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Camino Frances Day 11 Santiago de la Calzada to Belorado and The Flu
What Had Happened Was…
I have put off writing this post and the last few probably because I’m still in denial. Bottom line up front I returned to the United States after spending seven days sick in hotels in Spain. I returned home through Madrid Spain, Paris France, and Lethbridge Canada. Upon arriving home I spent an additional 11 days sick and not leaving the house. To this point I have completed 140 miles of the Camino Frances and that is enough to earn my Compostela certificate. I will return to Spain in September to complete the unfinished portion of my pilgrimage or possibly start again in St. Jean Pierre de Port France. Upon arriving in Lethbridge Canada, I took an Uber to the Coutts /Sweetgrass border crossing where my wife would pick me up. It was -14°F when I crossed the border on foot at 10:00 PM. Having walked the last few hundred yards from where the Uber had to turn around the border agents were to say at least a little curious as to how I got there and where I was going. And let them know about my flights my Uber and my ride waiting across the border. After my passport was handed back to me told the border agents that every bit of my sense of humor wanted to let them know that I had the plans to the Death Star in my backpack. I kept my smile from beginning to end on this journey.
For now I have finished sorting and weighing gear, and packing the first 3 resupply boxes as I will begin my NOBO journey on the Continental Divide Trail in less than three weeks. I have committed to myself being more timely in both my blog posts in my YouTube videos on this next through hike. I hope you’ll join along with me.
Last Day on the Camino Frances
I woke up feeling very tired at my hotel in Santa Domingo de la Calzada. Since my sleep pattern is not good anyway, I attributed it to possibly a lack of sleep or not the appropriate sleep. I walked out of town at first light and eventually met up with two pilgrims who I had not seen yet. There was a nice gentleman from Bavaria and a very personable young lady from the Czech Republic. I had seen her two days prior from a distance when she was taking a nap in one of the vineyards. Good choice. The first town along the way was Grañón. Much of the path getting there was along a busy highway which added to the not so good feeling. I had intended to stop in Grañón for something to eat, but did not feel hungry and walked on through.
The path from Grañón to Castiledelgado was on one side agricultural and farm road on the other was the same four lane highway. I had started to lag behind the other two pilgrims and feeling a bit worse by the hour. I stopped at a restaurant in Castildelgado To get some fluids being a little food in me. Determined to push through I got back on the path and it was slightly rolling terrain and an overcast sky. Truthfully I do not remember much of the last 6 miles to Belorado as I was staring at the path. I made it to my destination and caught transportation back to Santiago de la Calzada and the hotel that I kept reserved. I did not know that this would be my last day on the Camino Frances (for now).
I spent two more nights with no improvement and made the decision to catch the municipal bus to Burgos. I was determined that I could continue on and went to the athletic shoe shop that I had found in burgos to buy the spare pair of trail runners that I would require further down the path. The times I left the room where for groceries, take out food, and the post office run. I referred to the hotel as Base Camp Burgos. On the third night I did not feel any better and made the decision to return home.
Base Camp Burgos
Cathedral in Burgos
Onward to Santiago de Compostela…I’ll Be Back
I had to go to Santiago de Compostela to retrieve the box that I had forwarded from Saint Jean Pied de Port. At 4:00 AM I got a taxi ride to the municipal bus station for the 8 hour journey to Santiago de Compostela. The bus was comfortable and mostly unoccupied. The trip was not a direct route, but went northward to the coast and back down. When I woke up in for palm trees I thought I may still be sleeping.
The bus station in Santiago is very nice. I put my pack on walked out into the rain to Casa Ivar Where are my packages waiting. As luck would have it it was in the old part of town and close to the Cathedral. The surrounding area is one beautiful historic building upon another. After walking the surrounding streets, I came across the most beautiful Cathedral I have ever seen. Awe inspiring is the best I can muster to describe that beautiful structure. Having not much energy remaining I went to the pilgrim’s office and they registered my journey, stamped my pilgrims passport, and let me know that I would get the mileage certificate when I returned. A rather inglorious end for my first Camino. Having walked back to Casa Ivar to retrieve my belongings I discovered I had to wait an additional 2 hours because of siesta time. A few doors down was a nice restaurant where I pondered over A 4 course meal until time was up.
The representative at Casa Ivar was kind enough to call a taxi to take me to the airport where I napped on and off until checking in my flight from Madrid. The flight was short and I got to my hotel at 1:00 AM. Six hours later return to the airport from my flight to Paris. Another night in hotel at the airport, a late checkout, and a long flight to Canada. This is definitely not the way I wanted it to end, but sometimes things are is there supposed to be.
While on the CDT I will be engaged in learning Spanish better as I was not taught in the home growing up. Additionally I will focus on my spiritual health and what walking the Camino Frances means to me. Much work to be done. Thank you so much for following this part of my journey and I hope you will follow my journey on the CDT and my return to the Camino Frances this year.
Final Thoughts
“No matter where you go, there you are”
—The Adventures of Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
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Comments 10
Well I’m sorry to hear that you weren’t feeling well. I’ve really been enjoying your photography. I’ve never been to Europe! I look forward to reading about your experience on the Continental Divide. Take good care.
I’ll be posting in about 3 weeks. The gear is weighed and packed, and resupply boxes are being put together. I’ll try to keep posting good pictures and my videos are on Youtube @farsidehiker. The trail is calling again!
Hello! I’ve enjoyed following your journey and I am so sorry to hear that you got the flu. I appreciate your pictures and ending quotes. Take care and hope you feel much better soon! 🙏
Hi Sylvia! Much better now! All packed for the Continental Divide Trail and ready to be out in the wide open. My views from home in Montana are wonderful and I will miss home. The idea of telling people that I’m just walking home appeals to me. I’ll try to stay healthy as possible and thank you for following my adventures.
I really enjoyed following along your travels. It looks like it was an awe inspiring experience. Good luck with the CDT. Will be waiting for your posts.
Hello Janet! In less than three weeks will be my first post and video from the trail. Looking forward to the experience and sharing it with all. It might seem daunting at first as I have two tours in the desert and they aren’t great memories so I just need to keep my head right the first couple of weeks.
Glad you are home and able to recuperate. Take care of yourself . On the CDT, do not worry about keeping up with the posting of your journey. We, at home, can be patient and will enjoy the posts whenever they happen as we enjoy your writing and your perspective. Thank you for sharing.
Ellen,
It is a joy to share the adventure and I plan to long hike as long as my body will sustain it, and then I will bike it. It was a bit of recovery and the end provided a happy moment. The people I’ve met and those I’ve share with are what makes it memorable. Thanks for following me!
What glorious photos, from landscapes to townscapes. I have just subscribed in hopes of seeing more. Thank-you.
Thank you Alexandra! The accompanying videos are on Youtube @farsidehiker. I don’t make money from any of it and do enjoy sharing the beauty out there. Thanks for following me!