Southbound through the Rollercoaster

Years ago in a different life I would regularly draft standardized reports on unusual events.  Known as “situation reports,” they were universally called SITREPs.  A SITREP was written in all CAPS, as the teletype machines they were prepared on used only capital letters, despite the baudot code having symbols for both upper and lower characters.  Supposedly, the transmitted high frequency (HF) radioteletype (RATT) messages were more efficient if using only caps.  Our SITREPs were sent by HF RATT to a Coast Guard Communications Station (or COMMSTA), typically to the ones in Miami or New Orleans.  Many hours after the seizure of a drug-laden vessel or interdiction of a grossly overloaded sailboat, I would knock on the Captain’s Cabin door – almost always in the wee hours of the morning – and have the Captain of our Coast Guard Cutter read and release the message.  I would then climb the ladder to the next deck to review the message with the Radioman of the Watch, who then sent it at the pedestrian speed of 75 Baud over a secure radio system to let others know what this Coast Guard Cutter had done in its remote patrol area.

I was reminded of all this because I am writing a SITREP of sorts early in the morning as I sit at my portable keyboard at the Bears Den Hostel along the AT in northern Virginia.  This one, however, will get to my readers much more quickly than the earlier ones!

Getting Down to Business

My good buddy Steve and I were dropped off at Harpers Ferry, WV, Sunday morning, February 2nd.  With full packs, we climbed the Loudon Heights and made our way southbound.  We had spent the previous two weeks slackpacking southbound from Duncannon, PA, but now it was the real deal.  We stayed the first night at the David Lesser shelter.  It got very cold overnight, and the first loss of our flip-flop hike was my three-liter water bladder.  I had emptied it of some water the night before, but I had not anticipated it freezing solid, and a small crack developed at the bottom of the bladder.  I discovered this later in the day when I noticed soaking at the bottom of my pack.  Luckily, I now know that my waterproof sleeping bag compression sack is truly waterproof!

And into the Rollercoaster

We were off early after coaxing some heat out of our sputtering stoves.  While chilly, a good head of steam lessened the need for layers.  Steve and I often hike separately and join up later.  This was to my disadvantage when I took the wrong trail at a commmunications tower adjacent to the trail.  About a quarter mile later I realized my error and was back on track on the AT.

We soon entered the rollercoaster, a stretch of the trail going up and down ridges along the border of Virginia and West Virginia.  This was challenging, especially when boulder-hopping through parts of them.

While staying at the shelter a PATC trail maintainer told us of a hostel right next to the AT part way through the rollercoaster.  He strongly recommended staying there.  After our first day in the rollercoaster and with tired legs, we decided that a hostel made sense, and soon were registered at Bears Den Hostel.

The Bears Den Hostel – a Jewel of the AT

I may be overstepping my bounds as I am new to AT thru-hiking, but the Bears Den Hostel is a gem.  Located within a few hundred yards of the AT off a well-marked side trail, the hostel is housed in a unique stone building, once the rural retreat of a doctor and his opera-singing wife.  Owned by the ATC and managed by the PATC, the hostel not only has great staff, but it provides an oppportunity to meet guests staying in the overnight room.  We enjoyed the well-stocked store, the laundry, the shower, and the stories of both the hikers and the guests.

Slackpacking Through the Rollercoaster

Rain, high winds and lightning were forecast for Wedensday, March 5th.  We decided that it was a good day for our first zero, and that there was unlikely to be a better place to stay then the Bears Den Hostel.  To make this work we chose to slackpack through the rest of the rollercoaster on March 4th.  We finished those 11 miles, and added another four to get us to route 50 and a convenient place for a shuttle pick-up.  We soon were back at the hostel, with a pizza in hand for dinner!

Backpack Adjustments

My pack had a serious problem – it was too heavy!  On our zero day Steve and I went through every bag within the pack, discussed options, and left a sizable pile on the floor.  I believe 5-6 pounds were banished from the pack, and my wife will soon receive a package in the mail, another service of the wonderful folks at the Bears Den Hostel!

A Great Dinner

Glen, the operator of the Bears Den Hostel, is a former restaurant owner and evidently likes to whip up a nice meal now and again.  We were the beneficiaries of such an impulse.

We had a lovely shrimp and orzo dinner, complete with rustic bread and wine shared by guests that were in the midst of a regional wine tour.  To top it off, Greek music played in the background!  It was a great feast.

Back to Real Trail Life

While Steve and I have enjoyed the respite, we need to get used to shelters and the real trail, so we head out – after one last shower – trekking further south into Virginia.  Luckily, warming temperatures are in the offing.

Hogmaw out.