How to time travel and a hidden brewery on the CDT

111 – the last bear on the CDT

The Gila hot springs campground is still quiet and sleepy when I take down my tent and stuff my quilt into my pack before walking past the goats and back onto the road, returning to the Gila.

No one warned us

All the FarOut comments described the bushwhacking and water crossings north of Doc’s, no one warned us about THIS SECTION. It was 10 times worse. 

“Arghhhh”, I am yelling at the CDT out of frustration. Though, there is no actual Continental Divide TRAIL here.

The course of the Gila and the shore must have changed so much over the seasons and years, that whenever you’re on trail according to the map and GPS, you’re standing in the middle of the river or bushwhacking through the densest, thorniest bushes you’ll ever see on this thru hike.

At times, there was a faint trail, a spur, but often it would disappear or I couldn’t find it after crossing the Gila once again.

“This is so slow!”, I sighn, the CDT ended at the river shore and the opposite is nothing but thick thorns. My bare legs are covered in scratches.

You’re not a dog

Compared to the previous section, the Gila here is a little less rewarding, adding to my frustration. Just before the CDT leaves the river, a faint spur leads through dry, golden grass, where I spot a pair of ears.

Fluffy ears. But that’s all I can see in the tall grass.

I walks towards it, slowly. The animal doesn’t move, is this a lost dog?

I get even closer and see the round head, unlike a dog, but it still doesn’t run away while I get closer to it.

“Are you a bear?”, I ask the dark, furry thing and only then, the bear remembers it’s supposed to run and disappears into a nearby cluster of trees.

They’re funny, the black bears. They always seem lazy, like they’re thinking “do I really have to leave because of this human?”. And usually, even after running away, they’ll stop and turn around to look at you, almost as saying “is that far enough now?”

I hadn’t seen a bear since Steamboat Springs, CO and thought I wouldn’t get that lucky again on the CDT.

112 – the last thru hiker on my CDT?

After abundant water on the Gila alt of the CDT, we’re back to long, dry stretches and rationing water. A clear, cold springs amidst a burn scar almost feels like a mirage.

The previous day I had a nasty fall, my foot has started hurting since and I’m in the middle of taping it up when a figure emerges from between the pines.

“How much did you hate the bushwhacking in the southern Gila?”

“Eventually I just walked through the river”, Inspector replies. I nod, me too.

We hike together towards Silver City and I’m once again reminded how fast he is. I wonder if he’s the last thru hiker I’ll see on the CDT. Everyone I know of is either behind me or has already finished. Just before town, we split up and I resupply alone before walking along the highway towards the very final sobo trail town of the CDT: Lordsburg, New Mexico.

Silver City is probably worth a stop, but I scheduled a job interview so inconveniently, I have two options: Going fast or double zero in Silver City. I choose fast.

Shoutout to Gatsby for the Ravenswing shortcut!

113 – the hidden brewery

I’m sleeping longer than usual and the sun is already illuminating the little, hidden brewery when I emerge from my tent: Ravenswing.

Paige and Gabe have created a peaceful, colorful place that invites visitors and thru hikers to rest in the shade and enjoy a cold, homemade beer or non-alcoholic fizz. The beer garden is filled with artwork, chairs and hang out spots. A big, furry dog is sniffing my dusty trail runners while I gather my belongings and fill up my water bottles for the next stretch.

Thru hiker’s friend: Vitamin I

I’m dragging myself up Burro Peak, the pain in my foot is progressively getting worse. Just before the highest point, I pull out a ziplock bag with little red pills*. Compared to the PCT, where I had days that I was completely unable to hike before “vitamin I” kicked in, I hadn’t had many issues on the CDT. Except for tiredness, a few harmless blisters and itchy mosquito bites, I have been thoroughly healthy on this thru hike. *knock on wood*

I swallow two pills with a gulp of warm water, filtered from a murky cow through. Thankfully, there’s a water cache at the trailhead below. One of many, necessary caches towards the border, maintained by the wonderful trail angels – big thank you!

Don’t ask me if the view of Burro Peak is scenic or anything. There’s a small voice in my head saying: ‘you should enjoy this, it will be over soon’ but it can barely cut through the exhaustion and pain. 

*I’m not a medical professional but please don’t munch pain killers like they are skittles 

114 – from the CDT to the future

I switch on all the lights in the dingy hotel room, tuck my hair behind my ears and prop my phone onto the little trash can from the bathroom. This is the least professional job interview setup I’ve ever done and the best I can do on a thru hike. It’s 6 am in New Mexico, 3 pm in Europe.

Afterwards I watch the sun rise over the Econo Lodge parking lot. Everything is heavy, my muscles, my mind, the whole world seems to be resting on my shoulders today. 

“Are you closed on Monday?”

“Sure am, Miss”, the grey haired post office clerk replies.

“Then I guess I have to pick up my stuff today. There should be three packages?”, I hand him my passport, god knows my surname is too complicated to spell. Like a miracle, he reappears with all three packages.

Post from the past

The dented cardboard boxes are time capsules. Each one of them sent mid thru hike with stuff I no longer needed. I carefully rip open the tape: my grey leather hat, full-weight fleece, puffy, waterproof socks (plotwist: didn’t work for me at all?), spare tent stakes, long trousers, a linen town shirt with flower print.

If you wanna time travel, go thru hiking. 4 months will feel like years. In a good way.

Lordsburg doesn’t have a laundromat, so instead I prepare a soup in the bath tub. Stewing my shorts, shirt, underwear and socks in a milky brown concoction of hot water and cheap white hotel soap.

CDT – powered by nerds

Aimlessly, I wander between the shelves, picking up foods and setting them down again. Does it even matter what I eat at this point? Resupplying has lost its allure and I have lost my creativity. 

I smile, thinking about the first few weeks in Montana. All the forbidden foods that feel justified on a thru hike: cookies and gummy bears, ice cream, peanut butter cups, Nutella, bagels. Plus as a European, the joy of exploring supermarkets in a foreign country. My favourite snack discovery during the CDT: Nerd clusters!

The sunset is painting the sky in shades of orange and pink by the time I carry my groceries back to the hotel. Repackage everything into ziplocks ONE LAST TIME. I feel ready.

I’m not relieved that it’s over, like I was on the PCT, instead I’m glad. The timing couldn’t have been better. I’m getting tired but not too tired to enjoy these last days. The last rituals.

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Comments 2

  • Vince : Jan 17th

    Your writing style reminds me of Jack Kerouac. Very interesting. Fair winds and following seas on your future journey’s.
    Vince aka The Dude, SOBO, LASH, A/T, ’16-’18, and beyond.

    Reply
    • Speedy Pinecone : Jan 17th

      Hi Vince / the Dude, thank you – not sure I feel deserving of that feedback 🥺 I loved “on the road”. Happy hiking!

      Reply

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