">
Killer 30 Mile Days in Smokey Mountain National Park
This morning it was dang hard to get up. I woke up around 4:30am and saw Punisher moving around. But he wasn’t getting up just yet. So I rolled over and woke back up after another hour or so. Then made my hot mocha with double coffee today. And eventually got moving. It would have been nice to sleep all day! But then last nights push wouldn’t really have been worth much.
Even starting late we still got moving around 7am. Thankfully everything that felt tight by the end of the day yesterday was feeling good this morning. Because we have another long day of walking to get through today. Our morning began with a couple small climbs. I was feeling strong through and pushed up pretty effortlessly. Then we began making our way toward Clingmans Dome. We were about 10 miles out from Derick Knob Shelter this morning. So we got a good bit of climbing to do over the first part of the day. But today is going to be a lot easier relative to yesterday. We did just shy of 10,000 feet yesterday, and will probably not break 8,000 feet today. I could use the reprieve of a gnarly day today.
Leaving Derick Knob as the sun came up.
As we climbed I listened to music to get me going. And wound up listening to the same album about 4 times over the course of the morning. Time felt like it was moving really slow though. With the occasional patches of ice to navigate around, and some relatively steep downhill, we were moving a little slower than I’d hoped. But that’s to be expected under varying conditions.
Even starting late this morning we still got to enjoy a beautiful sunrise.
Just after 9am we began the relatively gradual climb up to Clingmans Dome. Which gave a lot of relief with its intermittent sections of flatter ground and moderate uphill. Then toward the end there was a steeper push to get up to the road, where you could veer over to the tower. There were actually some views when we got up onto Clingmans! The weather had looked questionable for today, but we were lucky that all we got was a few drops of rain. Some dark clouds rolled in but didn’t hit us with anything. But it was wildly windy up top of the dome, so we didn’t stick around for long.
This section of forest heading toward Clingmans dome was so lush with green moss!
Leaving Clingmans we got back into the trail and had miles of iced over trail to slow us down. That got me a little bit annoying, if I’m being honest. Yesterday was the first day of the entire year that I felt myself get irritable. When we still had 12 miles left I was starving. And got genuinely hungry. Usually when I kick a rock or a stick I laugh out loud. But yesterday before we stopped off for early dinner it was driving me nuts. I could tell that I was just irritable from being hungry and a little run down. With a mountain of miles and elevation gain laying ahead of us.
The sign indicating Clingmans dome up ahead.
Today when we were leaving Clingmans I began to feel the same way. I was pretty hungry and had only had a couple bars. But it was so cold on top of the dome that we didn’t stop off for a break. As the icey trail began to slow us down I could feel myself losing patience. Which I don’t like! I usually pride myself on rolling with the punches and not getting bothered by anything at all. It’s been a long couple of days though, and our sleep schedule has been impacted a bit. I tried not to be too hard on myself for getting annoying. And did what I could to shift my mind set and turn it around.
Arriving at Clingmans dome!
The slabs of ice kept up for a long time. Which meant we had to skirt along the edge of the trail most of the time. I really didn’t want to slip and eat shit on the ice. After a few miles of that it was definitely getting old. But eventually the ice let up a bit which was nice. We were only about 6 or so miles at this point from Newfound Gap, where we’re planning on taking a lunch break.
It was dang windy up here but we actually got some amazing views.
When we passed the next water source we stopped off to fill up. There hasn’t been any water since the shelter so it was a bit of a carry. Then not long after that we ran into a ridge runner. She was super nice and actually recognized us! We talked to her for a bit before continuing along the trail.
Then within the next couple of miles we ran into 2 hikers. One of them was Ammo, who we saw outside of the NOC the other day. He got a ride back to Fontana where he had gotten off trail. It was crazy to think that we caught up to him already even with a 30 mile difference between us. We bridged that gap super fast. Which just always astonishes me. But after our 31 mile day yesterday I could understand how we did it. That’s a big day for the Smokies. It had me beat up, that’s for sure.
Views from on top of Clingmans dome.
After we passed those guys we got down to the next road pretty quickly. Then had a quick climb before we dropped down into Newfound Gap. Where we crossed out of North Carolina and into Tennessee! Our 4th state down with only 20 to go! At the gap we decided to stop and eat lunch. It was sunny but still pretty cold. I snacked on some cheese, pepperoni, and tortillas. Then managed to use the small bit of service that I had to get my Thursday YouTube video up. But didn’t have the time or service to get a blog or video up. I’ll just be a day behind and worry about that tomorrow. It’s not the end of the world! I only do what I can. The YouTube video was already fully uploaded. I just had to switch it from private to public, which was quick and easy. If you want to watch my full length vlogs they are on my YouTube @madisonblagden.
