Denali Expedition Prep Course

This past week I attended a Denali expedition course. It was four days long and covered instruction on crevasse rescue, fixed line travel in a rope team, self arrest on a rope team, sled rigging, and glacier camp setup. This course is meant as a pre-req for anyone wanting to join an expedition company for an attempt on the mountain. 

The first day we went over crevasses rescue. We simulated a team member on the rope team was hanging in a crevasse. Then adding different pulley systems (3:1, 5:1, and 6:1) we were able to extract them from the crevasse. This was a very complex and tangible exercise meaning multiple times of practice before really grasping all the steps. Within the process itself, there are several knots, the pulley system,  and technical rope climbing devices. A lot to remember and master.

The two different pulleys systems we rigged up for practice

POV from the rescuee looking at the anchor setup.

After everyone went through setting up the extraction pulley system, we went over self rescue. This part I had practiced while on a previous expedition to Ecuador. The process itself is not very complicated while hanging off a back porch, but I can see how actually being stuck in a crevasses it would become very difficult. Most likely if you do fall in, you’d have your pack on adding to the weight you have to pull back up to the surface.

We practiced in full gear setup and while wearing packs. There are some special rigging ties/points  you have to add to your pack in order to practice. One by the right shoulder strap which gets hooked to a locker on your harness. Another variation of tie in for your pack is to the rope for the team. Each variation holds the pack weight differently while ascending up the rope. I liked the waist variation better because it felt as if the pack was part of me and easier to pull. The variation of the pack being tied to the rope felt clunkier and as if the rope was working against me trying to ascend. Good idea to try out both before deciding on which variation 😁

The next day was climbing on fixed lines and working as a rope team. This was by far the best day of the course. We hiked into Rocky Mountain National Park near Estes, Colorado. Our guide led us to the start of a climb where we’d set up about 300ft of fixed lines ascending up a slope angled over 40degrees. We wore harnesses, crampons, helmets and carried our ice axe during portions of the climb.

Fixed lines course 

This exercise was extremely beneficial. I have traveled on a rope team, but have no fixed line experience.  The process of hooking into/out of through anchors, all while ascending and moving as a team can be quite complex. Realizing which locker goes to what link in the setup is crucial. We ascended 300ft on fixed lines then came to a 5.2 rock pitch which is the crux of the route and the last push to the summit. 

5.2 pitch and summit push

We each scaled through the pitch and it was a short walk up to the summit of Glacier Knob. Cold and windy, we only stayed on top a few moments for pictures then started to rig up to go back through the crux of the route. An easy down climb, though wearing crampons on rock added some technical mixed climbing.

After we all made it down to the fixed lines, we went over descending techniques and tactics. We were “cleaning” (collecting the gear as your pass) our gear as we descended down to the trail. This part was slow and required a belay at the top while the team moved from anchor to anchor. I can only imagine what it is like with a 40lb sled towed behind you 😬😳

Cleaning up the fixed rope lines

Once everything was secured it was a quick hike out of the park. RMNP is great for training and is stunning during the winter months. While on the summit there was a great view of  Longs Peak. This is the deadliest 14er in Colorado and has claimed more than 70 lives in the past 50yrs. I was fortunate to summit this one last year in September via the Key Hole route. 

View of Longs Peak off in the distance

The third day we worked on glacier camp set up, how to enter/exit a safe zone, and traveling on pickets called “running pro”. Camp setup consists of finding a spot that’s somewhat flat and stomping out a tent footprint with snow shoes. The tent was a Hilleberg which has a large vestibule you can use for cooking, gear storage, and gearing up. You dig out snow from this portion of the vestibule in order to sit down or stand up. 

Hilleberg tent setup. Notice the large vestibule

We dug out snow to create a cooking/gear storage area

After tent setup we worked on making a snow wall for wind block. You search around the immediate area and create a block pit where you cut out large blocks of slab snow for the wall. Some of the same principles when setting up a tent while thru hiking are also applied in glacier setup. 

Our block snow wall

Good wind blocker, yet time consuming

After breaking down camp, we returned to the classroom and went over sled rigging. Everyone has to tow a sled on Denali. You bring a 100-150L duffel which is weather proof. This duffel holds extra fuel, food, and gear. There is a specific way to rig the sled so the gear won’t fall out in case of crevasse collapse. Then you have to rig the sled to the back of your pack and onto the rope the team travels on. Typically a climber will carry upwards of 80lbs throughout the expedition. 

The last day we went over route planning for a white out, navigational skills and map reading, and additional crevasse self rescue techniques. Our instructor also did a gear shakedown and gave recommendations on purchases before arrival to Alaska. 

This really was a phenomenal course, has a ton of best practices, and in-depth technical training. I would definitely recommend this or a similar style course if venturing out into glaciated peaks like in the Pacific Northwest (Hood, Adams, Baker, Rainer, etc). Now that I have this course and avy level I, I’m able to submit an application to join a Denali expedition. Exciting times!