Ice Caves, Craters, and Snow—Oh My!

Leaving Pie Town was harder than expected.

After days on the trail, we found ourselves in a little haven: warm beds, a kitchen to cook real meals in, and all the simple luxuries we rarely enjoy out here.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Pie Town’s Toaster House,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “The Toaster House Front,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “The Toaster House Kitchen,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “The Toaster House Gathering,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “The Toaster House Shoe Wall,” May 2025.

It was the kind of place that tempts you to stay just one more night. But the trail has a pull of its own, and before long, we were packing up again, heading toward Grants, New Mexico.

Back to the Wild: Choosing the Red Line

Many hikers take the alternate route from Pie Town to Grants. It’s shorter and usually better for dodging tough weather. But we were craving something a little more adventurous and the chance to see the lava flows and ice caves was too tempting to pass up. We committed to the Red Line, the more rugged and direct route along the official Continental Divide Trail.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “FarOut CDT Route,” May 2025.

As we set out, the skies were moody. A storm was sweeping across the area, and we could feel it coming. But that only added to the wildness of it all.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Neapolitan Staring Into The Fog,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Weathering the Storm,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “CDT Wooden Sign,” May 2025.

Hiking in snow, rain, and even hail forced us to be more present. It also reminded us that nature doesn’t care about our comfort. It only offers raw beauty, and it’s up to us to adapt.

Hiking teaches us that hardship and beauty coexist in every step.

– Unknown

Storms and Serenity

The stormy conditions brought unexpected joy. Cold wind rushed through the trees, snowflakes danced in the air, and the trail felt alive.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Hiking in Snow” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Waking Up to Snow,” May 2025.

Every break in the clouds, every sliver of sunlight became a gift. There’s something deeply moving about watching rays of sunshine break through after a grey, wet morning. It made us appreciate the land in a whole new way. And with each moment we would quickly draw out our wet sleeping bags and tent hoping it would be enough sunshine to dry our things.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Resting My Feet,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Drying Our Gear,” May 2025.

And in the midst of the cold and clouds, we found wonder. Massive lava fields stretched in all directions—black, jagged rock frozen in time. The ice cave, with their eerie chill and crystalline air, were surreal.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Neapolitan and Brainstorm in Cave,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “The Ice Cave,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “The Lava Fields,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “The Crater,” May 2025.

We ducked into a small general store nearby. It was warm and welcoming, with snacks, drinks, and even a friendly cat who curled up beside us as we relaxed.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Ice Caves Store Front,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Carmel the Cat,” May 2025.

That moment of warmth and connection felt like a reward after the miles we’d covered.

The Beauty of an Alternate Route

Rather than push a full 30-mile day into Grants, we found an alternate route from the ice cave that cut our day down to 26 miles. It wound through quiet woods, with tree coverage that filtered the late-day sunlight. The views were incredible with rolling hills, open skies, and a stillness we hadn’t realized we missed.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Grants Signage,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Sunrise on Town Day,” May 2025.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Sunny Road Walk” May 2025.

The final miles turned to pavement, which always takes a toll on tired feet. But the steady ground let us pick up the pace, and before we knew it, we were entering Grants.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Road Walk into Grants, New Mexico,” May 2025.

Rest, Reprieve, and Reflection

There’s no joy like that of arriving in town after days in the wilderness. We ate big meals, picked up packages, took long, hot showers, washed our clothes, and collapsed into beds that didn’t require inflating. Most importantly, we took a zero. Our first one in 15 days.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Hiker Breakfast Shenanigans,” May 2025.

Fifteen days of nonstop hiking had worn us down more than we realized, and taking a full day to do absolutely nothing was the kind of luxury we didn’t know we needed. And yet, even after all that rest, it still never quite feels like enough.

But maybe that’s the point. The trail keeps you moving—physically, mentally, emotionally. And it’s that rhythm of effort and reward, struggle and serenity, that makes this journey unforgettable.

Learnings

• Don’t be afraid to brave the weather. Sometimes the storm makes the experience richer.
• Alternate routes can surprise you. The less-traveled paths often hold the most beauty.
• Soak in the small comforts. A warm store, a soft cat, and a hot meal can lift your spirit more than you think.
• Rest is part of the journey. Zero days aren’t lazy—they’re essential.

Stats in the Wilderness: 

Temperature Range: 29°- 68°

General Location: Pie Town Alternate to Grants, New Mexico

Indigenous Land: Pueblos & Núu-Agha-Tʉvʉ-Pʉ̱ (Ute)

Whose land am I on? Learn why it’s important to respect the land we travel on.