Northern Virginia and The Flip

HEAT WAVE 

Hiking Northern Virginia in the recent heat wave has been a challenge to say the least. I’ve heard of the Virginia blues but honestly didn’t have a moment to think about it. The temps started rising and hiking every damn day became a struggle. Water sources dried up and carrying water for 10+ miles became a new normal. I’ve honestly never been so hot in my life! Temps in the 90s with feels like well over 100 degrees made hiking literally dangerous. Heat stroke was a real issue.  I hiked on days that I probably should not have been outside but what else is there to do?!?  Hostels are great but not long term. I did slack pack a couple times which helped me gain some speed but mostly I just adjusted my hike time. Now up at 5am with a resting lunch time and hike into camp at dark.  Try to stay cool and hydrated which is difficult when I hate electrolyte drinks…gross!  

VIRGINIA TRIPLE CROWN

I think I’ve mentioned that I don’t like open heights.  Well, I hiked up to Dragon’s Tooth one hot miserable day.  I swear that Pennsylvania loaned freaking Virginia all their leftover rocks! I’ve hiked most of Pennsylvania and I can honestly say that sections of Virginia rival the rocky areas of PA! Anyway, the hike to Dragon’s Tooth is not fun in the heat but I got there and decided nope I’m not hiking yet another 0.1 mile to see yet another rock, sorry Dragon, so I continued down towards the crowds. The first metal ladder was ok with a few visitors to chat too but the next set of rocks became an issue quickly.  I was stuck. Panicking and unable to take that first step down the rock. So I cried and had a moment.  I discussed with myself how I had hiked all these damn miles to now get stuck on a flat rock face! Finally somehow I mustered the courage to take that first step down, like how do you balance with a pack and how do you not fall forwards down the mountain??? I’m still not sure how I managed it but I made it down that damn thing! Of course while I’m there all the visitors disappeared!  So no help or encouragement from them!  I was over the day and the heat! As much as I hated going to another hostel I headed to Four Pines Hostel for a shower and some mental rest. I literally was drained from one of the three so I wasn’t looking forward to the next day.  I have done McAfee’s Knob previously so I hoped it would be ok. The next day I knocked out both McAfee’s Knob and then Tinker Cliffs with no issues. Loved both of them! Tried for a sunset on Tinker but too cloudy.  I did not enjoy my first rattlesnake though!!

He surprised me on the ledges up to Tinker Cliffs.  I’m always on the lookout for snakes but whoa he was just chilling on the rock where I climbed up to.  Scary that he was so close but luckily he wasn’t startled. No rattle just a lazy look.  We moved him along because sunning on the trail is not where a rattlesnake should be with other hikers coming along behind us.  

VIRGINIA IS FLAT AND OTHER MYTHS

So I’ve always heard that Virginia is flat. Funny story is that it’s definitely not flat! At least the Appalachian Trail part of Virginia isn’t flat. Technically I still have about 34 miles left of the damn state but I’m pretty sure that the “Roller Coaster” which is up ahead also isn’t flat, duh.  From some of the Shenandoah overlooks I saw a few farm areas with some flat areas but that was it. Some people tell me that it’s our “trail legs” kicking in.  Yes, I can easily hike 20 mile days now but throw in some icky terrain as in Virginia and that becomes not easy! So I stick with my original statement. Sorry, Virginia, you are most definitely not flat! 

Shenandoah National Park is beautiful. Yes, the overlooks are amazing. We saw some wonderful views, I hiked that area with a section hiker, Crayon. But….the AT technically doesn’t have those views! Who knew??? We stay in the ever present green tunnel of woods so we see very little of the “beautiful” park. So we road walked miles of the park for the views. Worth it? Yes, but our feet paid the price! Trail vs road, trail wins for feet.  The heat also didn’t help and the park is pretty dry overall. Wonderful trail angels left water at trailheads and road crossings, thank you!! The Waysides were also worth every mile, can you say… blackberry milkshake!!! Definitely worth the rattlesnake encounter that day. He decided that scaring the shit out of me was necessary.  I saw a copperhead that same day as well.  Still not a fan of snakes but I haven’t screamed in quite awhile when seeing one.  Overall the woods of Shenandoah National Park are about the same as the rest of the trail, trees and rocks.  Not really anything special.  Not my favorite section at all.  

Shelters are nicer in national parks.  Nope, about the same. Despite having to pay a fee to hike there, the trail is about the same. I don’t begrudge the park system my fee but seriously they could update some of the facilities in the park! As you all know, I’m not a frequent privy user but one of them literally tips backwards leaning down the hill that it sits on precariously. Some of the shelters are older as well and could use some updates. I think the entrance fees go towards other things despite it being a “Backcountry” permit. This brings me to the fees, lol, we walked the road to enter the park since our woods has no signage.  There is a sign but not the nice big signs!  Well, now we have to pay an entrance fee to the park on top of our permit but if we just stayed on the trail no fee?!? Like what the hell? 

If you fall, there’s a chance of rescue.  This myth I never really thought about until we passed a summer camp group of 47 children! Yes, you read that correctly, 47 kids hiking up a section called Mary’s Rock. Not sure what those counselors were thinking or the organizing people but on a hot summer day those young folks were trekking up the trail carrying water bottles and a lunch. We stopped to let them pass, we were heading down the hill and letting the early ones know that they really didn’t have long to go….the last ones we saw later weren’t going to make it by dinner 😂.  One group of boys about 8-10 years old were discussing the drop off along the trail, yes, straight downhill along side a trail with kids! Anyway, the one said well if “you fall you just die”.  No mention of rescue, just die. “Just die”! Well, that puts the two SARs folks out of business! We met them out on the trail doing prevention work. Speaking with hikers and checking in on water and safety. They didn’t mention the “just die” aspect so the boys are wrong, I hope.

THE FLIP

So about a month or so ago I asked my husband about my flip flop. I have always planned on flipping north and flopping back down to fill in the middle. I honestly knew that timing would be a stressful thing for me.  Mt Katahdin, the ending, closes at some point in the early fall. It is weather dependent so no specific date. I can’t handle that stress so a flip flop hike is what I planned.  But the when and where has been up in the air.  I chose Front Royal, mile 973, to end my southern section. I would’ve finished Virginia but there’s no road to get off trail and timing worked well here. After a short break to see family and meet my granddaughter, I will be flipping north to Mt Moosilauke in New Hampshire. My husband will be hiking with me for a few weeks to get me over the Whites. Remember that panic attack at Dragon’s Tooth??? Somehow that man will get me over some crazy mountains and able to hike north by myself!?!  Not sure how that will go but I’ll keep you all posted along the way.