Nearing Home – Days 131 thru 135
Day 131 – VA 16 / Mt Rogers Headquarters / Merry Hiker Inn to Atkins, VA / Long Neck Lair
Rain seems to be the theme. It wasn’t when we woke, it wasn’t when we hit the trail just before 8, but massive amounts were in the forecast. We have a short day planned. Jump to the next hostel and get dry again.
The trail was pretty easy today. Lots of nice rhododendron tunnels with nice pine needle paths. Not too much up or down. Some rocks to keep us honest.
The best part was chatting with Ready. He said that two rainy days on the trail are better than five sunny days at the beach. Meriwether and I both agree.
This morning I was still tired. I think Meriwether was too. We have been burning up the miles. Averaging over 20 a day for the last week. And we only did 11 today.
We met Ready’s wife, she is as kind and fun as Ready. They go nicely together. It was hard saying “see you later” but I know we will.
We spent the afternoon resting, photographing the alpacas, and eating the food left by other hikers in the refrigerator. This hostel has very comfortable bunks, we will be sleeping soon. Meriwether already told me the alarm is set for 4.
165 miles left. This is more than we have done in 7 days. It is very doable in 8, even easy in 9. Should be home by the middle of next week. Hopefully before next weekend. I get sad thinking about it.
Day 132 – Atkins, VA / Long Neck Lair to Chestnut Knob Shelter
The weather was perfect this morning. There was a calm wind, a chill in the air, and we could see a sliver of the moon and some stars. The weather forecast has no rain for about a week.
The first 14 miles flew by. I commented to Meriwether that I didn’t feel like we were moving that fast. I was surprised when we had 9.5 miles at 9.
The last 6 miles were pretty slow. Reports on FarOut indicate there is no water on the mountain so we tanked up and camelled up as well. Packs were heavy climbing over 2000 feet.
I took a look at the register in the shelter where we stopped for lunch. A guy named Puzzles had left a note the night before. We caught up with him a few hours later and shared the shelter with him.
As we were getting close to the shelter, the thunder clouds started gathering and the rain started falling. So much for a dry day.
The view down into Burks Garden is amazing from the shelter. I imagine the sunset and sunrise will be amazing too. I will likely be asleep before the sun sets and hiking before it rises. We have a long ridge walk in the morning, so I am hopeful for a long sunrise.
Day 133 – Chestnut Knob Shelter to Helveys Mill Shelter
Mice played in the shelter last night. For some reason one was interested in the pot we use to boil water. There has never been any food in that pot, so I’m not sure why the mouse kept trying to get into it. A bunch of other mice found a bag of bread and peanut butter that had been abandoned in the shelter.
The view into Burks Garden, God’s Thumbprint, was even more amazing this morning. A sliver of the moon and a bunch of stars hung over the recess.
Today’s hike was tough. It wouldn’t be a hard hike in the spring, but most of the streams and springs are dry. We carried about 9 liters the last 12 miles or so. And it wouldn’t have been enough. During part of the road walk we were given another 5 liters. Made it to camp with 6 liters and have less than 4 that will have to hold us for another 16 miles tomorrow.
Today we passed the spot where we started an anniversary trip 2 years ago. We have hiked every mile of the Appalachian Trail. Tomorrow we will pass the spot where we finished a 100 mile pre hike last Fall and will have completed every mile in less than 12 months. However, we are holding out for next week when we will have done every mile in one shot, probably under 140 days from start to finish.
We can hear the Interstate from our tent, the road noises are drowning out a lot of the nature noises. I think we will have a few more remote nights, we get enough road noise at home.
Right now I am thankful for the opportunity to be out here. I am also thankful for the truck driver that gave us a bunch of water.
Day 134 – Helveys Mill Shelter to Wapiti Shelter
Last night there was no rain and no mice. Everyone is happy this morning. There was a small creature sneaking up on the tent during my midnight bathroom break. Much bigger than a mouse, probably a raccoon.
Today was likely our last “easy” day on the trail. No big climbs or descents, only one day of food, and hopefully enough water to make it to Trent’s.
We got 12.9 by 10 and were at Trent’s in time for lunch. Prior to getting to Trent’s, we crossed Kimberling Creek on a footbridge at VA 606. Last Fall we pre hiked our last 100 miles, just in case we got pressed for time. Meriwether is supposed to be back at school in just over a week. So, we have hiked the entire trail in less than 12 consecutive months now. Our next destination is finishing the trail in one go.
In addition to hiking these last 100 miles last Fall, we have hiked them many times. This is our backyard. Currently our plan has 5 hiking days to home. Our average mileage those days is way less than we have been doing, we could be home in 4.
Every now and then I get a bit sad that this trip is just about over. To be honest, however, most of the time I just want to be done. I am tired of putting on wet clothes in the morning. I am tired of being dirty. My body feels strong, but when we stop moving I am exhausted. I am tired of being tired.
Having said all that, there is some new gear we want to try out and I am excited for those trips this Fall. We met a guy a few weeks ago who is hiking North, I am hopeful he will reach out when he gets close to Roanoke and I can meet him for a few days on the trail. I am looking forward to a similar but shorter adventure next summer.
The trail from 606 to Wapiti Shelter is one of my favorites. There are no views. It is mostly in a green rhododendron tunnel. Part of the tunnel follows a brook, crossing it several times. It is that section I particularly enjoy. The air is cool. All the road noises are drowned out. It is dark. It is a place of contemplation. I feel relaxed and at ease every time I hike through that section.
On this whole journey I have been most thankful for the people that have fought hard to protect places like the Appalachian Trail. We need more of these places and the protection needs to be greater. Pierce Baxter’s vision for Baxter State Park needs to be replicated many many times.
Day 135 – Wapiti Shelter to Pearisburg / Angel’s Rest Hiker’s Haven
The rain started pretty early in the night, maybe 10 PM. I had already had my midnight bathroom break, so I closed the vestibule on my side of the tent and woke Meriwether to do the same on her side. The rain did cool things off a bit.
Usual morning routine.
Shortly before our 10 by 10, we were passing Doc’s Knob Shelter and noticed someone there, so we walked down to meet him. Monk is out for a long section hiker, all of VA, and will be at the hostel tonight.
The trail today was typical of the next 4 days. Steep up a mountain, long ridge walk, steep down the mountain. We passed lots of familiar sites, Doc’s Knob, Woods Hole, Pearis Ledges, Angels Rest.
The sky threatened rain all day. We only got a short summer shower right when we got to the hostel. The temperature stayed pretty cool, actually not too warm is probably more accurate. My pants actually dried today.
Shortly after we started the descent from Angels Rest we met a friend from home coming up the trail. She had offered to bring trail magic to us in Pearisburg. She wanted to see Angels Rest, so she continued up the mountain after our greetings. I was surprised that she caught back up with us as quickly as she did.
Stephanie had brought cold drinks, sandwiches, cookies, brownies, chips, a real feast for us. After stuffing our faces she took us to Food Lion and observed our resupply purchasing. Then she took us to the hostel and checked out our room. I am pretty sure she wants to do a thru hike and was getting a glimpse of what happens behind the scenes. Go for it Stephanie, you can do it, no need to wait.
I am feeling refreshed and almost ready to tackle the last 73.4 miles. First we have to hike 1.4 in the morning to get back to the trail. Before that I am hoping to get a good night’s sleep.
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Comments 1
I’m glad to read your reflections on your amazing hike- you are beginning the goodbye to all of us readers. I’m glad you are closing in on home but will be sad to no longer read your posts. Great job to both of you!