Days 16-18 on the Continental Divide Trail

Enough is enough and I could wait no longer for my resupply in Reserve. With the help of a new friend, Juan, I was able to find my way back 40+ miles to Trail. It was nice having someone give me some history of the area where his family has been for so long. When I’m finished with all of my hiking this year, I will come back to New Mexico to be able to enjoy these places.

I may even make it a point to come down during chile harvest time. If you want a great culinary and sensory experience go to New Mexico during harvest time near one of the markets or supermarkets where the chile roasters are fired up and roasting chile by the bushel to perfection.
Juan is an old cowboy, and he pointed out a set of corrals where he had helped move thousands of cattle through. Having cowboyed some in my life I know that it’s tough work. Juan dropped me off and I began the long march north.

Day 16

 if you are taking the Gila Alternate get used to being on Bursom Road. It is not exciting nor varied, it is just necessary ground that you have to walk to maintain your path. Eventually, the flat and open ascend upward for trees in the occasional bit of shade are waiting for you. Once again, the altitude gain becomes noticeable. Let me say again carry plenty of water on this stretch when you leave Middle Fork.

The path from Snow Lake to the north end of the Gila alternate is approximately 26 miles and makes for a long day. I would say it’s worth it to put in the extra effort. Toward the end of this section, there are two noticeable hairpin turns in the road the first one is Dutchman Spring. The water was clear and filtered easily and here is where you will want to load up. There’s additional 500 feet in altitude gain to the northern boundary. This happens very quickly and was tiring at the end of the long day. It was here that I met two nice gentlemen that were antler hunting and had a brief chat before moving on. I found a nice flat spot to pitch my tent and call it a day. Another goal reached.

Day 17

My goal for the day was 20 miles to get to Highway 12. This was not to be as I took a couple of unscheduled detours. The first one turning down a forest service road and then having to wash bush whack back up to the trail. Cost me a couple of miles in about an hour and a half of time. The road less traveled and all that. The forest varied from thick to open, and the trail was good most of the way and could be easily followed. Walking at 9000 feet the expansive views were simply beautiful. It almost made me forget how tired I was.

The Govina Canyon Alternate seemed like a good idea. Seemed like. The trail was easy-going for the most part there were times when it was difficult to follow and the water sources almost nonexistent. The stock tanks were dried areas of dirt where water wants sat and probably will again after the spring rains. The one source I did find was filterable and had no off putting taste. My back up filter did all it could to give me 2 liters. The altitude and trail slowed me down more than I thought it would and I figured I would just continue walking into the night. Once the sun went down, I put on my headlamp and was going to do just that. However, that portion of Trail was hard enough to follow during the day andI decided just to pitch camp. The full moon was so bright that it felt like someone was flashing a light into my tent most of the night. Morning would come soon enough.

Day 18

I love myself to sleep in a little bit and began the final miles to the highway with about 2/3 of a liter of water left. This did not bode well as the heat of the day came quickly. The descent off of Wagontongue Mountain what is 1000 feet of elevation drop and makes you concentrate on what your feet are doing. Again, the views are just amazing. Normally I try and reserve at least one cup of water until I reach the next water source and it’s unable to do so on this day. So by the time I reached Highway 12 I had been out of water for about two hours.

I took an alternate to try and get to the CG No. 7 tank in hopes of finding some usable water. The road to it was good in fact it had been well groomed in parts as there seem to be some logging that has taken place. The tank itself was dry, and I continued walking and at one clearing, I was able to catch a glimpse of the highway. One last push and onto the road. I was hitchhiking in both directions. I would take a ride to Reserve or to Datil. My rescuer and bringer of water was Don Kearney who owns the Toaster House Hostel in Pie Town. He drove me the 47 miles to Datil and dropped me off at the Eagle Guest Ranch hotel which is co-located with the restaurant and convenience store. I thank God profusely secured a room and had a good meal. The last few days were a little challenging. My body felt pretty sore and I was glad to have a place to lay my head indoors.

”There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle.” Albert Einstein