The Road to Anaconda (days 13-18)

Day 13

Today I woke up completely soaked in condensation. Should have seen that coming with all the water nearby, but I there’s no way I was moving from this spot after reaching it last night. I used the socks I wouldn’t be hiking with to dry as much of the condensation as possible and tied them to the outside of my pack so they’d dry in the sun. Today I had about 26 miles to get to a camping spot that I could potentially hitch into Lincoln from. We would see.

It was a hazy day, meaning views were limited, but the haze helped keep the sun’s rays at bay. Today’s climbs were somewhat tame, but I climbed to over 8k feet for the first time. I didn’t feel any different than how I had about a week prior at around 7000 feet elevation. Great news! Water has begun to become a sparse out here as the water from the snow melt dries up. It hasn’t been a huge problem yet, but I decided I need another water bottle to allow me to carry one extra liter. Definitely trying to get into town tonight.

Towards the end of the day, I ran into the first SOBO I’d seen on trail for a while, CJ. This is his first thru hike. Exciting! I let him know I’d probably see him in town even though he was planning to stay at a hotel. The bar in town allowed hikers to pitch a tent out back, so that’s what I’d be doing.

I made it down to Rogers pass around 4:30 and almost as soon as I stuck my thumb out I got a ride! My ride was from Lincoln and recommended the Lincoln Pitstop, so that was first stop! I ordered a double cheeseburger and fries and when I went to pay, they let me know the person in front of me paid for my meal. Luck seems to be on my side after recent hawk/storm events.

I wish I could have thanked the burger buyer, but they left before I even knew they’d paid. On the off chance they see this, thank you!! The burger was phenomenal.

After dinner, I went to set up at the bar, called my brother (who may join me in trail in a few weeks!), and talked to my parents. I then went into the bar and got 2nd dinner. The burger at the Lincoln pitstop was better, but I had great company at the bar!

While there, I met George. He worked near Roger’s pass and had to be at work by 4, but offered me a ride to the pass if I could be outside the bar by 3:30. I told him I probably! It would depend on the sleep I got, but I’ve been itching for a big day and this was a great opportunity.

Day 14

I woke up at 3 feeling like I could use a couple more hours of sleep, but I was ready to go. I always have a difficult time falling back asleep after waking up and figured it was better to get walking than to lay there. I quickly got all my stuff together and was waiting outside the bar at 3:20 when George pulled in. He made a quick stop at the gas station where I bought a new water bottle and then we were otw to Roger’s pass!

The first 12 miles or so didn’t exactly feel real as the sun was just beginning to rise. I like hiking before sunrise. It makes the miles go by faster and the weather is usually pleasant. It is, however, spooky! I always feel as if a million critters are watching me from just behind the nearest tree and today was no different.

Today was a fog fest and a little but rainy. Really no views to be seen all day, but again, if you can’t see the trail in front of you the miles do seem to fly by. Today didn’t have any massive chunks of elevation gain or loss, but I was slowly exhausting myself as I continued on. I was hoping to catch booster and rocket by pulling a big day, but I ran into NOBO “Crusher” about half way thru the day and he informed me that they had camped together at the alpaca ranch the previous night. Geez! They were hiking some big days. I was sad I wouldn’t be seeing any other SOBOs today, but if I made it to the ranch at least I knew I was only a day behind and would get a great nights sleep.

The day was really not that exciting until I got to camp due to the rain and fog. Once I finally made it to the end of an about 7 mile road walk I came upon the alpaca ranch oasis! It was owned by Barbara and John who refuse to take money and instead ask hikers and hikers to “pay it forward” in the future. They offered private rooms, sandwiches, and sodas. Amazing!! I met a few bikers and 2 nobo hikers upon arriving there and we got to know each other over some sandwiches on the front porch.

After my longest day on trail yet, I was wiped and went to sleep just about as early as in was able. I would need more of it if I hoped to catch rocket and booster!!

Day 15

Leaving the alpacas this morning was difficult. I could tell my alpaca friends were sad too as they sorrowfully bleated as I walked off. Today’s hike would be pretty much entirely road walking. I had to go about 13 miles to rejoin the CDT, but then I would hike on the road around the Macdonald pass closure and into elliston. It was the same number of miles by trail and road and the road was said to have much more water. There was only one or 2 water sources the whole way into town via the trail.

I didn’t plan to resupply or anything in elliston, but the reroute took me right in and I could set up my tent behind the general store. At least I knew I’d have water access.

I wish today’s hike had been a little more exciting, but it was just a lot of walking in the direct sunlight. I did pack out a sandwich from the alpaca ranch which was delicious! Other than that, I made friends with some cows which was exciting.

Once arriving in Elliston, I got right to the general store and set up my tent. The owner, Kate, let me know about a nearby swimming hole. After a few days of intense heat, a quick dip in some cold water sounded excellent so I headed that way. The water was deep, cold, and refreshing! After about an hour there, I headed over to the restaurant next to the general store for some provisions.