Crossing out of North Carolina into Tennessee!
While we were sitting there at the gap the two other hikers arrived. They had a shuttle come to meet them and take them into Gatlinburg. Their shuttle driver Hydro was super nice and has apparently been following our journey. So he offered us each a chocolate milk and a coke! That absolutely made my day. I needed something to shift my mind and turn the day around. Plus more than anything I needed the calories, fat, and protein. I downed that quick and then brought the coke out to drink further down the trail. Not long after that we packed up and continued along the trail.
One of the greatest surprises of the week! Chocolate milk at newfound gap.
I remembered the climb out of the gap being nice and gradual. And it was just as delightful as I remembered. The climb was graded so well I didn’t even heat up too bad as we made our way up. I could feel that my energy had shifted and I was in a good mood again. It’s funny to watch that shift happen, with something as simple as a chocolate milk. Yesterday was just a hard day! Truly. And then ending so late and starting early again today to do another long day can be hard. Mentally more than anything. But by the early evening I was feeling like myself again.
Leaving newfound gap the visibility was incredible and it was all views for the rest of the day.
There was still a good bit of elevation gain to go for the day. But we’ve made it past the worst of the climbs in the Smokies. Honestly, yesterday held all of the hardest climbs of the Smokies. Today it was mostly just gradual hills which weren’t too steep. The wind had picked up and it was super cold. So the climbing helped to keep me warm. The trail was incredibly beautiful as we weaved along a narrow ridge, which steep drops on both sides. It was hard to imagine hiking through this section of trail if there was snow. That would be pretty scary. But there was hardly any snow or ice after we crossed newfound gap. Just a few patches here and there which were fairly easy to navigate around.
I really enjoyed climbing up the ridge along this section of trail.
Over the next hour or so we passed by a hiker. We haven’t really seen anyone over the last couple days! So that was a nice sight. Then we continued along, doing the occasional climb and then dropping back down. As the sun began to drop we got some great views off in the distance. It was a beautiful way to end our last full day in the Smokies. Depending on timing tomorrow, we might complete the Smokies in 48 hours! Which would be a very cool feat.
A lovely sunset over the mountains in the distance.
We continued along the ridge as the sun began to set. It was such a lovely end of another long day. Then just before dark we got to the spur trail for the Peck’s Corner Shelter. Personally I try to avoid spur trails whenever possible. But if we continued on we would have to go another 7 miles to the next shelter. In the Smokies you have to stay at the shelters, so options are a bit limited. We didn’t want another super late night, so we opted to stop off here instead. Otherwise it would have been a 34 or so mile day. Which just wasn’t necessary.
The spur trail wasn’t too steep which was nice. As we’ll have to climb back up tomorrow morning. I was surprised when we got to the shelter that there were a bunch of hikers! Maybe 5 or so people, and a cat! IKEA found the cat before Neels Gap and decided to keep her. She was so tiny and cute with a loud meow. It was so special to end the day with a furry friend around.
Smokey! The kitty who was in the shelter tonight.
There was plenty of space for everyone so we got set up inside. Then sat outside to cook dinner. After I had my dehydrated meal I retreated back inside to my quilt. It was already getting pretty cold out. I think the weather is supposed to drop tonight into the low 30s or high 20s. So I slept with my water filter just to be safe.
Then laid in my quilt and did some writing. I try to get caught up at the end of every day. Then once I’m in service or WiFi tomorrow I’ll get yesterday’s blog and video up. We only have about 23 miles to do tomorrow, which will be very nice. And it’s only around 4,000 feet of elevation gain! So the comparison will be lovely for us. I’m looking forward to getting into Standing Bear relatively early and having a chill day. Hopefully someone can give us a lift to the nearest store to load up on some calories to eat for the night. Then we’ll be golden! I have a few packages there to pick up, so will be set for resupply. From Standing Bear it’s only about 40 miles to Hot Springs. Which will be our next resupply in just a couple days.
If you enjoyed this blog and would like to support my hike by buying me a soda or a snack along the way, there is a “Tip the Author” button below! It links directly to my Venmo. Any and all support is incredibly appreciated!
This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in the articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support The Trek's ongoing goal to serve you quality backpacking advice and information. Thanks for your support!
To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.
Comments 19
North Carolina isn’t quite over just yet.
Concur about North Carolina. Still in and out of NC until just before the steep decent down to TN 19E.
It might be a smart idea to just have a little snack when you get hungry. It can take the edge off till your real lunch. You need the calorie intake.
Clingman’s Dome is the best 360 degree view in the Smokies as long as the fog doesn’t block them. Max Patch in NC is great too. Enjoy.
