Pennsylvania Pays Out in the End: AT Flip Flop Days 27-31

Day 27

I slept alright at the hostel. They had pancakes for breakfast, which seems to be the standard for most hostels that provide breakfast. What really made me happy was the hot coffee. I think the coffee helped fuel my hike for the day. 

The first stretch of the day was really easy, but gradually got a little harder. I then reached a section I had really been looking forward to in Pennsylvania, the Knife’s Edge. I had a blast traversing the rocks up there. (You can see a POV time lapse on my Instagram.) The rocks going up and down Bake Oven Knob just after were a little sketchy, but I made it down just fine. 

A little later on I slipped and banged my ankle on a rock. It stung, but ended up not being too bad. The McGees caught up to me while I was sitting down to make sure my ankle was ok. They said someone walking south had mentioned there was trail magic ahead, so I popped up and kept going. We got to the trail magic, but there was only one Mountain Dew left, so Jingle and I split it. 

We got the shelter and realized it was not great for camping. Perch and the McGees set up in the shelter, but Hot for Teacher, Bug, and I needed to find hammock sites. I gave Teach and Bug the site I was planning to use, since it was good for two people and in a nicer spot. I found a trickier spot on a hill that I made work for the night, hoping that I was banking some good trail karma.

Day 28

I didn’t sleep the best on my hilly hammock hang, but we only had a mile hike down to the road to Palmerton, PA. We had to walk another 2 miles into town to the post office and a bit further to the diner for breakfast. It was funny to see all the hikers segregated with the nobos at one table, the section hikers at another, and us flip floppers at the next table over. 

After breakfast we went up the street to the grocery store for a quick resupply, then we got an Uber back to trail. Right away coming out of Palmerton, we hit another section I was looking forward to, Lehigh Gap. It is a scramble up a rock face, requiring hands and feet to make the climb. I enjoyed it, but most of the others would rather have taken the bypass. 

The McGees, Perch, Teach, Bug, and I decided to all stick together for the next few days to Delaware Water Gap at the end of PA. We only hiked 6.5 AT miles today, but it felt like a longer day. We had all packed out a lot of water for the dry stretch, but the climb was so hot we were almost empty.

We found a beautiful campsite and set about preparing for a tramily dinner. The McGees had freeze dried steaks for everyone, so we started rehydrating them with the rest of our water. Jingle made a fire for cooking while Perch, Teach, Subtitles (the other McGee, so named because some people have a hard time understanding him due to his mumbling and Mississippi accent), and I took a side trail down to a ski lodge to get water. Perch, Teach, and I stopped into the lodge’s bar for a drink before heading back up. We bought a margarita for Jingle and smuggled it out in a nalgene bottle.

We got back to camp to the amazing smell of steak cooking on an open fire. It was the best backpacking camp meal I’ve ever had, and it will be hard to ever beat it.

Day 29

We all slept in and had a slow morning in camp. I did some extra stretches, and Perch helped me doctor a blister on my heel. I was last out of camp and had a very peaceful walk alone. The grips on my trekking poles had broken in Palmerton, but I discovered one of them was still usable.

Around noon I reached the road where I had planned to stop for lunch to discover the rest of the tramily gathered around some trail magic. Toenail, who thru hiked last year, and his family were serving burgers, hot dogs, and other goodies.

After lunch, I took the lead and arrived at the shelter first. My stomach was starting to hurt, and I had a rough afternoon, visiting the rancid privy a few times. I felt a little better in the evening and was able to yogi some Imodium from fellow flip floppers Crash and Boom Boom. 

Day 30

I couldn’t believe how bright it was when I woke up, sleeping in until 7. My stomach was feeling completely better. Teach, Bug, and I packed up quickly and went down to the shelter to join the others and go over our plan for the day. 

I was last out of camp again, but I quickly caught up to everyone. Having been dehydrated the last few days, I took a short road walk to a motel with a water spigot to get some water in an otherwise dry stretch. I think it made a big difference being able to rehydrate.

After crossing Wind Gap, the climb out was steep, and the horrible rocks reappeared at the top. It was also a really hot day. At the next stream, I carried out a heavy 4 liters of water, thinking the shelter we were staying at would be dry. Thankfully, the last few miles getting there were easy.

Getting to the shelter I discovered there was a spigot for water, so I had carried the 4 liters for nothing. A lot of people showed up at camp, but only one was brave enough to sleep in the shelter after a large black snake curled up in the rafters.

Day 31

I was so ready to get to Delaware Water Gap and out of the woods of PA for the last time. We only had six and half miles into town. It felt like a longer than that, but it was great to finally get to the house where me and the McGees were going to stay.

I got set up in the house and showered. We met the rest of the tramily at the bakery for lunch. Afterwards we went to the post office to pick up some packages and then went back to the house to start laundry. 

After a nice nap, we had Teach and Perch pick us up for a beer run to the next town over. Then we all went to dinner for the last time as a tramily. Teach and Bug were at the end of their section and going to NYC the next day, and Perch was going to hike out in the morning. The McGees and I had a few drinks on the porch before bed. It felt great to sleep in a private room for the first time since my first night in PA.

Lack-of-Shower Thoughts

This stretch was still challenging, but getting through it as a group made it a lot of fun. The rock scrambles over the Knife’s Edge and up Lehigh Gap made for a fun break from the monotonous, painful rocks. Having the steak dinner in the woods at a beautiful campsite was a magical experience. I was ready and happy to be done with Pennsylvania, but I’m grateful for the last few days. This stretch felt like redemption for all the challenges I faced in PA, especially from the week prior.