While at the restaurant, I met Jessie and his son, Chris. They had both grown up in the area and had many local stories to share. Talking to residents of the towns I pass through has been the best part of this trail so far. Everyone has been so kind and quick to invite me to their conversation. Another local, Mike, who works at the bar often hunts for gold near the trail. He recently found a rock with a vein of gold running through it that he sold for about $2k!

Mid chat and after finishing my delicious sandwich, I felt my hamstring cramp up like it never had before. I stood up to straighten my leg and before I knew it I was on my back staring up at the bar ceiling. Quite an embarrassing experience, but I was grateful for the people around me. They ran to grab towels and water and electrolytes for me and to make sure I was all right. I was, just real dehydrated. After some fun floor time, I got up, talked some more with the guys at the bar, and then headed back over to sleep in my tent.

Day 16

More road walking today. Only for about the first half of the day, but still more than I’d like. I made sure to get an early start to avoid a similar fate as yesterday. The road portion was devoid of shade, but had some good views and a couple opportunities to grab water. Water for the 2nd half of the day was more sparse and I had to resort to the grossest water source yet. It was a swampy area that looked like something Shrek may wander out of, but it filtered clear and only tasted a little like a frog.

I ran into many spider webs today, leading me to believe that I was the first SOBO on the trail for the day. I think I may have passed booster and rocket finally. Hopefully I will run into them when I zero in anaconda! My thought Ms were confirmed when I crossed paths with NOBOs Rosin and Passout who told me they had not seen any hikers that day.

The stars tonight were unreal. I could clearly see the band of stars that form the Milky Way. We definitely don’t get that in Richmond! I wish my phone could take better photos of the night sky, but I’ll just have to keep the memory of this breathtaking sky in my head.

Day 17

Cow troughs, sun burn, and road walking have been the theme of this stretch of trail and today was no different. I hiked through open grass fields for much of the morning which eventually have way to some sparse areas of woods. Lots of cows today, some guarding the troughs that I hoped we’d one day learn to share. The water in the troughs was pretty grimy, but luckily there was a constant flow of clear water still feeding the basin.

Midway through the day, a cow hiding in the trees nearly gave me a heart attack as it jogged towards me and I mistook it as a bear. He was all alone and I think maybe lost. He followed me down the trail for about a quarter mile before dropping off. Hopefully he’s been reunited with his family by now.

After 19 miles of trail walking, it was time for the road walk into anaconda. I’d be taking the anaconda alternate to reach town and take a glorious zero. All that was between me and pure bliss was this heinous, scorching road walk. I tuned into my audiobook (I’m listening to the lord of the rings series again), donned my umbrella for only the third time, and got to stepping.

The road was smooth and easy to walk, but unbearably hot. There was a fair amount of water to the side of the road and I was frequently going over drink a bit and splash myself to cool off. The umbrella was my saving grace here. I haven’t gotten as much use out of it as I had hoped, but it has been a life saver when usable.

I walked until I couple anymore, found out the campsite I had planned on using was not open, and I walked 2 more miles. A water treatment plant is where I ended up staying. I tried to get stakes in the ground to pitch my tent, but was unable. It was basically just a gravel parking lot and was like trying to out a stake through cement. I ended up just cowboy camping. I ate dinner and watched the sun dip behind the mountains before lying down for sleep. Town tomorrow!!

Day 18

I didn’t sleep incredibly well last night, but at least that allowed me time get an early start on the last 10 miles into town. I was walking at 4:30 and made it to town by 8! I got in touch with the hostel and went to find some breakfast. I ended up at Donivan’s where I had biscuits, gravy, eggs, hash browns. Best town breakfast yet!

By the time I was finishing breakfast, the hostel got back to me and let me know I could take a shower and do laundry there. The plan was to sleep in the free “hiker hut” that the anaconda park system provided hikers. I headed over to the hiker hut to drop off some of my stuff before hightailing it over to Pintler’s Portal (hostel) to clean myself off. This was the first shower I’ve taken since Augusta. It was transformative. I’d washed off in a few creeks and things, but boy had I missed soap. Humanity really knocked it out of the park with that stuff.

After my shower, I stuck my nasty clothes in the laundry and met a few people staying at the hostel. There was Mike (this is like the 4th Mike I’ve met) from Vegas, a biker from Spain who I did not get the name of, and another SOBO hiker from Belgium, Machine. Mike was a teacher in the Las Vegas area and we talked about our future pension dreams. We will see if that comes into fruition. It was great to share trail experiences with Machine, who is on the final hike of his triple crown.

Once my laundry had finished up, I ate a little out of the hiker box and was on my way. I had a couple errands to run in town, so I hopped on the bike I borrowed from the hiker hut and got to work. I exchanged my old, holey, darn tough socks for a brand new pair at Murdoch’s. The new ones have stripes! I also picked up a new fuel canister and a couple items for resupply.

Biking around town, I saw another hiker-looking-biker in the distance. I pedaled hard to catch up and was elated to see that it was booster!! I told him I was running to McDonald’s to grab dinner but that I’d see him and rocket back at the hiker hut. It was so wonderful to see them both! They would not be taking a zero tomorrow, so unfortunately we’d be separated immediately, but at least I now know they are around. We talked for hours before getting in our tents just after 10. Late night!!