">
Seven, seven, seven, seven …. SEVEN!
To those “Friends” sitcom aficionados out there, yes I’m quoting Monica but it also happens to be my current fall count. I had been so careful, nursing my knee back to some semblance of health, but torrential rains turned the AT into a slippery muddy mess. Down I went, again, slightly tweaking an already sore knee but I don’t think it ultimately was all that bad. More just mad at myself for the misstep. Oh well, no serious harm done. I’m sure eight is just around the corner.
So I’ve been told I need to write more frequently to keep family and friends abreast of what’s happening and what I’m experiencing out here on trail. The truth is, by the time I’m finished hiking for the day and get my camp chores completed (setting up sleep area, getting water, cooking dinner, etc.) I’m beat. Interesting side note, in the beginning, my favorite part of backpacking was the actual hiking. I did not look forward to the night hours – that’s when all those weird noises in the woods would keep me from sleeping, or at least sleeping well. I’d lie in my bag counting the number of times I’d have to pee before I could wake up and start hiking again – one, two, three, …
Now, however, my favorite part of the day is when I get to crawl into my sleeping bag and pass out. Perhaps when it warms up a bit I won’t be so eager to get snuggled in for the night and I’ll spend more time writing. But then again, probably not. So, I will continue to force myself to provide regular updates. Thank you to the 9 people out there who take the time to read my rambling missives. I really do appreciate your comments and questions – so keep them coming.
Hostels
Everyone comes to the trail with their own idea as to what camping looks like. When I previously section hiked the AT, I wanted to “live in my tent”. My hiking partners wanted to hit the towns or stay in a hostel every second or third night. I’ve encountered others who would stay in a hostel (or hotel) every night if they could. Now that I am a “grizzled veteran” I see the error in my previous thinking. I have loved staying at the hostels along the way. They are all very different. Ranging from extremely comfortable to spartan to say the least. They are all apart of the trail experience. Below are the last three hostels I visited.
Bear Garden (mile 558) – this hostel is run by a wonderful couple (although we only had the privilege of meeting the husband as his wife was section hiking PA). Only a short walk up the road from the trail crossing, you will find a comfortable bunkhouse that has an assortment of food and resupply items. It is very basic, but comfortable, clean and very affordable. There is a challenge to those big mileage hikers, that if you do a 25+ mile section ending back at the hostel a second night, a chocolate cake will be baked especially for you. Needless to say, I didn’t get one.
Burke’s Garden (mile 571) – idyllic setting in a “crater” surrounded by mountains, this is a must stop hostel. It’s a bit of a hike from trail crossing but entirely worth it. The proprietors have renovated an Amish barn and brought it into the 21st century. They have thought of everything a hiker might want and then some. Great resupply and waffles and coffee breakfast are pretty good. Another benefit of my stay, was I got to experience the healing nature of a home grown hemp based salve. The swelling in my knee was considerably diminished the next morning. Thanks!
Angel’s Rest (mile 637)- this is another standard stop when thru hikers reach Pearisburg. This hostel offers a both private rooms or bunk house, nice shower facilities, laundry and most importantly- chiropractic care! While I personally didn’t need chiropractic manipulation, the Doc Peppa is also skilled in acupuncture techniques. Having never had acupuncture done to me AND having a knee that was hurting, I said “why not?”. Let me tell you, I’m a believer. The pain was dramatically reduced after procedure and I felt better hiking in the days that followed. What really got me though, was the Doc knew I forgot to pick up KT tape and after she dropped me off at trail, she went and got some tape, drove it up the trail to a road crossing I would come to in an hour or so, and left it there for me!
Wildlife Encounters
With spring, finally having some success at displacing winter, there has been a marked increase in the variety and frequency of wildlife encounters. Until recently, I typically would only see a few birds, the random deer or squirrel and, of course, my favorite nocturnal visitor- the coyote. Since passing through Grayson, however, I’ve encountered wild ponies, marauding goats, mice, pesky ticks, spiders, gnats and flys and even my first snake! 
I suppose this should be expected being out in the woods and all, but I spent the first month mostly as the only obvious creature in the woods. Now the woods is teeming with life. The leaves are just starting to appear. It won’t be long before the AT once again becomes the “green tunnel” after its long winter’s rest. Can’t wait.
Magic
Jason – as with all trail magic, this encounter was unexpected but greatly appreciated. After a long days hike and with one more small hill to climb, Dash and I came to a road crossing where we met Jason. Jason is a retired Air Force Vet who lives near the trail and loves handing our beer to weary hikers. He has a plan to open an establishment to provide a greater assortment of goodies in the near future but for now – the beer was greatly appreciated (as was your service to our country – Thank You!)
