CDT: Finishing the “S” Through Montana and Idaho

The 300 miles of border trail stuck mostly to the Divide which took me to high peaks and rolling meadows. I didn’t hear much about this section from other hikers nor did I spend time researching it before I started so I didn’t know what to expect. The things that stick with me the most are the incredible ridge walks, the painful ATV trails and the time spent with other hikers. Accompanying these highlights was constant backdrop of bugs and cows.

Chief Joseph Pass to Leodore

This section had big climbs and big views from ridge walks on the Divide. The trail also brought me back to an area that I had been in over six years ago.

The day after my trail legs magically sprouted I was climbing again – his time up to two saddles over 9,000ft. The trail ascended through forest and fir coming out into rocky sections where switchbacks deposited me onto the high point. I’d look around, snap some pics and then predictably the trail dropped down the distance I’d already climbed and I’d start all over. The views were unquestionably beautiful – sparkling mountain lakes took center stage. But there were long stretches where I walked in a cocoon of trees and could see nothing else.

Later the trail descended to Goldstone Pass and right back up to the Divide where I stayed on the ridge line for a while. I traipsed along the narrow edge admiring the 360 degree views and congratulating myself on my hiking prowess.

“I am the greatest hiker in the world – I’m basically Andrew Skurka,” I said to myself.

I came across two gentlemen in their seventies…and their dirt bikes – they were lost. I gave them directions and they gave me Gatorade and trail mix. Good trade but later I worried that they were lost again and had given me their only food!

One day the mountains to the east and west were obscured by smoke – only vague outlines showed through the haze.  I took a side trail to the Sacajawea Memorial and filtered water from a spring. The memorial was nice if a little underwhelming- but it was a quiet shaded place that I could have sat at all day. I almost stepped on a  rattlesnake partially hidden under a sagebrush. Shortly after I saw a bear with brown fur run across the trail. I hadn’t thought about bears in a while and suddenly I was on full alert.

I forgot about the bear as I climbed a rocky dirt road that rose steeply for miles. For a while I was on a tree lined ridge  that would suddenly open to meadow and the views were incredible.  It was on this ridge that I paid close attention to every tree I passed. I was looking for the spot where I had been photographed six years earlier. I had been on a hunting trip with family in the valley below and we had climbed up to the trail. We had taken a photo by a tree with a CDT marker on it. At the time I had never heard of the CDT and couldn’t imagine I would ever be capable of hiking it. Now six years later I took another photograph by the tree and looked down on the now snow-free bowl where I had a memorable hunting experience with family. Never thought I’d be on this trail but here I am.  Pretty neat.

The smoke became worse overnight. I could no longer make out the mountains in any direction. I learned later this was from a fire in Idaho and the Park fire raging in California. I arrived to Bannock Pass where a trail angel shuttled me into Leodore.  This was the first time since I started the hike that I had to manage my own resupply and transportation. I was definitely spoiled by the support the family had given me.

I stayed at the Mustang Inn in town. It was not quite a hostel but similar. The owners had moved from the East Coast to start a new life in Idaho. They wanted to create a welcoming space for hikers and they nailed it. Leodore’s downtown was an only few buildings which made getting around easy. I worked through my chores: eating, charging electronics, downloading maps, planning next mileage goals, updating blogs, cleaning equipment (my filter was gross), doing laundry, showering (I was also gross) eating again, and organizing food for next section. A bunch of hikers were at the inn – the first time since Glacier that I was around so many. Interesting bunch and I loved the enthusiastic conversation. I left energized.

Leodore to Lima

The terrain in the next stretch was markedly different. Periodically I’d be in trees but for the most part the trail wound through open grazing lands on rocky ATV roads. The smell of cow poop coated the inside of my nostrils.

I tackled a climb to the peak of Elk Mountain. At 10,177 feet it is the highest point so far on the CDT for SOBOs. The climb was pretty good- nicely graded trail with a gentle slope. The wind was whipping up top and the views were awesome despite the lingering smoke. Several hikers at the Mustang Inn had decided to hitch further down the trail to avoid the smoke but it didn’t bother me.

Less fun was when the trail transitioned to a rocky ATV road for over 10 miles. The road rose in long steep sections followed by steep downhill. I found it tough and could feel my morale plummeting as I trudged along. To make myself feel better I periodically stopped to bang my trekking poles on the ground like a toddler having a tantrum in a supermarket. My feet grew sore after walking on the fist-sized rocks and tripping on the uneven ground. I stopped once and looked up at the sky and screamed like a maniac. On the plus side the wind kept the temps cool and the bugs away.

Later the trail left the road to cross through rolling, green hills (some quite large). This was so different from the rocky jagged peaks or fir- lined forest that seemed to dominate the last few weeks. The trail was barely visible; I hiked cross country navigating by cairns. It was so interactive that I had a blast. Again I felt like an invincible hiker until I was confronted by a new enemy. No mosquitoes tortured me but the deer and horseflies were a menace. Every time I stopped I was like King Kong swatting at helicopters.

One day thunderstorms were on the agenda. I wanted to make it over the high ridges before then. The trail was mostly single track over the rolling hills covered in sagebrush.  Lots of cows and cow poop- and flies. The storm hit 3.5 miles from camp. The temperature dropped quickly and the rolling thunder and lightning flashes were dramatic. I was wet and cold when I finally found my site. I pitched my tent carefully between piles of cow poop- so gross. Bundled in my sleeping bag I ate mashed potatoes and tried to ignore the poop smell. The storm cleared out right before sunset.

The sky was clear blue on the last day in this section. The air smelled of cow poop, wet dirt and sagebrush – true trail perfume. The trail was mostly east now – Wyoming in the distance. I walked a ridge for 12 miles, the trail rising and falling steeply in a series of PUDs- but the views were worth it. Below on the slopes I saw a sheep herd and wondered if cow poop would soon be replaced by sheep poop.

Then it was a 7 mile road walk to I15 where me and other hikers caught a shuttle to Lima. 

Like Leodore Lima was a three-building town but those three buildings had everything I needed. I enjoyed a good dinner of grilled cheese and a hamburger and fries at Jan’s Cafe with other hikers. Jan was the waitress, cook and cashier and she did it all with a smile. Two of the hikers were NOBOs. I listened raptly to their stories about the Winds and Colorado and told them about my adventures in Glacier and the Bob. I managed a so-so resupply at the Exxon convenience store (building #2) and a quick load of laundry before bed at the Mountain View Motel (building #3).