The First 30 Miles

I understand why many aspiring thru-hikers don’t make it any farther than Neels Gap at mile 31.3 on the AT.

But let me go back to mile one.
Wait…let me go back a little further.

Base Camp, Amicalola Falls State Park

The day before the AT

We arrived at Hostel Around the Bend in Hiawassee early, left our car, and hopped into Bear’s car for the shuttle to Amicalola Falls State Park. Learning Curve came along for the ride and we were glad he did. Both of these hikers had great advice and were a huge encouragement.

Once at AFSP, one of the volunteers there gave everyone a speech of sorts—how to bury your poop, where to find water, and the principles of “leave no trace.”

We registered, were given our hiker numbers, and had our backpacks weighed.

What the…how is my pack 38 pounds?!?

Time for the infamous stairs. All 5,479 of them. Okay, okay, there were actually only 720 stairs, but with my freaking heavy backpack, it might as well have been a few thousand. You know what? The amazing cascade waterfall was totally worth the lactic acid burn in my thighs.

That’s just the upper portion of Amicalola Falls.

Once at the top, we headed for the lodge. If you’ve seen the movie “A Walk in the Woods,” you’ll see a bit of the lodge.

We had dinner, re-packed our packs, and hit the sack.

Michelle from White Blaze Shuttles picked us up early on my start date of 3/23/23, and expertly navigated the old forestry service roads to the parking lot a mile from the start of the AT: Springer Mountain.

Standing at the top, cold wind whipping, I swallowed my emotions (it was too cold for tears).

I’m finally starting my journey…so long in the planning and even longer in the back of my mind.

I signed the log and got a photo. A few minutes later, someone else signed the log and said, “Who is Fortune Cookie?”

I smiled and raised my hand.

She said, “I read your blogs on The Trek!”

Ruth Ann, thanks for making my day!

We made it to Hawk Mountain tent site that night, then to Gooch Mountain Shelter the next. We tented again at Lance Creek and then made it to Neels Gap where we stayed in the hostel.

What was so tough about those first 30 miles?

Day one, the IT band on my right leg started screaming at me only four miles in. I was prepared, however, with IT band stabilizer straps. I cinched those bad boys on, downed some Tylenol and finished the day.

Day two, my hiking was painfully slow, even with healthy doses of Vitamin I (ibuprofen) and the straps.

Day three, I continued to hobble, but the tent site community at the end made it worthwhile. We caught up to Ruth Ann and Charles, Aloha, Alton, Shorts, and Strange Bird, along with about a dozen others.

Day four took us up and over Blood Mountain—the highest mountain of the Georgia portion of the AT—and into Neels Gap.

At the top of Blood Mountain. You can see the IT band straps above and below my right knee.

At 4,459 feet, Blood Mountain is a formidable hiker foe. My legs ache just writing about it. Imagine a mountain that a child might draw…a triangle with a point, steep grade up and down. Yeah, that’s Blood Mountain.

Once at the top, you think, “I conquered it,” but you’re so very wrong. You still have to descend the mountain. Heading NOBO, the descent was more rough than the ascent. Giant slabs of rock, not enough switchbacks, rock steps, tangles of tree roots…did I mention the giant slabs of rock?

Once again, just like last September in Pennsylvania, the rocks tried to kill me. This time, I only slid sideways instead of face down. My IT band straps actually absorbed the impact for my knee. This time, the bruises wound up on my hip and shoulder. By the time I limped into Neels Gap I was ready for a shower, a cold drink, some cheese, a night in a warm building (thank God they have a hostel at Mountain Crossings)…but I was not ready to quit.

Sadly, a couple of the hikers we arrived with…called it quits.

Those are hiking shoes and boots in the tree in front of Mountain Crossings at Neels Gap.

By the way, I will not be ready to quit until I touch the sign at the top of Katahdin.

Thanks to Moose Juice at Mountain Crossings, my pack is 7 pounds lighter. Take advantage of the free pack shakedown when you get there.