Camino de Santiago – Week 4

Day 22

A short day ahead (10.2 miles) to give Betsy’s knee more time to heal. We didn’t get up until 7 after most of our fellow pilgrims had left. The breakfast spread topped the list thus far with coffee, milk, cereal, croissants, muffins, cheese, salami, Spanish tortillas, and biscuits. What a feast! At 8, we bid adieu to Renaldo, the friendly volunteer host, dropped Betsy’s pack at the bar across the street, and set forth on a gravel two-track along Hwy N-120. Lots of traffic especially semi trucks. A trio of Civil Guard on horses passed by. Not clear what they were doing. A mile before Hospital de Orbigo, our path veered north away from the highway. In town, we crossed Rio Orbigo and its floodplain on an old (Roman?), long stone bridge. As we walked toward Villares del Orbigo, light rain fell, prompting Betsy to don her rain coat. By the time we reached town, the rain stopped. We split a coffee and ate bananas at a cafe. As we left, the rain returned and intensified. Betsy put on my rain pants to keep her physical therapy knee tape dry. The rain, dark clouds, and white clouds created a dramatic sky. We ascended a hill then walked down to Santa Baneto. At 12:30, we found the Camino Frances albergue on the route and checked in with the cheerful host. Betsy’s knee was happy. We were the first pilgrims to check in so we both got lower bunks in the corner away from the door. Lunch of bread and cheese. We scheduled accommodations for the remaining nights to Santiago. Word has it that it’s often hard to find beds close to Santiago at the last minute. As always, we’re happy to be here.

Day 23

Two serious snorers last night tag-teamed the pilgrims in the room. Cold air coming on the window led me to put on my down jacket. Eventually, I fell into a fitful sleep. Up at 6:30, packed, and downstairs at 7 for coffee and our own food for breakfast. After a photo of us with the albergue hosts, we set forth in 42 F morning air. Both of us had our rain coats and gloves on, plus Betsy had her tights. In spite of the cold, the soft morning light illuminated the grassland and forest along a wide gravel road. We gained elevation slowly past oak forest, dropped down a bit, then back up to Crucerio and into San Justo. Few locals and fewer pilgrims were about. We crossed Rio Tuerto and climbed into Astoria. Lots of people downtown including kids waiting for an outdoor chess tournament using outsized pieces. We walked past the Gaudi-designed Pilgrim Museum and the cathedral. The latter was constructed of a mixture of orange or gray stones, which gave the building a goofy appearance, in my opinion. We bought food for lunch and tomorrow’s breakfast at a supermarket and walked out of town. The 5-mike walk from Astoria to Santa Catalina (our destination for the day) passed by extensive areas of oak forest. The forested, gently rolling terrain contrasted sharply with that of the past two weeks. We bought coffee at a bar in Murias de Rechivaldo and ate our lunch of bread, cheese, avacado, and apple sitting in the sun. Onward to Santa Catalina where we found Hospidaria San Blas albergue at 12.6 miles today. Not the most modern or tidy establishment but for 10 Euros each we have no complaints. We’ll eat a pilgrim dinner (probably lentil stew with bread, meat, dessert, wine) at the albergue. Big day of climbing tomorrow.

Day 24

Snorting last but not too loud. Up at 6:30, packed and downstairs for coffee, granola, and yogurt for breakfast. Out the door we walked along a lightly used paved road under chilly, blue skies. Both of us had our rain jackets and gloves on to keep from freezing. We gained elevation slowly through a landscape of shrub oaks and tree oaks that were leafing out. We passed through the village if Gansol and continued uphill enjoying pink heath and yellow Spanish broom shrubs. We stopped in Rabinal for coffee, a croissant, and a rest. The grade of our climb increased as we headed toward Foncenbadon. We ate lunch in front of an albergue and met Polly from Pennsylvania who’d just walked 16 miles from Astorga. Quite a feat. She was done for the day. We headed uphill past a profusion of pink, yellow, white, and purple flowers. Numerous pilgrims started at Raninal to reach the iron cross (cruce ferro) in a mile at the highest point on the Camino. Pilgrims leave rocks or other objects at the cross to symbolize letting going of past and present hurts and bad experiences. We continued west with grand views of forested and shrub-covered steep hillsides. Lots of flowering shrubs and wildflowers. The last few miles featured steep descents on rocky stretches of trail, requiring constant attention to avoid slipping and falling. I put on my right ankle brace to increase my prospects for an uneventful walk into Acebo. A hundred people were drinking and chatting at bars when we arrived. Where did they come from? We walked through town to Casa del Perigrino, an upscale albergue with a swimming pool. After checking in, we got our bunk then showered. Getting clean greatly improves group morale. After resting, we had a delightful communal dinner with hikers from Canada, Belgium, and South Korea. A long and delightful day.

