First 100 miles on the CDT

„Have you seen this?!“

Within one hour of the CDTC email going out, multiple messages were sent and received. The A-word has dropped:

Avalanche warning for Glacier National Park.

I stop layering protein bars into my resupply boxes to read what’s going on. Stefan sends me a Reddit thread, comments on comments about hikers delaying their starts, locals affirming the conditions in the park. We were meant to start hiking in 3 days.

A quick study of the map shows we could still road walk if conditions aren’t matching our skill set. I text Stefan: “should we just go and try?” He agrees.

Going in: terminus time

And Saturday afternoon we’re standing in St Mary’s. “Hey there, we’re here for CDT permits?” We ask a young ranger. “Yeah no problem, where do you want to spend the first night?” He pulls out a paper map

We agree on a short first day, 6 miles to gable creek camp ground and then tackle a pass every day. The ranger plays a bear safety video for us, we pay and then we’re walking over the parking lot to our driver.

Next stop: Canadian border! 🇨🇦

The monument is, underwhelming. A beton column, while a Canadian officer offers to take our picture and the American officer watches us warily. Last year at the pct terminus I was excited, it felt like the beginning of an exciting, enchanting chapter. But today, I just wanna get it over with.

2 hours later we reach the campground, set up our tents and Stefan practices his bear hang. It looks hard.

I’m in a bad mood, why is the start of this hike so disappointing? I feel empty, bored, uninspired.

After shutting my bear can and wishing an early good night to the other campers, I crawl into my tent. Pull my quilt up under my chin and stare at green fabric that’s gonna be my home for 5 months.

I’m asleep before the sun goes down.

Yet I’m the last one to get up and shuffle into the cooking area of the camp. I fish a protein bar from my bear vault and then we set off into the mountains.

Facing the snow 

First pass: Red Gap Pass.

As soon as we leave the valley behind and climb higher and higher, my mood changes. Ragged mountains surround us, grey and white. It reminds me of Washington but warmer and my feet aren’t hurting from 2,400 previous miles.

There’s barely snow up there and Stefan and I enjoy a lunch break in the sun, before we descend to Many Glacier. We haven’t seen a single other hiker so far.

The camp ground in Many Glacier is usually fully booked and with reservation only, is empty except for two dyneema tents. Smoke is coming from that site too.

I peek around the corner. Two men, one wearing a sun hoodie, the other micro fleece. Thru hikers!

Now it starts to feel more like a thru hike. Excited to have company we all sit at a weathered picnic table, beers and empty Talenti jars between us. Sharing trail stories and rumours about the upcoming pass: Piegan. A sheet of ice, someone had said.

Piegan, Triple Divide and Pitamakan

The following days are a testament for how quickly conditions change in the mountains. None of the pass were impassable. Some were hard and required route finding, but I didn’t use my microspikes for traction nor needed my ice axe. The spring sun was spoiling us with beautiful weather, while the wintery conditions kept day hikers away: we had the trails to ourselves.

I decided to leave the others behind and plan my first big day: Triple divide pass and Pitamakan. From Reynolds to Two Medicine, 38 miles in one day.

When I tumbled into the still closed campground, it was way past 10 pm. Exhausted and out of food, I pull my quilt over me. It’s too windy to set up a tent.

Hungry Hiking

By 5 am my stomach wakes me up. There’s a little store at the lake front. After packing my things I’m heading down. Opening hours: 8-8. I check my watch: 6:15.

By the time they open, I can be halfway to East Glacier. Where my resupply waits.

I ignore my hunger and decide to start walking. Now I feel like a hungry grizzly, grumpy I force myself to scenic point.

The wind picks up and gets worse the higher I climb.

At times I need to crutch down, before the gusts trip me over.

It’s cold. My ears hurt. I get a headache.

How long can these switchbacks last? How far is east glacier? I check my maps. I’ve barely made it 2 miles.

I am so exhausted, but I know I have to keep going and soon, I’ll be in town. Belly full of food, stretched out in the sun. Maybe I’ll stay the night at the hostel even. Take a shower. A hot, relaxing shower.

But for now, one foot in front of the other. Hike, Maja, hike!

It takes forever, before suddenly, houses appear between the trees. I’m here!

At the general store I buy an eclectic combination of Dr Pepper, an apple, barbecue chips and the probably best pecan roll of my life.

I sit out front with my treasures when to young men rock up. „CDT?“ they ask and I nod, „you too?“ they look a bit too clean but maybe they’re just starting. „Nah, we drove up from idaho to bring a friend to the start. Moosey, she’s fast. She’ll catch up to you.

Are you staying at the looking glass. You should check it out!“

And then they wander over to the Amtrak station.

Looking glass base camp is like they said. A wonderful homey hiker spot. Foam pads are spread inside the building that used to be a restaurant, tents are pitched outside. Hikers are welcome to cook in the industrial kitchen  or shower in the little house outside. Someone said it reminds them of the Lions Den in Mazama. And my heart gets a lil heavy thinking back to the PCT.