CDT:The Anaconda-Pintler: No, it’s not a snake

Butte was behind me. The trail was now going northwest which somehow made me think I was going backwards. I had a wonderful zero with the fam at the Fairmont Hot Springs, resting my body and eating (all the time). So it was with some reluctance that I said goodbye to them at trailhead and headed into the next section: the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness.

Dirt roads and cows are a CDT staple

The wilderness didn’t start immediately. First, I walked through pastures and meadows and then I was on road for a tedious few hours. I was feeling a little melancholy after leaving the family. If I’m by myself when I go off trail to resupply and clean up I’m focused on trail chores and planning. Back on trail I’ll think longingly of running water and comfortable beds but I don’t feel sad. When I’m off trail with family or close friends I still do trail chores but I also enjoy the connection with people who care about me and keep me safe. Getting back on trail I can’t help but feel lonely for a bit until I get back into thruhiker mode.

I finally got off the road and entered the wilderness. The forest was lovely. I crossed over dozens of small springs and creeks; for the first time in five days I had plenty of water. I arrived early evening at Seymour Lake. The lake appeared suddenly at the top of a climb, and it was surrounded on three sides by tall mountains. Some still had snow up in the passes and it was absolutely beautiful. I was the only person there so I had my pick of campsites. I set up my tent quickly and went to sit by the lake. There was a gentle breeze coming off the water which kept most of the mosquitoes and bees away, I soaked my legs in the cold water. Instead of finding loneliness in the solitude I found peace.

No fly zone at the lake

As soon as I left the lakeside I found a shit ton of mosquitoes and bees. I dove into my tent and glared at the swarms of bugs circling my tent like miniature birds of prey. Nature sucks sometimes.

I had never heard of the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness but it definitely left an impression. For the first time on the trail I would climb high and descend even further and I would do this many times a day. On my first full day in the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness I climbed to 9300 ft where I walked the open meadows Goat Flats and had sweeping views of the Pintlers ahead of me and Upper Seymour Lake behind me.

I saw no goats at Goat Flats but I still thought it was awesome

I plunged back into forest for 1000 ft before climbing Rainbow Mt. Then a 1500 ft descent and a climb back up to Cutaway Pass at 9000 ft. One more time down and back up to Warren Lake.I was exhausted and humbled when I fell into the tent that night too tired to even pick a fight with the bugs.

Not to be confused with Rainbow Pass

The pattern repeated the next day with a morning climb up to Rainbow Pass at 9,250 ft.

Beautiful day to climb up to the pass

Another descent through lodgepole pine forest and then a steep ascent to a ridge in a burn area. I was 36 days and over 500 miles in but I didn’t think I had my trail legs yet. I stopped several times on the ascents to rest. But the overused saying “the views are worth it” was totally true. I stayed in the burn area for the rest of the day as the trail continued its up down rhythm. I saw my first NOBO hikers; they were strong and focused and had the end in sight. They fired me up with their determination.

Eery burnt sentinels

I transitioned out of the wilderness over the next day and a half. Most of the trail went through burned areas; the trees looked like blackened spears reaching for the sky. The ups and downs evened out and I was able to make good time on the trail. 

I cruised the six miles to Chief Joseph Pass where my family was waiting with my resupply. I scarfed down Chik Filet nuggets and a footlong Subway sandwhich while I packed my food bag. This was the third ontrail resupply from my family and I felt completely spoiled. Their trail support meant I did not have to make my way to a town to resupply. This saved me time and kept me on trail longer between stops. While it meant I went longer between showers the uninterrupted trail time helped me stay focused. I was going to miss this support when I hit Idaho.

My lovely niece knew exactly what to bring for resupply