Is a Bench Outside a Grocery Store an Appropriate Place for a Nap?: Day 34 – 38 on the Appalachian Trail

Another blog!? So quick!? Oh yeah! 

Day 34: Uncle Johnny’s in Erwin, TN (344.5) to Curly Maple Gap Shelter (348.8)

For some reason I did not sleep at all. I was so all night, tossing and turning, stressing that I wasn’t already asleep. By morning I was just cranky and totally not prepared for the day.

I tried my best to turn it around early. I got a big delicious coffee that I ordered wrong. The local spot had a wonderful breakfasy menu.. unless you’re vegan. Thankfully, the wonderful barista remade my drink even though it was my own fault and I walked to Dunkin Donuts for some food.

The next task on the list was resupply at the grocery store. Honestly, in the real world (or the matrix as we sometimes call it), even when I’m in a good mood, I can’t stand grocery shopping. I get so bored and can’t keep myself organized. When I’m tired, it simply isn’t going to happen. So, I bought maybe one thing and decided I’d just figure it out later. A nap on the swinging bench outside sounded a lot more appealing than any food.

My next task was to look at the shoes at the outfitter that is now part of the hostel. I knew my Altras were ready to quit on me. They already made my Achilles hurt so bad I could barely sleep and I dreaded putting them on in the morning. Unfortunately, my exhausted brain, again, said “figure it out later,” and I quickly gave up looking at shoes.

While the hostel is rebuilt and open and some local businesses are back, much of the community needs help getting back on their feet. Miss Janet, an iconic trail angel from this area, has a wonderful list of resources on her site for helping out towns along the AT – ThePeoplearetheTrail.org – if you’re able to help.

A bridge that was part of the Appalachian Trail was completely destroyed by the storm. Thankfully, the ATC hired a ferry to help hikers across the dangerous river and save us an also dangerous road walk.

I packed out one of the few things I bought at the store – vegan nuggets – and hiked on, still cranky and tired. Thankfully, the folks I was hiking with knew how to help. Tagless asked everyone to say something they were greatful for in that moment. When my turn came, I couldn’t stop listing things! From the overwhelming support of my family back home to the tiny joys of seeing a snail on the trail. I finally felt like myself again.

I wasn’t the only one that was totally exhausted so when the idea came up to stop early everyone agreed. The crew attempted to play another round of DnD, but snoring broke out and the day was done. 

Day 35: Curly Maple Gap Shelter (348.8) to Tentsite 2 miles into Detour (362.6)

After finally resting, I was ready to go! The fact I had very little food to get me through the next couple days was looming in the back of my mind, but there wasn’t much I could do. And I still had candy, so I was fine!

The first long break of the day was at Beauty Spot. I had one of my few snacks and took the time to lay out my Tyvek ground sheet and really relax.

 

Later in the day, I reached the Unaka Mountain area and the pine forest was absolutely stunning. So much so, I took another break and put my very sore feet up!

I entered the detoured section of the AT next. The damage along the trail has been humbling. Hundreds of large trees blown down like matchsticks, laying directly along the trail. The amount of manpower it took to clear even the small path through these areas is something I can barely fathom. Thank you to all the community members, volunteers, and fellow hikers that made a thru hike possible this year.

Thanks to the detailed FarOut comments from the famous Ice Man, we were able to find a great campsite along the detour. I had dinner, set up camp, and watched the now traditional two episodes of King of the Hill.

Day 36: Campsite along Detour (362.6) to Carvers Gap Stealth Site (380.8)

There’s probably one million ways to actually hike the AT. Some people do it in sections over multiple years. Hikers can go NoBo (north-bound) or SoBo (south-bound). More and more each year do a flip-flop for reasons like time crunches, weather, less impact on the trail. Some love a shortcut, a road walk, or taking a trail that used to be part of the AT – retro-blazing. There’s even a couple opportunities to get in the water adjacent to the trail and paddle, known as aqua-blazing.

And then some are purists. Those who walk every white blaze to white blaze. In fact, there’s probably a thousand ways to even be a purist. It’s really up to you at the end of the hike. What do you need to do to look back and feel you accomplished what you came for.

At this point in my hike, I’m a single way, every white blaze, no slack-packing, purist.

But today, I had to make a choice: take a very steep, very slippery climb up and down in rain or road walk. I road-walked. This climb was already part of the detour and I felt okay making my own call here. I was already off the AT. So take my purist card if you will but I believe we all hike our own hike.

After the tough decision was made and the detour was finished, I experienced an AT thru-hike cannon event! I saw the Red Efts!

These little juvenile newts are iconic on the trail! They come out in the rain and speckled the ground like confetti! I was terrified of stepping on one so I took my time, spotting more and more with each step!

