Episode Seven: Kingsbury Grade to Big Meadow
TRT Section: Kingsbury Grade to Big Meadow
Days: 11-13
Mileage: 26.3
Elevation Gain: 8,691 ft.
Elevation Loss: 8,532 ft.
Highest Elevation: 9,756 ft.
Lowest Elevation: 7,017 ft.
Should I Stay Or Should I Go?
The Breakdown
Water bottle empty and the highway crossing behind me, my feet kept marching on. I figured I would get to the next water source, Edgewood Creek, soon enough. Then I would be able to quench this unrequited thirst I’ve battled for the last day.
The tenth mile of the day came at 10:15 AM, and I harbored a disappointment that I hadn’t been as fast as I had been yesterday. But I hadn’t been as thirsty. So very thirsty.
I wish I had a definite timeline of that final mile to the creek, but truthfully, my mind could only process finding a way to rehydrate. Until it moved on to much darker ventures.
Feeling like hours had passed since Kingsbury Grade, I was past my threshold for thirst. The combination of thirst, dehydration, heat, and pure exhaustion entirely eclipsed my grasp on rationality and logic. I should have reached the creek by this point! How am I not there yet? Why the hell am I even out here? Why am I doing this myself? I’m just going to get a ride back to my car from town. I’m over this. Somehow, amidst my severely dehydrated state, my eyes released tears. Lots of them.
Relief
Realistically, it was likely a half-hour past the highway crossing when I came upon Edgewood Creek, a mild but steadily flowing stream.
I slung my pack to the ground at the base of a tree and pulled my CNOC bag out of its pocket. Stepping up to the creek edge, I dipped the bag into the highest flow, and filled that thing to the brim. As I crouched over the stream, mosquitoes began to form a cloud around me. They were the least of my worries in that moment.
After the bag filled, I grabbed my pack by the top handle and lugged it to a rock away from the stream and tree cover to escape the bugs. I sat down on the rock, propped my Smart Water bottle between my legs, screwed my Sawyer to the CNOC, and filtered away. With only half of a liter filtered, I tore the Sawyer from the bottle and chugged it down immediately.
My body was almost in shock from the relief I felt. Relief that it finally had more liquid circulating. Relief from the unadulterated heat. Relief from the onslaught of discomfort. My tears subsided.
I filtered another liter and shook in some peach iced tea flavoring, drinking it down as quickly as the half-liter before it. I filled the last half liter from the CNOC bag into the Smart Water bottle and got ready to head into Stateline, the nearest town.
Tramway
Trudging my way up from the Boulder parking lot of Heavenly Ski Resort, a little way up from Edgewood Creek, I resented the hill of the road, cursing its upward slope aloud with no one around to hear it. It was less than a half mile to the nearest convenience store: Tramway Market. When I arrived, I dropped my pack outside the entrance, figuring its weight and filth were enough to deter would-be thieves. Though at this point, having my pack stolen would have been the sure-fire sign I was looking for to quick this stupid hike.
Inside the market, I was overstimulated by how much was available. Having been limited to the slim-pickins of my bear can since Tahoe City (which I realized was a week ago!), I had every indulgence at my disposal in this place: chips and candy and cookies galore! I decided to keep it simple: a quick snack and a cold beverage. A Hillshire snacking small plate and a Crush orange soda.
Stepping outside the store, I inhaled the salami and white cheddar, washing it down with half the bottle of orange soda. The burst of salt coupled with the chill and carbonation of the soda brought me another wave of relief. Though I had annihilated an entire meat and cheese snack tray, my stomach was yelling for more. And thus, I headed to get a bonafide meal.
Fox and Hound
Next door to the market is the Fox and Hound, a bar and grill that came heavily recommended by hikers both on trail and online. I lumbered into the restaurant with my big ol’ pack and asked the hostess for a table on their outdoor balcony patio. She quickly obliged. As she guided me through the indoor seating area, I was suddenly hyper-aware of my appearance and smell: I was coated in dirt, my hair was in shambles, and my clothes reeked of the sweat tsunami from yesterday’s escapades. I also did not have deodorant (because by this point, it wouldn’t help in the slightest).
