Pennsylvania: The Challenge of my Home State

I was born and raised in Pennsylvania. I eat scrapple, chicken corn soup, and my favorite sandwich is lebanon bologna on a potato roll. I retained my residency in PA during college and my active duty Coast Guard years, voting as an absentee voter in the Adams County, Franklin Township No. 1 voting district, over all that time. And despite all that, I really didn’t know a lot of the geography in my midstate. Our backpacking through the region has helped erase that deficit.

Heading North Through PA

Central and I started our northward hike from Duncannon on Thursday, June 26. We were provided a ride by Phys Ed, a hiker who has completed the AT, and who is an unofficial mentor to us both. Phys Ed had an obligation that afternoon, but he came with us through our traverse of Duncannon streets, across the Juniata and Susquehanna Rivers, over railroad tracks, and up Peters Mountain, after which he hiked back to his car.

It turned into a hot and humid day. Drinking from my water bladder was even a chore, as the water was lukewarm. I was trying to come up with a way to get off trail to get something cold to drink when I crossed a bridge and found Twizzler providing trail magic! Four cold drinks later and after some enjoyable chatting, Central and I left Twizzler’s company and made it Peters Mountain Shelter.

Our progress east was hampered by two things: the heat, and the rocks. I used to bristle when I heard fellow AT hikers call my home state “Rocksylvania.” Not any more. I found the rocks were either sticking up in the middle of the trail, making speedy trekking impossible, or were a series of rocks you had to hop on, one to another. Neither was fun, but the first caused me greater challenges (and pains!).

We got dumped on by rain our second day, making it to Rausch Gap Shelter after many hours in the rain. The trail was like a series of ponds, or a slow moving creek. I complained of this to my wife once, and later that day I received a video from my son showing Gene Kelly (another Pennsylvanian) demonstrating how to positively dance and sing in the rain! I have kept a positive attitude in rain ever since.

Rausch Gap Shelter was accessed via a side trail over what was once a roadbed, most likely for a railroad. This is not unheard of, as the AT immediately north of Pine Grove Furnace follows a train roadbed. Starting a few miles before Rausch Gap Shelter with the site of a former mining village, there were a number of things that gave evidence to the former mining and industry in the region. Former canal locks exist along the trail, and a wayside marker noted that cargo in a canal barge could be up to 80 tons. I spied former charcoal hearths during my trek (wide, circular areas, often with darker soil). Coming down into Port Clinton, the road to the train station contains a display of anthracite coal. Central and I stayed at the church pavillion in Port Clinton. We heard freight trains on the tracks on the west side of the nearby Little Schuylkill River, and tractor trailers using their compression brakes a mere twenty yards east of us on a road hidden by trees. It was ironic that the successors to canal freight were still causing challenges today for Port Clinton denizens.

During our journey we stayed at the 501 Shelter, and later we camped across the road from the Eckvillle Shelter. These shelters were unique, being more similar to a hunting cabin (the 501 Shelter) and a small shed (the Eckville Shelter) than to traditional three-sided shelters. We understand the NPS or others plan to remove these shelters. And while I do not know the policy or political reasons behind these plans, I hope the NPS and ATC ensure new shelters are built and functional before the old ones are removed. It would be foolhardy to remove functional shelters – even ones that do not look the part – before constructing the new ones to replace them.

People and Names

There were many felllow AT hikers we met in PA. One shuttle driver thinks this is the rear of one of three bubbles, while another believes bubbles don’t exist this year. Regardless, there were a slew of hikers at shelters and hostels, along with unique trail names. “Young Guns” carries that trail name because he has a passing resemblance to Emilio Estavez, an actor in a movie with that name. “Taxman” was born on April 15th, but didn’t earn that trail name until an odd hiker, upon learning his birthdate, told him “You’ld better not tax us to use the AT!” “Moon Pie,” a native of Connnecticut, evidently had a habit of showing his bare backside to other hikers. Other trail names I remember include “Tex,”  “Lunch Box” and “Golden.”

I ran into “Devo” on the trail. From Bradford County, PA, he was enjoying a long section hike.

A few minutes later a longtime hiking buddy of Devo’s showed up. Wanderer has thru-hiked the AT twice, and enjoys getting on the trail whenever possible. It was great to meet him.

Friends

Central and I needed to resupply, do laundry, and get a shower. There were fewer hostels in that reach of the trail, and so I texted a friend from my junior high and high school years. He and his wife – on no notice and over a weekend – graciously invited us to stay in their home, fed us, let us wash our clothing and shower, and then drove a long distance to return us to the trail.

This friend and I lived in the same neighborhood when we were young. We had paper routes at the same time, later worked in a dining facility together, played on the same sports teams, and jointly committed numerous hi-jinks once we each got cars. We married hometown girls, and we both served as officers in branches of the military.

I cannot think of a better friend. At the same time, I believe we likely vote for different candidates during state and federal elections. I feel strongly that I will do everything I can to maintain this friendship, as we have a lot of common experiences. I believe it likely he feels the same way. The bottom line is that folks that share experiences and commonalities – be it helping build a Habitat for Humanity house, assisting neighbors or others in your community, or anything else – are much more likely to build on those shared experiences, and even befriend each other. We need that. And thank you both for your hospitality!

Where we Are

Central and I stayed at the Leroy Smith Shelter last night and are now enjoying a NERO in Wind Gap. Tomorrow we undertake a slackpack that will take us well into New Jersey. It will be good to chalk up another state in PA. We knew it was time to get off the trail this morning when our coffee was like drinking tan porridge, the victim of instant potatoes instead of the expected dried milk. I guess it is time to check our cooking supplies.

Lebanon Bologna Sandwich

If you want to enjoy great eating, here is my recipe for a killer sandwich.  Take a hamburger-sized Martin’s potato roll, and lightly mayonaise the top and bottom (I recommend Duke’s or Hellman’s mayo). Place two slices of regular lebanon bologna on the roll, followed by a slice of cheddar cheese, and then lettuce. This pairs well with apple cider (I recommend Kime’s from Bendersville, PA). In the absence of a dark apple cider, orange juice works well.

Enjoy your summer. Hogmaw out.