Beautiful area! Be sure to eat so you can enjoy the whole time! (a little nagging for ya)😁
Saw another Lin on here so thought I’d change it up to my moniker instead 🤣.
First, you are doing a fantastic job PL. I’d be more than cranky with all that ice walking and elevation. Glad a few calories helped your mood. Please give yourself some credit – you have already been hiking for TWO FULL MONTHS with some incredible miles behind you ❤️. It’s okay to be a bit cranky every now and again 😘. You’ve GOT this!!! Welcome to TN xx
Pretty cool. You must be in pretty tip top shape to put in 30 miles during a day hike in the mountains. Im def not fit enough to do that. Heck i did the gregory bald trail in cades cove and that thing about killed me esp the going up part. Even if i was fit to do a thru hike, best i coukd do is maybe 20 miles a day if not fifteen. Im just one of those people that likes to explore and just stop and watch an animal scurring around for half an hour. I found that thru hiking is just a waste of outdoors but i understand others feel differently. Be safe.
You’ve only been on the AT for 10 days and you’ll soon exit the Smokey’s. Unbelievable!!! Hoping my wife and I can meet up with you two at a road crossing this summer. I’d love to meet you on a day your feeling cranky. I’d probably piss you off just to get a side eye or response. It drives my wife nuts if I smile when she’s angry, but there’s something endearing about an angry woman. Hope tomorrows better Peg Leg
PL, I must say, you are a great writer! I really enjoy your blog every day ! I’m old and I’ve got a little advice for you – Crankiness is your body’s way of telling you to ease up and relax. Look at it like an alarm going off. No matter what you’re doing; hiking, climbing or just watching a late movie, if you’re cranky, you need rest! If you need rest, you’re much more likely to make a mistake, get an injured, or get sick. You’re making outstanding time on this hike, and you’ve got nothing to prove to anyone.
You’re tough! Take it easy kid!
Please don’t post hikers blogs when they are hiking 30 miles a day and complain about being hungry and bad mood.
Normally thru hikers are only able to hike 20 to 25 miles a day thru the Smokies.
I am getting very tired in reading about super hikers when 85% if your readers are normal 20 to 25 miles per day during the Smokies.
Sorry to slam those super hikers but they only represent a small number of your hiker readers.
Oz.Ths.cdt2026
Gee, maybe you need a Snickers or something dude. You sound a little irritable. I’ve followed several hikers, in addition to PegLeg, for the last year or so. I’m aware that most aren’t pulling off miles like these too. I think pretty much everyone else knows that too. That’s one reason we like to cheer them on. I don’t know about Punisher but PegLeg has really worked up to these kinds of days and it’s inspiring to see her set goals and hike helps butt off to reach them. If that’s not what you’re in the mood to read there are plenty others blogging here to follow. These two hikers have to push out epic miles in order to reach their goal for this year. There’s no reason to criticize. Just do your thing and we’ll keep doing ours
This is the craziest of comments I’ve read on The Trek. Some of us have time constraints. Others, like Peg Leg have goals. I celebrated my 21st birthday at Shaws in Maine on 08/13/81. I had to be back in Indiana by the 5th of September for the beginning of my Junior year at Wabash. I had no choice but to crank out 30-40 mile days. You need to chill
Um no one is forcing you to read her plog…she’s been nothing but consistent in pushing for high mileage days, as she has a pretty intense goal to reach…
I think if the reading of these triple crown calendar year blogs is fatiguing, you should probably hold off. When you get your energy back and you can handle reading the reality of reading about hiking; cold, wet, heat, hunger, sleep loss, tedium, frustration, exasperation, exhaustion, and pushing through it all…. And yes by golly even mentioning it, give the reading another try.
Oh! Or! You could make a conscious choice to do what’s best for you…. Hike your own hike, and, read your own read. Don’t read them.
These two have been hiking for 2 months. They are fit highly knowledgeable extremely experienced athletes. So far, one mention of irritability hunger and frustration…. Part of everyone’s hike, part of life, part of reality.
Don’t read any more elite hiker blogs. Problem solved.
I liked this entry. It is real and raw, since not all days are peaches and cream Insta ready. Chocolate milk to the rescue! Keep sharing the good times and struggles. That’s life on trail, no matter how far you go in a day. Glad Punishers knee is better.
Remember everyone, we are the Peacemakers. Have a wonderful Sunday!
Congrats on your Trek “Top Contributor” Sticker!!!
Keep crushing it, Peg!
You’re going thru beautiful country there in Tennessee. Be careful. God Bless.
I did I big loop this weekend and saw you had signed the log at Pecks! Keep after it!
Not just any chocolate milk…. Borden’s 🙂