After being seated, a server came over to take a drink order. I wanted so many things, but I settled for a Dr. Pepper and water. Then, I perused the menu, again wanting so many things; I wrestled between getting something with fresh produce or something sinfully stocked with savory goodness. BBQ pulled pork nachos won.
Phone Call #1: Homesickness
Intent on waiting out the heat of the day on this patio, I settled in. I plugged my phone into my solar charger and called my boyfriend. Over the course of a forty-five-minute call, I gave him a hefty rundown of my trip since Tahoe City, the last time we had spoken on the phone. Though we texted daily via my Garmin InReach, it was great to have a verbal exchange. This was the longest we had been away from each other in the five years of our relationship, and I was missing him and his daughter immensely.
He caught me up on the goings-on at home, which was all the typical business: went to the movies, hung around the house, worked on some projects. Somehow, the mundanity made me extra homesick. I was out on this grand adventure that I had dreamed of for years, but I found myself being pulled to go home. To see him and his daughter. To go enjoy a movie in an air-conditioned theater while eating as much popcorn as I cared to eat. But I recognized that my rough day was propelling that temptation to call it and head home.
Then, I told him about my struggles with the heat, the lack of water, and so much else that I hadn’t crammed into an InReach message. Our text exchange the previous day was limited to the movie he had gone to see and the impeccable view I’d said I’d had from my campsite. Nothing about the heat. Nothing about drinking dirty, leftover couscous water because I was so incredibly thirsty and had no access to more water. I punctuated the retelling of my strife with an exasperated, “I really miss you.”
Encouragement
At the end of our call, my boyfriend reminded me of how far I had come: over a hundred miles, many of which were solo. I would only have a few more days on trail, and I was strong enough to finish what I had started.
The combination of just talking to him, the pork nachos, and refreshingly cold beverages was beginning to lift my spirits. I forcefully expelled all schemes to catch a ride back to my car near Echo Lake and go home. I was going to finish this.
Phone Call #2: Plans
Feeling uplifted, I said goodbye to my boyfriend and dialed my parents next. I gave them the same spiel of my struggles, but with a bit less defeated attitude. I told them that I had about 45 miles left until I finished, and I let them know what approximate stops I would be making. My dad followed along on a map at home as I listed locations along the trail; he and I share a fondness for maps and geography, so knowing that he’s following along makes me feel closer despite being so far away.
The updated itinerary included the following stops: wherever along the trail I could get to tonight, Star Lake the next day, Round Lake the day after, then Showers Lake, and then out the day after. I would be done by Day 15 (July 10). That was entirely doable.
With the promise of continued daily texts from the InReach, we said our goodbyes. I knew that the next time I’d call them would be when I was done. That notion thrilled me.
Patio Pals
With my phone calls over and the midafternoon heat in full swing, I was content hanging out on the patio until the early evening. Other restaurant-goers on the balcony included a pair of fellow backpackers steadily eying their maps and a pair of mountain bikers. We all struck up a dialogue from our respective tables, sharing itineraries and discussing the most beautiful parts of the Tahoe Rim Trail.
The mountain bikers ordered a pitcher of beer and offered me a glass to share. Despite my recent recovery from dehydration (like, an-hour-ago recent), I happily accepted. (I did supplement with several refills of my water glass, I promise.) With this company, I whiled away the afternoon enjoying human interaction (as well as a second meal: a salad, full of sweet sweet fresh produce).
Resupply
Feeling reinvigorated after an afternoon of good food, cold drinks, and nice conversation, I departed from Fox and Hound and headed into Tramway Market (with a list!) to resupply. I considered how many days I had left on the trail: three and a half. With what I had left in my bear can (LMNT and Mio, some tortillas, almond butter packets, the unused packet of couscous, a chicken-flavored ramen, and a serving of oatmeal), I contemplated what I would need to get me through the last forty-five miles.
