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300 Zero Days – The Last Word
Kate says we'll be back to finish the rest of Wales next year, after about 300 zeros. Which, by the way, I've always thought would make a good name for a section hiker: "300 zeros,” as in the number of days off until they start their next section.
Day 34: Criccieth to Porthmadog
Today has been a quintessential Wales Coast Path day. We have seen cows, sheep and horses.
A Dreary Day With Two Rescues
Day 33: Pwllheli to Criccieth Hiking Solo Kate made it down for breakfast but that’s likely all she’ll do today. Hacking and horking. Ugh. Poor
Contrasts, Castles, and Caravans on the Welsh Coast
Another Headland & Beach Walk Today’s hike was two beach walks separated by another headland climb, but with more beach and less elevation than yesterday. We said goodbye to Abersoch and our breakfast room golf buddies, who were disappointed we did not get to any of their recommended pubs. Then we crossed the Afon Soch on an old stone bridge above the harbor, and worked our way though a flowery woods down to a long, sandy beach. The tide was coming in, but we had just enough hard sand for easy walking. We’d walked for about a mile, deep in conversation, when I noticed a trail leading inland and realized I hadn’t seen any trail markers recently. The trail app indicated we should be further inland, not on the beach, so we took a left and headed into what turned out to be a huge caravan park. Lost in Caravan Land The beach sand had gotten increasingly loose and deep, so we were happy to trade it for asphalt. After following what seemed to be the main road for a while, we reached a three-way split with no trail signs. I checked the app again. Now we were too far inland but too stubborn to turn around. So, we found a circuitous route to the other side of the park, more or less where we needed to be. While we navigated the maze, we got to see all that caravan parks have to offer. Do We Like Caravan Parks? I wasn’t too happy with this particular caravan park’s confusing road layout, but the homes were well maintained and landscaped. But the contrast between the closely spaced, nearly identical, modern caravan parks and the surrounding 400-year-old farms and pastoral meadows is stark. To me, the caravan parks don’t blend in, like an accountant in a ballet. Practical maybe, but from my perspective on the trail, they stand out and detract. I would have guessed that the locals and Welsh protectionists hated caravans. But we didn’t meet anyone who thought so. In fact, they seemed to appreciate them and the revenue they bring to rural Wales. We were told that people want them and that it’s the only way some people can afford to access the area. It’s the mobile caravans (RV’s) they don’t like. Especially the ones that illegally park and camp on the beaches and drive down the hedged one-lane roads. Go figure, RV’s seem less intrusive to me. The Quintessential Wales View After we made the steep but short climb from the beachside caravan park to the headland plateau, Kate grabbed my arm, asked for her phone (her pants have no pockets, so I usually carry it) and said, “It’s the quintessential Wales Coast view!” A long coastline with cliffs and beaches, green hills dotted with sheep, scattered ancient stone farmhouses, wild flowers, blue skies, and white puffy clouds. If you’ve been following our blog, you’ve seen that photograph more than once. So have we, but never tire of it. But there’s always something new too. Today, we added a lone diver in a thick black wetsuit who, despite early reports to the contrary, was not a seal, shark, otter, or tortoise.
Heaven and Hell on the Llyn Peninsula
The green pastures. The quiet waters. Peaceful paths. Dark valleys. Goodness and mercy. I have all I want. A psalm of thanks and praise arises from deep memories of my Covenanter childhood, and I sing it aloud to the gorse and sheep. I’m so grateful to walk these hills and beaches. What a privilege.
Snapshots of Day 30 on the Wales Coast Path
We have loved Wales. As we can see the end on the actual horizon, we are trying to savor every last bit of this journey before we repatriate ourselves. I hope you enjoy our snapshots.
Hiking to Wales End
Day 29: Porth Oer to Aberdaron Heading Out Alone Again Kate needed a day off. Our slower pace yesterday helped her get through the night, but
Rewarded For Resolve
We started our day sick and wounded, thinking it might be our last one on the trail. We ended it, just as sick, more tired, and not knowing what tomorrow would bring. But the trail rewarded our resolve to hike another day with joy and blessings.
The Third Best Beach Bar in the World
That got my attention. I’d read about the bar and its claim to fame in the guidebook. But the book didn’t say how the bar earned this honor, so I asked our new friend. “Well,” he answered confidently, “It’s right on the beach, in’it?”
Now That Was a Coast Hike
This one had everything. An expected punishing climb. Several sadistically unannounced climbs. And just when we thought it was safe, a bonus climb in an area that less skilled trail builders could not have managed to squeeze one in. Also, some nasty descents, mud, cow goo, rain, wind … hmm, this is starting to read like it was unpleasant. I will start over. Because it was epic.
