Day 7: Land O’Lakes (mile 51.5/211)

Exhausted, I went through the motions of packup. My right pinky toe got the first compeed of the trip, and we climbed up a series of absolutely gorgeous lakes, all emerald or topaz sparkle from above. Garnet, Shadow. Like the English Lake District on steroids, but empty of tourist traffic and Greek-island colours below the crenellated peaks hoarding their remnant snow patches.

I was thinking about pushing to Devil’s Postpile and the shuttle bus to Mammoth Lakes for a shower and some supplies. I’d decided the solution to me hating all my food would be some LOVELY CHEESE and a tortilla. But a northbound lady told me the bus wasn’t running til Friday. Today was… Tuesday? The road was closed for blasting, no hitchhiking or even walking allowed. I’d been fantasising hard about a bed and bathroom and no wind for an overnight, talking to people I know. But, no.

The thing about a thru-hike is that landscapes or features which would be quite spectacular in isolation are a bit yeah-yeah-whatever when chained together in a gruelfest. I passed cascades way more impressive than my locals in the ADKs, barely giving a second glance. 

I came down to Rosalie Lake in sunny drizzle and a literal rainbow diving from the trail down to the lake surface. Even I stood and wow-mouthed at that until it dissolved and it was time to pitch my tent out of the wind. Got out my begrudged stove and made hot Pad Thai in a bag and it was delicious and there was joy in my belly as well as my heart.