I left Tramway with a new can of bug spray and one of sunscreen, a pack of baby wipes, one packet of ramen, one packet of instant mashed potatoes, two pouches of Pop Tarts, two bags of M&Ms, three fig bars, three beef jerky stick snack packs, and some wild berry Skittles along with another candy I can’t quite remember: maybe peach rings of some sort. (What is nutrition on the trail?)
After stuffing my haul into my bear can (with ease…there was still a lot of room), I sauntered off back down the hill towards Edgewood Creek to get back on trail.
Heavenly
Being that it was about five o’clock when I got back to trail (and that I was entirely full from my food at Fox and Hound), I intended to hike until I felt like setting up camp, no matter how far that was. My goal was to get to Star Lake by the following day, about 12 miles from the restaurant. This part of the Tahoe Rim Trail goes through the Heavenly Ski Resort, so as I crept up the steady incline, I was weaving through multiple ski lifts.
After about two and a half hours, 4.4 trail miles, and 1,200 feet of gain, I decided to call it a night. At a nice large flat spot in the trail, I decided to shed my pack and begin pitching my tent. On the far side of the flat, I spotted another tent. It looked familiar: Lauder! The familiarity brought a sense of comfort as I set up camp.
With the sun still up as eight o’clock approached, I crawled into my tent to get some rest. Despite an afternoon in town, I still felt exhausted. As strenuous as eleven days of hiking is, the journey back from the brink of quitting was the most exhausting. But I knew I would be so glad I stayed. (And for once, I was right.)
Day 11 (Part 2): Kingsbury to Heavenly Ski Lift
Total Mileage: 6.7
Star Lake
The next morning, I woke up without an alarm, sleeping in until half past six. With “only” seven miles to Star Lake, I knew time would be on my side. In the spirit of taking my time, as I’d done yesterday, I savored a slow start to the morning.
A New Trail Friend
I exited my tent, still in my sleep shirt and leggings, to retrieve my bear can a hundred feet away. That’s when I met Bobbi. She had been the one in the tent, not Lauder.
Bobbi and I had a nice morning chat, sharing our trail starting points and our goals for today: we were both headed for Star Lake. While Bobbi had just recently begun her TRT journey, mine was coming to its end soon.
After talking for a bit, Bobbi finished packing up her things and headed out. Then, I proceeded to pack up as well, munching on a Pop Tart as I did so. I was keen on taking things slow and easy today.
Onward and Upward
From my camp spot, the trail ascended steadily until Star Lake, hugging the eastern face of the mountains of the Tahoe Basin. I was afforded expansive eastward views of the Carson Valley along with southward views of the mountains I would be forging through. Soon enough, I stepped back over the California state line, leaving Nevada behind on the trail.
As I walked along, I realized my renewed sense of wonder with my surroundings. I stopped to enjoy each and every aspect that piqued my fancy: a blue dragonfly, a babbling stream, a mighty tree. Each new view brought me that first-trail-day feeling of awe and inspiration. The steady uphill didn’t even phase me.
As the morning progressed and the sun shifted towards the middle of the sky, I caught up with Bobbi. We weren’t far from Star Lake by that point, and we ended up walking and talking. It was nice to meet another like-minded trail-goer to share some beautiful miles with.
Destination: Star Lake
Before the morning came to its close, we reached our destination, Star Lake. We took a few moments to appreciate the beauty of this lake, and then we promptly took our packs to set them down on some prime camp spots a couple hundred feet from the lake shore.
Since the heat was beginning to intensify as the afternoon commenced, Bobbi and I headed into the lake for a dip. I had been wanting to experience a better backcountry lake swim than the one I’d had at Susie Lake (where I nearly lost my sandal).
Kudos to Bobbi who was able to fully submerge herself under the frigid water. On the other hand, I could not muster the strength to go in deeper than my waistline. The cold of the water was too overpowering for me. I just couldn’t get myself in any lower.
Relaxation
Since I had reached my destination by noon, I wanted to take full advantage of an afternoon of relaxation. To start, I washed out my hiking clothes. Then, Bobbi and I ate some snacks while we enjoyed rich discussions about life and all the adventures therein. I especially loved hearing of her time on other trails like the Appalachian and Pacific Crest. We daydreamed about heading out on a big trail again someday to share some miles (Bobbi, the offer still stands!). There is something about a trail that can forge friendships seemingly instantaneously, and this quality was one I grew to appreciate about the TRT.