Fresh Ground – it’s every hikers dream to encounter Fresh Ground and his traveling cafe while on their thru hike. My first encounter, back in NC, I was late to the party and missed out on (what I hear) was a great breakfast. Seeing the sorry look in my eyes, he made me a fresh salad for lunch with all the fixings. This time, however, I arrived at the appointed time and place and was treated to a wonderful Mexican dinner. Of course I over ate, which normally wouldn’t be bad thing for a thru hiker, but I still had a mountain to climb. Fortunately, I was able to keep it down while I climbed up!
Mental Status
I have been at this long enough where I have settled into a routine. I’m not implying it’s becoming mundane, quite the contrary. Each day brings new vistas, people, and opportunity to experience God’s creation up close and personal. I do seem to spend more time thinking about the next milestone – 800 mile mark, entering Shenandoah National Park, leaving Virginia!! They say that because Virginia contains more than 25% of AT, people often get discouraged – so called Virginia Blues. Well let me state unequivocally, the Virginia Blues are real. Other than a few aches and pains, I feel strong and have my hiker’s legs. I do look forward to the day when I can bid adieu to VA. 
Perhaps the biggest driver is I miss my family. I recently had a visit from my wife and she asked “Have you found what you were looking for yet when you set off on this adventure?” I’m not really sure what I was/am looking for but I do know one thing. This hike has shown me how blessed I am to have the family that I do. I look forward to the time when we will be reunited. Until then, know that I think of you each daily and it is because of you that I can keep on moving forward. 
Achievements
- Passed the 700 mile mark
- Completed Virginia’s triple crown (Dragon’s Tooth, McAfee Knob, Tinker Cliffs)
- Fixed my tent – Thank you Big Agnes!
- Completed southern half of Virginia
- Still heading north
Never Been Closer!
Dozer
This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in the articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support The Trek's ongoing goal to serve you quality backpacking advice and information. Thanks for your support!
To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.
Comments 34
Bill,
This was my favorite post to date. You feel settled which makes me feel settled. I love hearing about the people you are meeting! It must be refreshing to see so much “rooting for each other” when we live in a time of so much self serving behavior. Soak it all in and keep sharing your experiences.
Suffering produces Perseverance; Perseverance, Character; and Character, HOPE ~ Romans 5:3-5 You are living it!!!!
Love you-Sue
Tanks Sue – miss you. Can’t wait to see you in person. Love ya
It’s the highlight of my morning to read one of your posts. I am in awe of what you are doing and appreciate you sharing a part of your adventure with people like me. Safe travels.
Thank you Karen. I appreciate your kind words
I cannot believe only 9 people have read your posts! I hardly know you, but look forward to each one and am so enjoying them. And, I am confident that you are going to complete this. It is an impressive goal, and no doubt there are moments when you question it, but I am praying for you to accomplish it. Keep on going and a very Happy Easter to you too!
Thank you for your prayers! I hope I can finish. I just try and take one day at a time. Thanks for following along
I love reading these posts Uncle Bill! Proud of you. So cool to hear about the people you are meeting, how God is providing for you along the way, and how you keep persevering. Praying for strength and wonder!!
Thanks Kelsey. Love you
I’m sorry I have not being commenting on your posts, but Ken and I look forward to them immensely. You often are the topic of our morning conversation, when we consider the current weather and wonder how it is impacting you, and our hope that you made it to a shelter. If we don’t see your blog after 4 or 5 days we start thinking about contacting Lori to see how you are doing? We love getting your updates and we are tracking you on our AT map when we get each update. Your blog brings the AT to life, I always imagined it was a strenuous hike, ha, ha, ….who knew! I personally love to hear about all the characters you meet along the way, and I had no idea about all the people who pop up to help the AT through hikers, it’s a whole new community I knew nothing about. We may not be vocal enough, but trust me Bill, we’re following your every step and LOVE to read your blogs. Already looking forward to the next one. Be safe. Jane & Ken.
Thanks Jane. You don’t need to comment but it is nice to know that people are interested. I would still write these blogs even if to just let Lori and the kids know what’s happening but it is encouraging to know others like to come along too. Thanks for thinking of me
Bill,
I have been following your posts from the beginning and praying ?? for you and your family since you started your journey on the AT. I love the ending of your posts “never been closer”. Savor every moment of your journey. God bless !
