Quick on the draw: very little hard hiking left. Mostly just very hard!
This post covers New Hampshire and about 200 miles of the trail up to around mile 1,900.
Only two states to go
As Vermont was left behind after an appropriately muddy and rainy day (its nickname is Vermud!), there was an expected gear change as the Appalachian Trail moved into New Hampshire. The difficulty ramps up significantly over the rest of the trail, and it is not uncommon for people to give up at this stage when the end is in sight (well only another 500 odd miles!).
Rocky and steep
Lots of steep rocky climbs and descents are regularly encountered through to the end. This includes big sections of slab rock. The weather becomes very significant as rocks which can be fine when dry, may be treacherous in wet conditions. The residents of New Hampshire and Maine often speak proudly of the fact that their trail goes straight up and down mountains, without switchbacks. It does mean that they have bad erosion on their trail sections. The steepness and the rocks and roots (exposed by the erosion), make it hard on the body, especially going downhill.
EFI
It was nice to meet Ripple and Clouds at this point, two very experienced hikers from Kendal in the UK. Like me, they prefer the purist approach to the AT; no shortcuts and carry your own backpack all the way. As they put it EFI (“every fantastic inch”, although alternative interpretations of the acronym are available).
Why New Hampshire can be forgiven
The rocks of Pennsylvania are notorious and often complained about. The rocks of New Hampshire are worse. However, New Hampshire is forgiven as the payoff is glorious landscape and fantastic views. New Hampshire can be a hiker’s favourite and least favourite state on the AT at the same time. If you click on the pictures and read the text with them, you might get a better idea why. You will also find out why someone called Marlene became my most significant trail angel on the AT.
Into New Hampshire.
Maybe not my last toad…
Rock slab: a taste of things to come.
A short respite before tough days.
Another 6,000+ ft day of ascent. All too much for my trekking poles.
The kindness of strangers again and my ultimate trail angel Marlene.
Trail legend Nope.
Only 10 miles but a hard day.
A dangerous steep descent through a stream that left many hikers speechless or very vocal.
“It was one of my most enjoyable days on trail”.
Another great day but ending with a descent named by many hikers as their least favourite part of the AT.
Helping a lost person followed by the steepest mile on the AT (also the least favourite part for some hikers. There is plenty of choice for that category).
I fell asleep doing this picture. I should also probably have done the sunrise from the top of Wildcat mountain; one of my highlight moments so far.
Hostel and resupply before entering Maine.
And as usual, a few photos:
A slightly bedraggled lunar moth.
Ethan pond was beautiful but full of leeches.
A sobering sign.
Wingspan just before the summit of Mount Washington.
The sunrise from Wildcat Mountain.
Waterlilies in the pond at Carter Notch.
An old man on a mountain.
And again, that is the trail route (Wildcat mountain).
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Comments 2
I love your interpretation of the hike through watercolor and pen and ink. To journal and paint after a hard hiking day is remarkable. Thank you.
Thanks Jenny. There were a couple of times that I nearly did not do it as I was so tired. But I knew one missed day would lead to others. Usually once I started I revived. There were so many things I wanted to draw but did not have time to do so.