Day 33: The Terrifying Majesty of the Mountains

• Puffer Shelter (196.1) to Barnes Camp (207.7)
• 3216 ft ascent, 4718 ft descent, 710 ft/mi
• Bonus Miles: unknown

The sun grinds on in its inexorable hike toward winter, reminding us daily we have less light and more dark. When we started in the summer, hiker midnight was 8 or 9 pm. Now, a month later, everyone is tucked in by 7 pm, or even earlier. Alarms chime at 6 am, but no one stirs. It is dark and cold. Twelve hour hiking days are risky. The Long Trail by headlamp is a recipe for disaster. 

In the Beginning 

Down at the bottom of Mount Mansfield, we received a message that Rock Rabbit was leaving Puffer Shelter at 7:43 am. Looking out the windows of our hotel, while technically daylight, the shadows were long. 

Up top, the sunrise was gorgeous. 

We mentally wished him well for his Mansfield climb and tried to focus on town chores rather than the gnawing anxiety one can only feel for those whose lives are closely linked with ours. 

A Cold Night

We had left the hotel windows open  last night. Because we are still accustomed to sleeping outside the stifling indoor air choked us. We awakened burrowed into our blankets wondering if Rock Rabbit was overly cold. 

At 9:19 am, we received a message that the temperature had been a cold, but Rock Rabbit had been OK overnight. Both relieved he was not miserable, we carried on with chores with lighter hearts. 

If You Sprout Wings

The plan was for him to hike over Mansfield today to Taft Shelter and then out to the road tomorrow for a nero. 

When I saw his progress on the map check-in I could see he was moving fast. I wrote, complete with plenty of typos from my splinted finger:

I honestly did not want him to try a 12 mile day over Mansfield but had a nagging feeling he was going to appear today. 

It Is going to Be Today

At 12:42, we got a message he was headed over Mansfield and would be at the road by sunset.  

We tried not to panic. We responded with, “Great! What would you like for dinner?” as if it was a normal day in paradise. 

What we did not know was that the next shelter was closed and he had no option but to grind on. 

Glorious Weather

The day could not have been more glorious. We watched from down below as the clouds lifted and the sky turned cerulean blue. We were optimistic the rocks would dry off and be safer for Rock Rabbit’s travel.

Up top, the mountain unfolded in its terrifying majesty. Words fail to capture its breathtaking beauty and its raw, dangerous power. 

“Kidnapped” by the Visitor Center

At 2:30, we got a cheerful note that Rock Rabbit was at the top of Mansfield. He was reveling in the thru hiker gifts offered to him by the Visitor Center. A soft drink and maple doughnuts were a welcomed treat. 

Later, he laughed and told us it took all the restraint he had to keep from grabbing the donut box and burying his face in it. Hiker hunger is so very real! 

Back to The Commissary 

Knowing we had one hungry guy headed our way, who needed a dose of Ben and Jerry’s, we headed back to The Commissary for additional supplies. 

As we entered the store, I saw my blood from the car’s bite still on the pavement. A wave of nausea passed me by. Thankfully, the wound is healing and does not hurt as long as I keep the splint on. 

Smugglers Notch

After we got food, we headed up to hang out at Barnes Camp. We got a note that indicated it would be about an hour yet so we did a quick foray up the hill  to see the famous Smugglers Notch. 

Our Vermont friends told us a story of a freight truck driver who tried to take the notch road as a short cut. He got the trailer stuck between the rocks. It took several helicopters and other equipment to airlift the truck out of the jam. When it came time to settle the bill, the freight company convincingly argued that the signage  was not clear and the town had to pay for the rescue. 

Now, there are signs all over,  including a squiggly bit of road with pylons that say if you don’t fit here, you won’t fit on the road. It was sadly amusing to know the history of the signs.

Barnes Camp Reunion

When we guessed Rock Rabbit was about a mile out, I hiked up to meet him while The Historian minded the car on the narrow road and parking lot. 

Dark was creeping in. Just as I was getting too cold to continue in the clothes I had on, I spotted a specter in gray headed towards me. Thankfully, it was Rock Rabbit, not a ghost. 

He resembled a ghost, weary, wan and gray of face as well as clothes. I work hard to keep an eye on both of my guy’s weight and I was shocked at how gaunt Rock Rabbit was.

Back to the Hotel

While Rock Rabbit  soaked his aching knees in the deep tub we had, I cooked a big dinner. 

Over dinner, he regaled us with tales of his running conversation with the trail. 

“Where are you, you beastly thing?” 

“Of course, there you are, the most impossible spot.”

Body washed and tummy full, we pointed out the short trail to the waiting bed. That hike was easy. No need for a headlamp.