Day 27: Pushing the Limits of the Definition of Hiking

• Appalachian Gap (164.8) to Cowels Cove (170)
• 1457 ft ascent, 1375 ft descent, 492 ft/mi
• Bonus Miles: 1

And so it begins. We have finally reached the start of the hard part of the Long Trail. My concern with being able to manover the climbs in these upcoming sections is growing. Failure at thru hiking the Long Trail is not acceptable to Rock Rabbit or me. The Historian is easier about it. He cares about the backpacking. For him, hiking and camping are rewards of their own. They are sufficient and fulfilling as they are. If I cannot make this section, it will be a failure to me. My stomach is doing flip-flops as we move to the point of no return for Canels Hump.

A Brutal Start

As if to test our resolve, the first 1 1/2 miles out of Appalachian Gap are cruel. Our pace was a half mile an hour. Rock Rabbit and The Historian patiently waiting as I maneuved over the boulders at my slow, steady pace. Every step contains multiple decisions. Each small segment requires examination. What is the best general approach?

Once found, what is the technique for each of my steps. Where does my foot go? Where do my hands go? What do I do with my treking poles? If I slide, what options do I have for self arrest? If I cannot stop, where will I land? If there a clif edge? 

With agonizingly slowness, I make my way up the hill. My watch typically measures pitch but at this slow speed, it doesn’t detect I am moving so it won’t calculate the slope. Based on previous measures, this slope is over 20% grade. 

The Enduring Patience of My Partners

I try to block out how long it is taking me. My school time humiliation at being the most inept in gym classs hovers over me threatening to evisorate my efforts to scale this cliff. Behind me, is my real life. two men who respect me and wait without judging my effort. 

While they don’t judge my effort, they, as well as I, worry about making our next campsite before dark.

Rock Rabbit has assessed that these sections are at least 50% harder for me than him. I appreciate knowing that. 

It is Hard Regardless

They stand below me waiting for my safe passage. As they wait for me, they plot their course.

Then, I stand above them waiting for them. It, too, is a long wait. It is hard, regardless.

I have confidence in their skills, and after nearly 200 miles, their experience. I still worry. 

We usually take different routes. Each of us has different strengths upon which we rely. I rely on my wits and short stretches. The Historian relies on balancing his legs and upper body, often with treking poles. Rock Rabbit relies on his incredible core strength and long body. 

Scaling the Technical Sections

We all have tried to get photographs that portay the landscape with pitch and scale but none of us have come close to capturing the scope of the process for these technical sections. 

The photo above is somewhat helpful, until you realize it is a routine, easy technical part.

This image also fails. The trail below is at least a 20 ft nearly vertical drop. There are crevices upon which to perch, but they are small. A slip is a fall. 

Racing Along Again 

We finally scaled the climb and enjoyed it being behind us. A lunch of rehydrated dried beans and trail mix at Birch Glen shelter gave us a chance to rest and refresh. 

The trail followed a ridge and we sped along. To go with our 1/2 mile per hour pace this morning, we tucked in a 25 minute mile. It was encouraging to move and we were happy to be reminded that we could cover ground competently. 

Eroded Trail

Soon we came to a long dirt section that was precariously clinging to the side of the hill. A few times, we were concerned that stepping on the trail would cause it to collapse. 

A collapse down the side of the mountain would take the hiker with it. Some spots other hikers had bypassed on the uphill causing more erosion. 

All along the trail we have moved blow downs as we could, and picked up trash. We have swept shelters and tried our best to leave no trace or improve the trail as we pass by. That is getting harder to do.  We struggled to know what choices to make to balance our safety and the health of the trail. 

A Grouse-Induced Panic Attack

As the afternoon wore on, The wildlife became more active. I heard the rhythmic clicking of grouse and reminded all of us that they were about. A sudden take off by a grouse nearby is a heartstopping thump. 

Even with the warning, when a grouse took off between The Historian and me, both of us, as the elder we take care of would say, “Nearly fell out.”

Rock Rabbit got a start, but more a laugh as we both levitate off the trail for a couple of steps. 

What Do We Do with Bad Weather

As we hiked along, we looked forward to reaching Cowels Cove shelter. We are expecting rain. We contemplated the meaning of weather alternatives. 

After the escape from the storm at Castlerock and today’s slow grind up from Appalachian Gap, we each, independently, decided there was wisdom and no regret in taking the bad weather alternatives if needed. 

Home for the Evening 

Tomorrow is Camels Hump.  It may rain. We, and our equipment are wearing down. I was surprised my custom insoles were cracking. Our doctor examined them before we left and said they were great. One hundred eighty miles of the Long Trail was too much for them too. 

Rock Rabbit commented that today was pushing the limits of the definition of hiking. He said it sucked his soul. The Historian is uncharacteristically quiet and a little snapish. My churning anxiety as we approach Camels Hump reminds me there are safety boundaries in life. 

This petite shelter is a good home. By 7:45 pm we are in our beds ready for an early start tomorrow. We do our best to lay our anxiety to rest for the night.