Virginia Says Goodbye, Anti-Challenge Man and his Other Observations.

Virginia Says Goodbye

We thought our departure from Virginia would be like saying goodbye to an old friend.  Incredible views and history at every turn left us with a warm feeling for the trail here.  Virginia had other ideas.  

The Roller Coaster

Sign for the start of the Roller Coaster

The last part of Virginia’s Northbound Trail is called the roller coaster.  The AT Guidebook describes this as “a 14-mile stretch of steep climbs and descents with few views.“ Virginia felt differently as they put up a sign advising to enjoy the ride!  The Roller Coaster is hard, not loved by me, but probably good for those testing themselves or their gear.  

Ma Wampus’ Adventure

Maneuvering through the rocks

On one of the many ascents of the Roller Coaster, I could tell that Ma Wampus was ready to roll.  I told her to go ahead and I would meet her at the shelter – off she went.  

As she neared the Sam Moore Shelter, something big moved in the underbrush by the trail.  All day deer would burst out of the underbrush as we walked by and often they would do so within a few feet.  One hiker told us of a fawn running into her, much to the hiker’s absolute delight.  

With Julie Andrew’s voice in her head, Ma Wampus stood back and waited for the magic to happen. Doe, a deer, a female deer…..and then it did.  “Oh crap, oh crap, oh crap,” she thought, as her adrenaline suddenly spiked.  Nature’s bounty was not a Bambi lookalike, but, instead, a full grown black bear.  It was not more than ten feet from her.  

Remembering the Ridgerunner’s bear encounter advice “Be Big”, Ma Wampus raised her hands outwards from her 116 lb frame, in something that almost looked like abject surrender, while slowly backing away.  “No Bear,” she stated in a freakishly calm voice.  The bear was surprised and not happy.  It jumped back, turned toward Ma Wampus and raised a paw.  This move allowed it to pivot and rush back into the rhododendron, snapping the inch thick branches like twigs, as it fled.  

Two Southbound hikers, which the bear no doubt heard as well, came upon the scene seconds later.  They did see the bear in the distance.  Approximately ten minutes later, they were able to tell me about it as a warning.  I rushed to the shelter to tell Ma Wampus, only to hear her story.  We decided to hike the remainder of the day together and to do so until we got into town.  This required a little night hiking, but Ma Wampus did not seem to mind!  

Crossing the VA/WV State Lines

Anti-Challenge Man

We met “Sunshine” again on our night hike.  She was preparing for the Four State Challenge, a grueling 44 mile trudge to hit four states in one day.  My issue with this, like other challenges, is what are you missing by doing this challenge?  In this particular case, you are racing through areas.  No time for sight seeing or sign reading – yeah, that is NOT for me.  I would have missed all the following:

West Virginia

The Potomac and Shenandoah Meet

Most of the trail in WV is in, or around, Harper’s Ferry, a beautiful historic town at the cross of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers.  Harper’s Ferry also has the dubious honor of being the spark that caused the U.S. Civil War.  

Brown’s Last Stand

In 1858, John Brown, funded by Northern abolitionists, violently took over a military armory in order to stage a major slave rebellion.  There have been many slave uprisings in U.S. history up to that point, and they were always very bloody affairs, and not just for slavers. Southern newspapers harped on the fact that Northerners were now funding bloody attacks in the South, which resulted in Southern attempted secession and war.  This action eventually led to Lincoln’s freeing the Southern slaves during the war and Congress’ freeing the slaves held in the North and Western states after the war.  

ATC HQ

Harper’s Ferry is also the site of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.  We got our photo taken here, which will be added to a book of all the people who have completed half the Appalachian Trail.  

Maryland

Hanging out at Raven Rocks

Maryland had us walking through multiple state parks and at least one battlefield.  Elevation was generally much less than previously experienced but the views were great.  

War Correspondent’s Memorial

Our first notable park was Gathland, named after George Alfred Townsend.  Townsend became famous during the Civil War, as he used a relatively new journalism technique: the interview.  Townsend built a mansion on the property and a memorial to the war correspondents, which remains in use today.  

Washington Monument

The next park was Washington Monument State Park, the site of one of the first monuments to George Washington – built in 1827.  This stone tower was used by both sides during the Civil War as an observation post, as it has a great view of the valley below. 

The battleground was South Mountain, and there were multiple parts to it and several interesting stories.  The first major battle here led to the battle of Antietam, the bloodiest day in U.S. history TO DATE!  America experienced its most casualties in one day, not against tanks and machine guns on the beaches of Normandy or Iwo, but in a black powder fight in a cornfield next to a country church.  The second battle of South Mountain occurred after the battle of Gettysburg, the largest battle to occur in the North American Continent.  Both of these battles are within a few miles of the trail, but since I had seen them previously we moved ahead.  

Pennsylvania

Crossing the Mason-Dixon Line

We are still making our way through this beautiful state but have found its meadows, hills, and springs, to be breathtaking.  Here we were also brought through a couple of great parks and even crossed the famed Mason-Dixon line.   

First, we walked through Caledonia State Park, which held the remnants of a vibrant iron works community.  This area was funded by Thaddeus Stephens, famed lawyer and politician from Vermont.  Now it’s a beautiful area with a nice swimming pool, campground, and series of trails.

Voted Best Burger on the Trail

Next, we hit the Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  This park is home to the Appalachian Trail Museum, as well as the Pine Grove Furnace Store.  The store is where the famous half gallon challenge takes place.  The challenge is where hikers celebrate their halfway mark achievement by eating an entire half gallon of ice cream within 30 minutes.  I declined when I saw that they also had the best rated burger on the trail – 1/3 lb, bacon, egg, tomato, and avocado.  After we finished those – Ma Wampus had the same – we ate three pints of ice cream.  

The Boiling Springs Furnace

We then continued on to Boiling Springs where we saw a man made lake used to bottle up dozens of natural springs.  These springs pump more than 22 million gallons of water to the surface everyday.  These springs were vital to the towns iron industry, and one of the old furnaces – 1786 – still stands.  

Boiling Springs – The Bubble

Freak Injury

Ouch

We are off trail today waiting to see the doctor.  Ma Wampus managed to kick up a hornet and get it caught inside her boot.  Yeah, I do not think she could do it again if she tried.  Combined with some poison oak contact, the 98 degree day yesterday, and the sweat from a 20 mile day, her leg swelled considerably.  Urgent care provided some medicine and we have been told we are good to be back on the trail tomorrow.  

Shout outs

Trail Magic – Bonus and Food Mama

Thank you Pete for holding those food parcels for three months!  Thanks to “Patchouli” for sharing her birthday treats on a very warm day.  Thanks to Lisa’s Hostel and the Roses for leaving out water caches on a dry part of the trail. Thank you “Bonus” and “Food Mama” for the gatorades and the Reese’s!  Finally, thank you PATC for the incredible work you have done on this part of the trail and the amazing shelters.