At The End of it All?

Note: this is a very late update from my thru hike of the CT, June 18 to July 18, 2023. This is not intended to reflect current conditions for the 2024 season.

The sunset light found me sitting on the rock island in the middle of Cascade Creek.

After just a half day of hiking out of Silverton, I didn’t have much to think about. I realized in Silverton that I was nearly 4 days ahead of schedule, and so me and Phoenix had decided to slow down for the last 70 miles of trail.

It was entirely unhelpful. After hiking at my max for so long, slowing down to 14’s was just mentally unfeasible. Cascade Creek is a beautiful spot just out of Silverton with a massive, multi stepped waterfall where the trail crosses. As I ate dinner, I took in the rest of the trail to Durango on FarOut. Just Bolam Pass, Blackhawk Pass, a long dry stretch culminating in Indian Trail Ridge, Kennebec Pass, and then the rest of the way to Junction Creek. Finally setting in how close to the end I was, I felt a wave of sadness. It couldn’t be almost over, I was just getting started, right? I made myself some hot chocolate, then tucked in to sleep early, pushing away the feelings for another day. 

Pretty snowmelt early on in this section

I woke up at 3 AM to a sharp yell–

“HEY!” “HEY!” Delirious and not-fully awake yet, I stumbled out of my tent to Phoenix standing looking off in the woods with her headlamp. She had heard an animal outside her tent, and ran it off, not knowing what it was. Of course, our minds went to the worst… mountain lions, bears, ax murderers, etc, but hearing nothing else, we went back to sleep, fully expecting whatever the animal was to be back in due time. I woke up in the morning to more shuffling outside, and looked out, coming face-to-face with a porcupine, of all things. It was trying to chew the salt off of my trekking poles and backpack straps (luckily it was largely unsuccessful). The same as the last 28 days, I slowly packed up camp and began hiking. 

Near Blackhawk Pass

The miles flew by, and suddenly I was standing on top of Blackhawk Pass, steep, stark, and red-colored. (Looking back, I wish I’d climbed Blackhawk Peak, the view would’ve been incredible!) And soon, I was back at camp. Then, I was on the 22-mile dry stretch between Straight Creek and Taylor Lake, following Phoenix’s Lone Peak footprints in the sand. All the while, constant disbelief and denial rolled over me. This couldn’t be almost over. Several hours later found me making a grilled cheese sandwich (with a Jetboil!) on top of Indian Trail Ridge, my last time above treeline. As I looked out over the landscape, cloaked in deep green forests with the high craggy La Plata Mountains ahead of me, and down the long canyon, off in the distance… was Durango. I could see the city, a smear on the edge of a long plain at the edge of the mountains. It really was almost over.

The La Plata Mountains!

Indian Trail Ridge Summit

The rest of the trail was a blur.

Taylor Lake is INSANE

Taylor Lake was hands down my prettiest camp on the entire trail, and the next morning, Kennebec Pass and the Sliderock Traverse were exciting. Cue 23 miles of 90+ degree temperatures, sandy trail, and marauding biting flies. By the time I made it to Junction Trailhead, I was ready for the trail to be over. As I approached the trailhead, the path became more and more wide and dayhiker-y, and then suddenly, it was over. A few obligatory summit photos, a drive into town, and then pizza. It was so surreal. 

The last climb of the trail

I’m finally here!

Over the next few days, my life screeched to a sudden stop. I ended the trail on July 18, but my family coming up to pick me up and hang out in Durango weren’t getting here until the 20th. Phoenix and her family left the next morning, and I was alone again.

What else to do when you’re bored? PIZZA!

So, I explored Durango, bought myself new trail runners, discovered Animas Chocolate Company (sooo yummy), rode the buses all around town, and laid in the park looking up at tree leaves.

Decisions, decisions….

Yummy chocolate!

The buses

Authentic Nepalese Food?

When Mom and Grandmama rolled into town, I was thoroughly bored, and inwardly wishing the trail continued south so I wouldn’t have to confront real life again. But it really was over. 

Mesa Verde National Park!

And thus ended my thru-hike, an “adventure of a lifetime”. But the thing is, I don’t want it to be the adventure of MY lifetime. Someday, I hope to do the PCT, or CDT, or AT, or PNT, or IAT, or GWL, or… the list goes on and on. As I began the long drive back home, one thought was clear in my mind– this is only the beginning.