Burns, Bluffs, and Blackwater Beaches (ECT Days 59-60)

Navarre Airbnb to Clear Cut Spot (Day 59)

• Hiked Today: 22.9 miles
  • Florida Trail (1,077.7 – 1,073.7 & 1,071.6 – 1,058.1)
  • Stevie Beach Alt. (53.4 – 56)
  • Elgin “Bombing Alts.” (2.8 miles)
• Total Hiked: 1,262.9 miles
• Total Paddled: 99.5 miles

Weather: sunny 55-75°F

I was grumpy today. That, combined with it being mostly road walk, made it so I wasn’t very inspired to write much. Here’s some pics and a brief rundown of the day though 🙂

The morning was nice! For once I took my time getting going and enjoyed my coffee and bed and the many comforts of the Airbnb. 

Once going, it felt good to be heading north. I’d been walking west so long on the FT panhandle that this change was noticeable and got me excited for the next legs of the journey.

There were a few miles left of my beach alternate, but it went quick and soon I was back on the Florida Trail. At that point, it was road walking unfortunately. This should have been short-lived as the trail would be entering into more Eglin Air Force Base property.

Or not…

This is when it became clear I wasn’t in a good mood. I was walking with some day hikers at the time. When we came up to the above sign I went right by seeing a guy in a truck who I figured might have more info. Well, he wasn’t very helpful other than explaining that yep, it’s closed because they’re going to be bombing. Serious, that’s what it was. That was a pretty straightforward and worthy reason for not going ahead I’d say, but what I was hoping is that he’d help me out by looking at maps to see where the closure extended to. He wasn’t really feeling it and that’s when I got frustrated. 

Backtracking, I decided to road walk to the next trail crossing and see if that was open. 

Up ahead, nobody was there telling me it was closed and when I looked at the online map of the Eglin parcels, it appeared open. I also spotted a woman and her dog go ahead, so that was enough for me to continue. And it ended up being nice trail through there.

This popped me out to Highway 87. The trail continued on the other side, but when I’d checked the online map before, this whole chunk was in the red signaling closed. Thus, I started trekking along the giant super highway. In my grumpy Stevie state, it wasn’t fun. I found a random asphalt spot to sit in the sun and have my lunch…

During my lunch break, I decided to call the number for the Eglin recreation permits. After talking through it and finally getting across where I was and where I wanted to go, she filled me in that FT thru-hikers have an exemption through that corridor. Nice. Good to know, eh. So at the nearest chance, I cut away from the highway and went back to pleasant trail for a while.

At the end of the day, I was essentially looking for the next available spot to camp. The problem was I was in a subdivision and needed water anyways. While pondering this, to my rescue came some nice folks that were out hooping it up (playing basketball) in their driveway! While chatting, I asked if I could fill my bottle from a spigot. The nice guy went inside and filled it up for me! This was the boost I needed to finish the day out and soon I found a spot after tucking into the woods again.

Not my day, but the trail leads onward!

Album of the Day:

“Kind of Blue” (1959) by Miles Davis 

Started Audiobook:

“Freedom Is A Constant Struggle: Ferguson, Palestine, and the Foundations of a Movement” (2016) by Angela Y. Davis 

Clear Cut Spot to Blackwater Shelter 2 (Day 60)

• Hiked Today: 25.5 miles
  • Florida Trail (1,058.1 – 1,055.7)
  • Blackwater Connector (0 -23.1)
• Total Hiked: 1,288.4 miles
• Total Paddled: 99.5 miles

Weather: 47-77°F, sunny, clear

Elevation: 21 – 220 feet

Something I’ve been learning about myself the past few years is how to be more in tune with my body and my mental state. I can’t pin-point when this awareness journey began, but likely during the time following my divorce and the start of my first thru-hike. So much of my life changed then. I think trail life offers an alternative pace and rhythm to that of the default world and maybe because of this it allows one to pay more attention to feelings and emotions.

As I mentioned above in yesterday’s post, I had been tired and grumpy. I did not know if today would be better or not, but I suspected if I got good sleep, I’d be rejuvenated in spirit. This prediction came to be true and right away in the morning, I was energized and interested in all of it again. Sleep is powerful.

