Camino Frances Winter 2025 St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

First Steps on The Camino Frances

After a quiet night at hotel, La Villa esponda in St. John Pied de Port I was up before daylight, getting ready to start on the way. I walked over to the church and set a quiet prayer, stepping through the archway down the road across the river to the first sign pointing to the right for the winter route Through Valcarlos seemed slightly surreal. I hadn’t pictured it in any given way, but it was still not what I expected. The sun came up and it was only five minutes into the days walk before I peeled two layers off. While still chilly it was perfect hiking weather.  I walked into the countryside. Having a herd of horses and mules at home the ambience of the first few miles through the agricultural area was very familiar. In no time I had reached the circle that marked the border of Spain and France. I spent a few minutes having a nice conversation with both French and Spanish police.

Crossing the French/Spanish Border 

There is a store there that I would recommend stopping to get a few things to get you through the day. You can buy most anything. The altitude had continued to rise over the course of the way to Valcarlos, but it was gradual enough to be very bearable. The route wandered along the road and the river and occasionally ducked into the woods. One notable thing I encountered was a small set of buildings, looking suspiciously like they would fit into an episode of the Flintstones.  Stopping in Luzaide/ Valcarlos there are so many things dedicated to the Camino Francis. Such as the cut out metal silhouettes of the pilgrims. I had been tracking an English gentleman for a few miles before we met. It was nice to sit and chat with him and we continue to keep pace together up till about 2 miles out of Roncesvalles. The altitude continued upwards as we again wandered into the woods past so many interesting stone buildings and a fountain clearly marked untreated water.

Final Push Up The Mountain 

Again the path continued upward until reaching the Puerto de Ibaneta which is a modern Chapel honoring Roland and Charlemagne. The last bit of downhill to El albergue de peregrinos de la Real Colegiata de Roncesvalles was truly welcome. The attendant processed me quickly, gave me all the information about meals and services, and then directed me to the dormitory where I would be staying. There were seven other pilgrims there from various parts of the world.

Since I had prepaid  for breakfast and dinner there were no other decisions to make. The meal at the restaurant were three simple and delicious courses. After dinner I spent time in conversation with Cyril from Switzerland before turning in. A good first day on the Camino Frances!

Final Thoughts
Not all who wander are lost.” — J.R.R. Tolkien