For one of the first times on trail, I also had enough service to call my grandmother and dad. The support I have from home is incredible. I cried a bit about how bad my feet were hurting and my grandmother reminded me just how stubborn I am and that sore feet would not take me out of this. I continued on with renewed energy.

There was an impending storm coming and I still had to get down Roan Mountain. The shelter at the top of the mountain is closed so I was aiming for Carvers Gap.

I stopped to check out the Cloudland Hotel ruins. What used to be a popular resort, built in the 1880s, is now large open space with some evidence of foundations. I took a quick break to put my feet up before barreling down Roan Mountain to be done for the day!

Thanks to the hikers that came before me and the clear directions they left on FarOut, I was able to find a great, large campsite. Even better – it was blocked from the wind and had a creek running right past it for water.

Two of my favorite hikers, and fellow Trek bloggers – Skip and Groovy, joined us. After a small, non-explosive incident with another hikers stove, we all crawled into tents and slept through the storm.

Day 37: Stealthsite at Carvers Gap (380.8) to US 19E and Mountain Harbour B&B (395.6)

I woke up so ready to tackle the day (read: get to a place with food because I’m so hungry and didn’t buy food in Erwin)! I packed up and walked back to the trailhead to use the pit toilet there and spotted my first deer of the trail!

I hear the Roan Highlands are absolutely stunning! I only hear that because fog quickly rolled in before I even climbed the first climb. 

With very little as far as views, the magnetic pull of a place with real food was even stronger! Thankfully, my tramily shared some snacks with me no matter how much I protested, but rumor on the trail was Mountain Harbour B&B has a vegan sandwich! 

I basically ran the whole way there.

I did stop quickly to snap a couple photos of the fog I was stomping through. It wasn’t quite raining but the air was so wet.

I finished North Carolina for the last time, snapped a quick photo, and again was zooming toward US-19E!

I ran into the B&B at 2:00 pm and found out the kitchen didn’t open until 4:00. I waited a couple days though, so I could wait two more hours.

I asked around about getting a shuttle somewhere for new shoes and quickly learned that would be pretty impossible (or way too expensive!)

As I patiently waited for the kitchen to open, I enjoyed sitting around the fire with some other hikers. The B&B’s hostel was ruined by Helene and they are building a new one. It was sad to hear about the loss of the old barn but it sounded like the folks here have some awesome stuff coming!

Just before the kitchen opened the wildest thing happened! Trailmix approached me and my tramily. Someone was willing to pay for part of one of the rooms in the main house as trail magic and since we literally ran here, we were first on the list! I explained that my friend Chef was missing his college graduation ceremony that weekend to be here with us. We graciously and excitedly accepted the room and the food was even more delicious knowing we had a real bed, private bathroom, and jacuzzi tub to enjoy after. Thank you so much, John, for the trail magic!

To top it all off, Shannon let me know she would have vegan options at breakfast the next day! According to comments on FarOut, Mountain Harbour B&B has the best breakfast on the entire trail! 

I went to bed overflowing with gratitude. A real meal, new friends, a comfortable bed, and breakfast waiting in the morning. Trail magic is truly magical.

Day 38: Mountain Harbour B&B (395.6) to Mountaineer Falls Shelter (404.4)

A commenter on FarOut said something like, they’d never shower or sleep in a real bed again if it meant they could have the Mountain Harbour B&B breakfast everyday. I get it. 

Shannon explained the whole spread to us and indicated to me which dishes were vegan. I had two plates full of fresh made deliciousness that I may dream of for the rest of my life!

Before hitting the trail, I hitch hiked to the Dollar General for some top secret supplies for a top secret celebration. Also, I got food because I never want to be hungry on trail again!

As we trekked on we hit the 400 miles marker! Every single one of these is so exciting at this point.

Next stop was a waterfall adventure. I soaked my feet and had a snack before carefully climbing up to the top and taking it all in.

I stopped along the river to look at some tadpoles, too. I didn’t spend too long there though, because I was finally ahead of Chef and needed to reach the shelter before him!

At the shelter, I get out the secret graduation cap I made, the certificate Trail Mix helped me with, and all the party supplies I smuggled here. The folks already at the shelter were all in and even donated a glove to make a party balloon!

We celebrated Chef’s college graduation right on the trail, in a shelter, with strangers who quickly become friends. Honestly, it was way more fun than listening to a bunch of people you don’t know get called across stage!

Everyone headed to sleep in the 3 story shelter. We didn’t quite have a plan for tomorrow yet, but I did make reservations at Boots Off for the day after! Let the trail days excitement begin!