The trail was pleasant and it was a nice day. This always helps too. But even something like this little side trail to check out the Cypress lined backwaters… a day like yesterday, I would’ve tromped right on past, whereas today, I was intrigued to go check it out.

The smell of burning and a haze of smoke clouding the air was present this morning. As someone with asthma, I wasn’t a huge fan of this and hoped it’d pass quickly. After only two miles or so, I came to a monumental junction.

At this sign post, I’d be veering away from the main FT! This is the start of the Blackwater Connector trail. It is still part of the Florida Trail, but mostly ECT’ers that take this way as far as thru-hikers go. So it kind of felt like I was leaving the rest of my Florida Trail friends behind, which was a sad thought. I had heard many folks say they plan to bop up to start the AT though, so you never know.

I hoped the smoke might clear veering of this direction. Yeah, that wasn’t happening…

The trail followed along Burnt Grocery Creek, which was aptly named seeing as it was actively burning! I mean, kind of a fun coincidence, but to be honest it’s not surprising that it’s burning. So much of the forest in this area was burning or had evidence of been recently burned. The Floridians take their prescribed burns seriously, I guess.

Here’s crossing I-10 for the last time (I think), which thankfully offered me a reprieve from the smoke lands.

Leaving my bnb the other day, I’d resupplied thinking there weren’t any other stores for 4 days. I was surprised to see one I’d missed this morning. It was just a small convenience store but it worked out great because I had underestimated the number of tortillas I had left. Surprisingly, they had some. I got the last pack! And, I enjoyed second breakfast outside at this awesome picnic table.

At one point a little boy and maybe his grandma came and sat down. It was great being by a little human. I don’t get that very often anymore seeing as my nieces and nephews are all growing up! He told me he was hunting for sticks and that he could tie his shoes and that they were good shoes for running around. Sounded fun to me. You may have noticed I try to embrace my inner child out here, tuning into my curiosity and imaginative playful side. This kid has it right. He reminded me to keep it simple some times.

Post breakfast the trail wound through more nice forest. More nice trail, but I’d been mistaken about the smoke being gone. I don’t think it was from the same source but there was a general haze about for most of the time through here

Later on in the morning I got my first look at the Blackwater River. I thought it was quite lovely and without hesitating decided to take a swim. There was a beautiful sand beach and the water itself was clear-ish copper colored with a sandy bottom. This would be my coldest swim of the past few days though. It was to the point where after wading in to my shins I changed my mind about going all the way under. Then I found a nice deep hole and couldn’t resist, but even so it was a one and done, quick in and out.

I continued another few miles then took a lunch break at Alligator Creek. Didn’t see any gators around. It was another one of the clear watered sandy bottoms style that seems to be the norm here in the northwest of Florida.

In the afternoon, I lost my energy a little. I could feel the pack weight. Apparently you can tell the difference if you choose to get a full peanut butter jar and a full honey bottle and a full 8 pack of tortillas.

I had expected the trail to be in view of the Blackwater more for some reason. I’d looked ahead at this section way back because I wondered if it might be kayak’able. Anyways, it wasn’t that the trail wasn’t nice, just was hoping for more river. I did go along Juniper Creek for a while and that was impressive. Pretty wide for a creek and very clear and sandy bottomed haha.

The highlight of Juniper Creek was actually on shore though… these awesome orangish red bluffs! Did I transport myself to Bryce Canyon?

Nearing the end of my hike the trail entered into the sort of classic National Forest style woods. It had been burned at some point, but life was coming back and so it had an interesting mix of colors going on… green, black, and orangish red. The lighting was nice too and it was calm and I spotted some deer.

Camp was at a shelter, although I just set up next to it seeing as there was some debris and stuff in there. It was pretty small too. I got in at a good time and enjoyed my time there, relaxing out on the picnic table while the sliver of a moon came up. A good day.

Podcast of the Day:

“The Bag Game Episode 3: The Sting” & “The Bag Game Episode 4: Plausible Deniability” – 30 For 30 Podcasts