Thanks Jack – can’t wait to be reunited with men’s group. I covet your prayers
Bill:
Thank you so much for the update. I always look forward to hearing from you as I follow your trek in my mind. What a fantastic experience!
It looks like you completed one third of the entire hike which is a heck of an accomplishment already. Wow! Hopefully the weather will improve as you head north.
Keep it up. I am with you in my mind and am rooting for you.
Al
Thank you Al. I hope things are going well for you at home. I think of you two often and am praying for healing. Looking forward to seeing you soon
Bill, I always look forward to your updates. I’ll be praying for God to heal your knee.
Thanks Christopher. My knee seems to be getting a little stronger each day. Prayer is working. Miss the group.
Proud of your commitment and accomplishments already. I know your stories will entertain us for a lifetime (and if you have any Clark blood in you, they will get more exciting with time, too!) we pray for papa every night and Rowan makes us listen to “papa’s piano” – Billy Joel – every day on the way to school. We miss you and can’t wait to have you home! Keep pushing forward, it’s fun to be the one cheering you on while you accomplish your goals after so many years of the roles reversed. Love you!
Thanks Madi. You are a great Mom and fantastic daughter. Take care of my Tug Boat until I return.
This is what made me teary about family in this update. Such joy! Madi, we only met briefly when Erin and I were visiting your mom and dad last summer, and it was very nice to meet you and Rowan. Seeing your dad with Rowan brought me immense joy. She owns him just as my two granddaughters own me (Bill – you know what I mean, Rowan owns you). We are so blessed by our children and grands.
Good morning Bill
Good to hear your knee is doing better. You are making good progress. Nice McAfee picture, that is a grand location. I remember the ponies at Grayson and long horn steer that surprised me. All sorts of interesting terrain ahead, have a good trek. Oh, when you pass into Rockfish Gap, tap the sigh for additional luck, I always do. It there as you climb up to the parkway. Best of trail luck to you. Looking forward to your next post.
Thanks Russ – I will tap the sign for sure. I’ll take all the luck I can get
I love the detail in your posts. I’ve followed many a Trek writer on their AT journeys. So, I understand the struggle to write when you’re so very tired. This stranger appreciates your informative and entertaining posts.
Thanks for the words of encouragement Julie. They are appreciated
The early spring is beautiful, albeit cold, and offers endless views that will soon disappear as the leaves appear. Enjoy it while it lasts! I had a great time hiking a bit of southern Virginia with you and Dash and am now experiencing the trail vicariously through your posts.
Love you brother, tell Dash that Cookie says “Hello”
Will do and Dash (and I) are looking forward to you joining again soon
I completed the Triple Crown last fall beautiful views. As well as completed smaller sections of the AT. I’m always amazed by what God has created.
I still daydream daily of hitting the trail full time but need to wait until my kiddos are self sufficient, in the meantime I’m living vicariously through thru-hikers, gathering up all the wealth of information I can from those who go before me. Thank you for sharing. I look forward to reading more as you journey on and will be praying specifically for your knees. (I too have the same issue.) Happy Trails!
Thanks Cheerio – I appreciate the prayer cover
I laughed when you wrote to the nine people that read my posts! It’s one of the few emails I get that are worthwhile reading.
I think it’s really amazing what you are doing and have accomplished already!! I can’t imagine being on a trail for that long! I love seeing the photos too!
Prayers to you and Lori,
Tammy
Thanks Tammy – yeah Lori is left holding the bag while I’m having all the fun. Something tells me I am going to owe her big. Take care.
I am living vicariously through your hike! Wish I had the opportunity/guts to do the trail. Liking your posts!
Kathy – not sure it takes guts or stupidity. I know I have a lot of the latter. Opportunity is harder to come by but I hope you get the chance someday. Until then – thanks for following
Good morning Bill, just subscribed to be number 10 following you but I have been reading your posts from the get go…I imagine that there are more reading about your adventures than you know of. I’ve been enjoying your posts about your journey and the people you have met whom you have journeyed with and those that have helped you along the way. It is an amazing venture and encouraging that you are able to document the actual PUD’s of your journey..both the good and the rough times, Happy trails!
Bill – thank you for continuing to share this epic adventure with us. This update made me smile about how you have acclimated to the trail, something I don’t think I have in me. It also made laugh at the thought of marauding goats. But mostly, it touched my heart and made my eyes a bit teary as you talked about family. We are so blessed with our families. God bless you, brother!
I’m almost caught up with your posts! They are fabulous!! Thank you for sharing! I pray when my AT experience begins in 2024, I am able to find the kind of support you are blessed with. I look forward to reading more.