Day 15 on the GR5

Day 15 – July 17th – 15 kilometers – 4.5 hours
268 kms total so far
Start: 10:07 AM, Refuge de Cuchet
End: 2:37 PM, Refuge du Plan du Lac
Ascent: 715 meters (15 910 meters total so far)
Descent: 387 meters (13 815 meters total so far)

Another late start for another short day. Cows in the mist stare me down and see me off for another day of hiking on the spectacular GR5. The mist soon lifts and the dark green pines, Alpine flowers and snow-capped mountains all reappear. The trail passes through some tree cover but, for the most part, leaves me exposed to yet another day of intense sunshine. At one summit, a giant, jagged rock with a hollowed out middle, much like a mini cave, offers me some reprieve from the heat while I take a short break. Bunches of my old friends, Aplenrose, reappear beside clusters of tiny yellow buttercups and other assorted flowers. The diverse wild and colourful blossoms have been an unexpected show-stealer along the trail. With my BeFree water filter, I replenish my water supply from one of the many cascading streams that are always in abundance. Three-hundred-and-sixty-degree views of the Alps surround me all day as I hike. Strenuous exercise, gorgeous views, clean mountain air and fresh spring water…what more could a girl ask for? But the reverie is soon broken as I begin seeing more and more people. Yuck! Then, I pass a bus stop and car park. Soon after, the path becomes dotted with informational placards. While I appreciate the shared information, I don’t particularly like the disruption in the natural landscape. Because I am now in a national park, the trail is more groomed and made for the masses. While Vanoise National Park is home to some stunning scenery, it is quickly becoming my least favourite part of the hike so far. Not only can you not bivouac here, but the increase in human traffic is significant. Thankfully, the range of snowy peaks and the lovely little lake here are more than pretty enough to take my mind off the infusion of human intrusion. At a quarter to three, I arrive to Refuge du Plan du Lac. I order a beer and sit around, waiting for 6:30 PM when we will be allowed to set up our tents in the tent area behind the refuge. As well, I enjoy a slice of vegetarian quiche, served with a salad. Vegetables have been gravely lacking in my hiker’s diet and I enjoy the small meatless meal immensely. Finally, it is time to set up our tents. Once set up, discussions arise about the different tents people are using. I am eager for my turn to talk about my tent, but the discussion seems to fizzle and I never get the chance. Then, most people go off to the refuge for the evening meal. A young man comes over and asks if I know a gentleman named Ike. I do! His name is Berend and he tells me that he recognizes me from Ike’s Instagram. Too funny! We chat for a bit, then he goes off to cook his meal on a picnic table. In the solitude of my tent, I eat the last morsels of food left in my Ursack (dried sausage and old baguette again!) and sip on another petite bière. Since I am now out of food, I have ordered a picnic lunch from the refuge for tomorrow’s 31-kilometre hike. Good night, from the GR5!