Day 1

We walked directly out of town onto the Red line. We had a rutted trail with a few dead trees and a very steep embankment to navigate. After 10 miles or so we entered Glacier National Park. The trail widened and was easier to follow. We walked a total of 22 miles and gained 5400 feet elevation. It was a big day given that sunrise is after 0700 and sunset is 1940. We saw many beautiful mountains and forests and a large bull elk.

We walked with Red, Coffee Break and Gandalf all day. We took turns leading and calling out for bears. Gandalf took a nasty fall and lost some skin but no major injuries. 

The weather was perfect. It was 70 degrees, sunny and calm, not a cloud in the sky. Everyone was in a great mood from the weather change and the knowledge that we are so close to completing our goals. 

Day 2

We slept for 11 hours and had two leisurely cups of coffee in the morning. There was a herd of mountain goats climbing a cliff in the distance. 

We crossed the Triple Divide Pass where snow run off splits to the Arctic, Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. It was a long but relatively smooth climb. There were a few tight ledges and tall rocks to step up. We relaxed at the peak for 45 minutes in the warm of the afternoon sun. The rest of the day was a forest descent to the river basin. We passed many cascades and a few streams. 

We saw no bears today but we are making a lot of noise to frighten them away. We passed some day hikers and a few backpackers. Flintstone is hiking with his family and passed us heading to their camp in the evening. 

The weather is perfect mid 60’s and sunny with no wind. I believe the fantastic weather will continue for the week. 

Day 3 

We said our final goodbyes to SP, Hot Sauce, Wilt, Peach Pit, and Fresco. They are finishing in three days. 

The objective today is a 20 mile round trip for groceries and a town meal. Our campsite is only half a mile from yesterday so we have created a critical side mission. 

We received some trail magic at St. Mary’s restaurant. A lady purchased us some whiskey for celebrating at the border after overhearing Weasel’s conversation with the bartender. 

The trail was mostly flat all day and we made record time to St Mary’s Village and back. 

I had a bison burger, a salad, and fries and Weasel had a steak sandwich, fries and a salad. It was a fantastic change of pace. 

We arrived back to camp before dark and had a couple of hours of campfire time. The first campfire of the entire trail. We roasted sausages and marshmallows over the fire instead of eating dehydrated meals. 

Day 4 

We left camp after a leisurely breakfast and double coffees at the shocking hour of 0900. 

We have 15 miles and 2100 ft to the next camp at Reynolds Creek. The weather is perfect mid 60’s and blue skies.

The trail followed the St Mary’s Lake shore all day. We walked through overgrown thimbleberry bushes and forest. We passed a few lovely streams and waterfalls. 

It was surprisingly jarring to walk amongst the throngs of day hikers near Virginia Falls. We are used to being alone on the trails. 

I felt a range of emotions today. I’m a little anxious about all the tasks that need to be completed upon our return. I also feel a little conflicted about leaving the trail. We have been pushing so hard towards a specific goal for many months now. The days are physically difficult and require mental focus for completion. We leave camp with a daily goal, understanding food needs, and water sources. I’ve gotten used to digging deep, physically pushing past my limits and it feels strange to not hike for 10-12 hours. Now we are arriving at camp with extra energy and a bright mood.

I’m not sure how the transition off trail will go concerning maintaining fitness and making new long term goals. 

Day 5

The weather was perfect again today. Mid 60’s and not a cloud in the sky. 

We first walked through dense overgrown forest. The next stretch was a spectacular ridge. We received some trail magic. A lovely couple from Kalispell gifted us some fresh plums from their garden. 

We then crossed Piegan Pass which was breathtaking. There were many streams and waterfalls to view across the ridge. We saw five bighorn sheep down below. 

The downhill was fast and we entered more dense forest. This part of the forest was more muddy than overgrown. 

The springs tasted really fresh today and we all commented on how good the water tasted. 

The campground at Many Glacier was crowded with RVs and car campers. They have to reserve camping spots years in advance. Thru hikers and cyclists have their own designated walk up space, which is thoughtful. 

Weasel was able to Yogi some beverages for the group. We all sat around the last campfire of the trip and talked about our favorite parts of the trail. 

Day 6

We experienced another perfect weather day. Sunny and mid 60’s. The forecast is for snow the day after we finish so we definitely need to keep moving. 

The trail to Ptarmigan Tunnel was spectacular. There were many craggy mountains, deep green forest and well crafted switchbacks. Ptarmigan Tunnel is a feat of CCC engineering. The traverse was loose red slate with a lot of exposure. 

We ended the day at Elizabeth Lake which is beautiful and has nicely developed campsites. 

We walked for only 6 hours today and relaxed in the warm autumn sun next to the lake. I had waves of gratitude while climbing the switchbacks. Gratitude for good health, good fortune, safe passage, and all of the friends we visited with and met along the trail.

The campground was busy with other groups of hikers and we visited with a dozen of them in the evening. I think our group became a little overstimulated and we all wandered off to gaze at the lake before sunset. 

Hiker midnight came early at 7:15 pm.

Day 7 

We had double coffees and breakfast bars with the dozen other hikers in the morning. We all answered many questions about the trail, logistics and our gear choices. It’s interesting to be an expert backpacker now. 

The weather was perfect yet again. It is very windy today and clouds are covering more of the sky. The window of warm weather is coming to a close. 

The trail was a little wider and less overgrown than yesterday. We passed by a beautiful waterfall and had a snack break. 

We are all enjoying the slower pace and less miles this past couple of days. The nagging aches and pains are lessening rapidly. 

Tonight is an early dinner and early to rise for the last morning at camp. We have a 23 mile day tomorrow to Waterton and are planning a nice celebration at the border obelisk. 

Last day of the trail 

We all woke up before dawn to pack up for the last time and eat a quick breakfast. We commented that it was like Christmas morning and we couldn’t sleep because of the anticipation. 

The trail was fast and although overgrown we made excellent time. The last climb up Stony Indian Pass was moderate and beautiful with many cascading waterfalls. 

The descent had some chunky sections but was also smooth. We had a permit check by a friendly Ranger who congratulated us. 

Our last snack was at Waterton Lake in the Gazebo. We crammed in some smoked almonds, and coconut bars. 

The obelisk appeared after a nondescript turn of the trail and Red and Gandalf were waiting patiently for us to arrive. 

We celebrated with some cheers and the trail magic whiskey that Weasel was gifted at St Mary’s. We took a few pictures and set off for another 5 miles to Waterton.

The town of Waterton is cute and compact. We all had celebration dinners and dessert at a beautiful lakeside restaurant. 

I haven’t yet accepted that we have finished the trail. It feels like another trail town and zero day. I feel happy to finally let my body rest and heal. I’m definitely looking forward to more nutritious food over the next few months. We have not set the next adventure but are actively thinking about it.