Day 25

We ate a hefty breakfast of coffee, hot and cold milk, granola, yogurt, muffins, cheese, and ham at the albergue at 6:30. Well fed, we began our descent toward Molinaseca moderately at first to Rigio de Ambros then steeply at times. The trail sometimes followed vertical strata of slate that trended downhill. Our descent would have been treacherous if the rock was wet. Interesting, roofs in this area were made of slate rather than tile. We crossed Rio Marvello and followed a narrow street in Molinaseca to a bar where we had coffee and rested. Our route continued past upscale houses toward Ponferrada but veered south away from town for a ways. I saw the first live snake of the trip. The route turned back toward Ponferrada and crossed Rio Boeza. We saw large garden plots on the river’s floodplain. A climb took us into the city and to Castillo de Los Templaros dating from the 1200s. The castle looked every bit the part with turrets from which defenders could shoot arrows at attackers. We ate lunch across the street from the castle. Onward through the city descending to Rio Sil and a tree-shaded walk along the river. A climb took us to an old power plant repurposed as an energy museum then into residential suburbs. We continued west into countryside with large-lot residences often with big, irrigated gardens of potatoes and other veggies. We saw few pilgrims today but overtook a few near our destination, Camponaraya. We found La Media albergue. A large party was in progress and the staff was too busy to check us in. Finally, we got our bunk, showered, and washed clothes. In retrospect I wish we would have gone to the other albergue in town, because La Media is too noisy. Unsure what we’ll do about dinner.

Day 26

We hit the trail at 7:15 without breakfast because none was available either in the albergue or in town. The 3-mile walk to Cacabrelod ran through wine country with vineyards everywhere plus buildings that processed grapes and bottled wine. In Cacabelos, we bought coffee and a croissant and supplemented that with granola, yogurt, bread, and cheese. We crossed Rio Cua and climbed slowly to Pieros then to Villafranca and another sit-down with coffee. We left town being careful to stay on the main Camino route and to avoid the alternate route with lots of climbing. Our route ran along the edge of lightly used paved Hwy N-VI, which paralleled new Hwy A-6. The new highway was elevated in many places, reminiscent of I-70 in Glenwood Canyon in Colorado. Very expensive! The riparian forest along the old highway provided habitat for lots of bird species. I chatted with South Korean hiker Che Lee as we walked. Betsy, Alice, and I ate lunch at a water font just shy of Pereje. There we met hiker Greg who lived in Fernandina Beach, FL, where Betsy’s family has a vacation home. The last 2.5 miles of the day featured piles of chestnut tree logs piled beside the road. One of those standing chestnut trees was 5 feet in diameter. We later learned that this area is the best location for chestnuts in Spain. We found albergue Casa Susi (she is from Australia) and checked in with the friendly host, Fermin (from Spain). Nine single beds, no bunks, dinner from the garden, and breakfast tomorrow. I volunteered to weed the garden. Betsy’s left knee continues to work well, thanks to PT in Leon. All is well.

Day 27

Pleasant sleeping weather last night with minimal snoring. After breakfast of granola and yogurt (no coffee), we set forth on a gravel path under cool, blue skies along a ridge.The route generally followed lightly traveled Highway N-VI. Sometimes the route ran through forested tunnels and sometimes through pastures with grazing milk cows and expansive scenery. We saw frosted vegetation in open areas. Lots of flowers bloomed. A literal high point featured workmen replacing electric cables on 100-foot tall high-voltage towers. In the five villages we passed through on our way to Triacastela, we followed trails of cow flop from nearby fields to milking barns. No idea where the milk went – no signs of tanker trucks or cheese making. From Biduedo, the path steepened for nearly 1,800 vertical feet and required extra care to avoid slipping on loose rocks. Into Triacastela for a short coffee and bathroom break then on for a mile to A Basa and El Beso (the kiss) alberge. We met the owner, got our bunk bed, and shared our lunch with two young Danish women. The 16-bed albergue is full tonight. Dinner at 7. Yet another delightful day.

Day 28

Pleasant sleeping weather last night with minimal snoring. After breakfast of granola and yogurt (no coffee), we set forth on a gravel path under cool, blue skies along a ridge.The route generally followed lightly traveled Highway N-VI. Sometimes the route ran through forested tunnels and sometimes through pastures with grazing milk cows and expansive scenery. We saw frosted vegetation in open areas. Lots of flowers bloomed. A literal high point featured workmen replacing electric cables on 100-foot tall high-voltage towers. In the five villages we passed through on our way to Triacastela, we followed trails of cow flop from nearby fields to milking barns. No idea where the milk went – no signs of tanker trucks or cheese making. From Biduedo, the path steepened for nearly 1,800 vertical feet and required extra care to avoid slipping on loose rocks. Into Triacastela for a short coffee and bathroom break then on for a mile to A Basa and El Beso (the kiss) alberge. We met the owner, got our bunk bed, and shared our lunch with two young Danish women. The 16-bed albergue is full tonight. Dinner at 7. Yet another delightful day.

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