felt as present as I did in Pennsylvania.

Being fully engaged with the present moment doesn’t always feel profound or fun or awe-inspiring. Sometimes it feels like pretty awful stomach cramping from accidentally drinking a pint of raw chocolate milk, or the sensation of chafing where there really should not be chafing. Other times it’s the humdrum of placing every footfall with intention over technical, rocky trail for hours on end. It’s the way those sharp little rocks jab through the bottoms of my shoes, saying, “Hey! Pay attention! Come back to now!”

This presence can feel adventurous, too. Like when Digit and I had to look for rattlesnakes and copperheads on every hand and foot hold climbing out of Lehigh Gap, then proceeded to hike after sunset to reach camp for the night.

Pennsylvania offered expansive vistas, rolling farmland, lovely continuous ridge line, brand new trail (!), and lots of soft terrain too.

I still complained about the rocks to my friends in moments of frustration, but I’m grateful for Pennsylvania: It made me reflect on my “whys,” spend some quality time with myself, and slow down. What’s the hurry?

Here’s a more in-depth description of my week:

Day 94: Hertline Campsite & Creek to Tent Site at 1224.9

It’s amazing the memories that resurface when you swim through mind soup for hours on end every single day. I wonder which ones from the AT will bubble up when I’m off trail because I’ve been having this feeling of missing moments, people, and places all while I’m experiencing them. It feels like I’m living in a world of nostalgia.

It was 4:42am when the birds started singing for the day. Or, at least, that’s when they grew loud enough to wake me up.

After a short climb out of the creekside area we’d camped near, it was pretty flat for most of the day until Digit and I descended into Port Clinton. We slowly made our way down the steep mountainside into town and I kept telling myself that it was just good practice for the Whites.

Though the waitress was friendly and the town’s restaurant was casual, the signs posted by the door saying, “no muddy boots” and “come showered” were slightly off-putting. But hey, we must’ve been clean enough!

During our meal, different versions of “My Way” played every few minutes. Whoever had the aux cord must’ve really liked that song. We do too, though, so it’s okay.

On our way out, the bartender filled up all of our bottles with ice cold water — what a treat! Over dinner, we’d decided to start hiking out of Port Clinton tonight, but were super reluctant to go when the time actually came. I suggested camping at the first tent spot we passed on our hike out of town, but that spot didn’t actually materialize until we were all the way back at ridgeline.

At least we won’t have to hike up the mountain first thing in the morning.

Day 95: Tent Site at 1224.9 to Lookout Hostel

Rocksylvania started in earnest today, I’d say. The increments of soft, flat trail between rocky sections are getting smaller and smaller, so I’m spending most of my time staring down at my feet. It’s kind of frustrating at times. But here I am. And occasionally, we’re treated to a smooth, winding forest road.

Digit and I stopped at the Lookout Hostel to pick up his resupply package, and ended up showering and tenting in the hostel’s yard. The road noise has been pretty intense all day, but the shower was nice and the view into the valley below was spectacular.

I also got to catch up with Chickadee, a hiker who I’d met down in the Smokies, and Gold, a hiker I met in Virginia!

Day 96: Lookout Hostel to Tent Site at 1265.8

0/10 do not recommend sleeping near a busy road (even if you’re at a hostel). It was so loud and I don’t know if I slept at all. Why do I continue to make this mistake?

Somewhat grumpily, I started my day hiking behind a man who smelled freshly shampooed and laundered. Surely he must be a day hiker if he’s walking around these woods smelling warm like vanilla with a hint of jasmine.

At some point I passed by Smells Good (the name I’d given the man in my head) and hiked along panoramic ridgeline for a while. He caught up to me as I was somewhat hesitantly traversing Knife’s Edge and I learned Smells Good’s name is actually Still At It. He’s 76 and section hiking the trail. At one point, he stopped me to take my picture, and said, “You look like the real deal!”

Shoutout to Still At It for kindly taking this picture of me on Knife’s Edge! This was just after I almost lost a trekking pole to the mountain, but luckily it didn’t fall too far and I could crawl down to reach it. Relief.

It’s all in the little things for me today. I notice that the bushes are ripe with blueberries and the trail is lined with little dots of red strawberries. When Digit and I stop at the last water source before a long carry, we watched a chickadee and a warbler fly around one another almost like they were friends.

We decide to climb out of the infamous Lehigh Gap during golden hour to avoid having to do it in the hot morning sun. I’ve been nervous about this one for a couple weeks now. Classic Hummingbird, fearmongering herself. Parts of the climb were challenging, but overall, it was doable and fun! I was, however, thankful for my pretty rudimentary rock climbing skills.

An hour or so after making it up to the ridgeline past Lehigh Gap, Digit and I crossed a fire road where we decided to stop and make dinner. I finally got to try the spicy refried beans and rice that Natalie gave me! I put the mixture in tortillas and added Fritos. It’s all about balance?

With the sun setting fast, Digit and I contemplated camping right on the fire road, but instead ended up walking down the road for about a mile and a half until it met back up with the trail. As night settled in around us, we finally turned on our headlamps until we reached our tent spot for the night.

I built my little home on a bed of dried pine needles.

Took this the next morning once I was all packed up for the day

Day 97: Tent Site at 1265.8 to Wind Gap

Looking at your feet all day can be hard on your emotions.

But I’ve decided that Rocksylvania isn’t as bad as “they” make it out to be. And once we’ve experienced the whole range, size, and difficulty of PA-style rocks, the stuff that used to be annoying at the beginning of the state is sometimes a welcome reprieve by the time you’re nearly finished with it.

Two highlights:

1. A water cache near a trailhead after a long carry. Thank you, trail water angels!

2. Trail magic from Wood Booger and Four Legs — total strangers who happened to arrive at the same time on a random dirt road by the AT.

But the biggest highlight of my day was seeing my mom and sister at the end of it.

Day 98: Wind Gap to Delaware Water Gap 

My mom drove my sister and me to the trailhead in Wind Gap, where we started up a hill. Right away, we ran into Digit and Chickadee and leapfrogged with them all day.

Sydney, my sister, is a rockstar. Today was yet another rocky one, and even though her hip flexor started bothering her halfway through the day, Syd kept a great pace and attitude for ~15-16 miles! It meant a lot that she could be here to hike the Appalachian Trail with me. 

Sydney aka Squid

Tightly-packed rhododendron trees hugged the steep winding trail down Mt. Minsi — it reminded me of Georgia.

My mom met us at the AT parking lot in Delaware Water Gap, cheering us on as we finished hiking Pennsylvania together.

On our way to the Airbnb, we grabbed dinner and drinks, then ate some well-deserved ice cream. I was so happy to be squeezed between my mom and sister, and look forward to my double zero ahead!

Day 99 & 100: Zeros in Delaware Water Gap

My Hyperlite baby’s first bath!

What a luxury to have two rest days in a row! It meant I got to spread out my “chores,” like resupplying and gear maintenance. I did some writing, took lots of naps, and ate snacks all day. Together, my mom, sister, and I went to Deer Head Inn for a night of jazz and delicious desserts. We also rearranged the living room so we could all watch movies on the big TV there. We checked off The Idea of You, Wonder, and  The Boys in the Boat. 

On Day 100, my friend Bryce came to Del Water Gap for the night so he could drive me to where I left off when I hiked the New Jersey portion of the AT back in April. Along with my family, we made dinner, played cards, and enjoyed our last night in Pennsylvania. Basking in togetherness.

Tomorrow, I’m going to cross into New York, the state I called home for nearly seven years. I’m curious how it will feel to reach that milestone! Onward.