Camino Frances Days 9 & 10 Navarrette to Santa Domingo de la Calzada

Slowing Down and Enjoying the Beauty

I had planned on going from Navarrette to Santa Domingo de la Calzada in one day. My plans went astray immediately in the morning when I saw the buffet at the hotel San Camilo. Derek and I leisurely took in breakfast followed by taking a few extra minutes on the grounds. It was a fairly flat walk out of town on a nice gravel road set between miles of vineyards. The ages of the vines varied and you could tell some had many years behind them. When you see the occasional bodega and the machinery you understand the farm to bottle process that the grapes take. I’m sure I will return to the Rioja region as there is a peace to be found there and the closeness of community. 

The first stop of the day was Ventosa. We went into a nice bar to warm up and have either second breakfast or elevenses. It was quiet, clean, and lots of natural sunlight coming through the windows. The sandwiches at these small places have been invariably delicious. None of the patrons seem to eat and run. They tend to linger, enjoy conversation, and relax.  That is one of the things I miss about living in Europe. There were two interesting works of art on the way into Najera. One was a long-haired child facing away from the viewer looking out to the fields. The second was an elderly woman in what looked like a stone church staring at a glass encased figure that looks much like the imagery of Jesus. They were both very detailed and beautiful!

A little bit of uphill on the way out of Ventosa and back into some of the flat vineyards. The geography changed after a while and you could see open fields with brush and the mountains in the distance to me it looked like approaching Colorado Springs from the east. That took me back to some good memories from my youth.

Najera is a beautiful town. We walked in and found our alburgue and we were the only patrons. It was somewhat cold outside and the same temperature inside. Our host directed us upstairs to one of the bunk rooms and offered us a room with four beds in it and a heater. Looking back not taking that room was probably a mistake. After dropping my pack I found one of the local grocery stores and it was an amazing place. Full disclosure I got fussed at for filming in the store. I should have asked “con permiso “, with permission, first. Lesson learned, I think of it as the sin of getting caught.

It was a restless night with the cold room and needing to eat and take in water every couple of hours. When I loaded my pack and left in the morning it was beginning to get light out. No café to be found open on the way out. After passing the Monastery I met up with four pilgrims I had walked with previousl. We hiked within sight of each other for some amount of time. It was hard not to as you could see miles of the path we were on. It remained this way for most of the day. The terrain was much the same as the day before rolling fields and vineyards and the beautiful mountains in the distance.

The view was wide open and I know I keep saying it, but the view was amazing. One pretty cool feature was the the raised concrete aquifer spanning along one of the vineyards. The amount of engineering and effort it took shows a true dedication to the craft. If they approach Santa Domingo de la calzada there was an interesting park it was a monument to the bridge builders. In the distance you could see the Spires of the church and the rooftops. I was considering going to a town about four miles past Santa Domingo de la calzada, but I was feeling a little weak and tired. Did not know if it was from the restlessness or the long walk.

 On the way into town I made arrangements to stay at a hotel with a good rating and great price. After resting a while they ventured out through the town to find groceries and to see the beautiful buildings churches scenic strrets, and of course the cathedral. That was the extent of my evening. For a not so long walking day I felt strangely exhausted. Tomorrow is a new day.

Final Thoughts

 “The oak fought the wind and was broken, the willow bent when it must and survived.” — Robert Jordan