After our conversations, Bobbi and I retreated to our respective tents for some naps. I never did fall asleep, but I enjoyed simply laying back in my tent for a bit, wandering around Star Lake, eating more snacks, and taking in this incredible afternoon.
Dip Attempt #2
With the midafternoon heat in full swing, I took a second dip, determined to submerge myself lower than my waist. So I gingerly stepped back into the lake; it was still a crisp cold that sent my senses swirling. As I reached my waistline once again, I turned about in this lake. I admired the mountaintops that formed the basin above. The trees that cast shadows. The clear skies that reflected so delicately on the surface of the water. Despite the tingling in my lower extremities, serenity surged through me. Being in that lake at that moment in that cold was one of my favorite moments of my journey.
Appreciating my surroundings, I relinquished my body into the water. The lake’s wintry water enveloped me, suspending my breathing for a moment. I resurfaced with a gasp, but somehow felt so thoroughly invigorated.
Setting Goals
As I basked in the late afternoon sun at this tranquil lake, I began thinking ahead to the next day. Consulting my map, I plotted out possible places to stop to camp. My original intent when planning this trip was to camp at either Round Lake or Showers Lake on my final night in order to make a shorter trip out on the last day. Showers felt the most suitable stop for the last night because it was roughly nine miles back to my car from there. Heading out from Round Lake would have added over four miles, which seemed far less appealing.
So I started wrestling with how I wanted to distribute my remaining mileage (around 31 miles). I embarked on this trip to see what I was made of. Where my thresholds lay. If I could handle big miles. My time was dwindling, so I decided I would attempt to get to Showers Lake the next day, over twenty miles away.
A Tale of Two Dinners
With my newly-set intention for big miles the next day, I decided to fuel up. I would be cutting my forecasted itinerary by a whole day, so I had plenty of food to consume. I started with a solo lakeside dinner of ramen.
After Bobbi roused from her tent, we hung out and chatted a bit more. When she was ready for her own dinner, I joined with a second course for myself: couscous. We ate together as the sun painted the hills behind Star Lake a golden color. I told Bobbi my plans to make it to Showers Lake the following day; she told me that would be too far for her to go. The disappointment in parting ways so soon was evident, but I was thankful to have established another trail friendship. I savored her company as we finished eating (and as I ate an M&M and almond butter tortilla).
Reflection
As the sun set on my stellar day at Star Lake, I was reminded of the value of taking my time. In “real life,” the tendency to get caught up in the innumerable day-to-day tasks often overrides our ability to cherish the small moments. This can severely impede our happiness. So while they may not be an afternoon at a serene alpine lake, moments in our day-to-day can bring a wealth of joy, as long as we’re willing to stop to soak them up.
Day 12: Heavenly Ski Lift to Star Lake
Total Mileage: 7.0
Go Big, Then Go Home
Predawn Wake-up
I was up before the sun the following morning. By the light of my headlamp, I made some breakfast: oatmeal with trail mix and then some coffee. I knew I would need substantial fuel to get to Showers Lake today. From my spot, I could see Bobbi’s headlamp light as she got ready to depart.
The chill of the morning air was refreshing, and I lolled in it as I sipped down my coffee, watching the sun lighten the sky above Star Lake. Knowing that I would be booking it down the trail today in order to get in twenty miles, I took my time with my coffee so I could fully absorb my final views of Star Lake.
Hit the Trail
After my final gulp of coffee, I stuffed my mug into my pack, loaded it onto my back, and started on what would be the longest day of my trip. I was loath to leave my spot at Star Lake, but was excited to see the rest of the section from there to Big Meadow. So, by 5:30 AM, Star Lake began to drift from sight.
With Star Lake in the rearview, I headed up yet another incline and was rewarded soon thereafter with stunning views of Lake Tahoe in the backdrop of spectacular craggy mountains. As I climbed up and over Armstrong Pass, I was simply amazed by the sunrise views.
Tears
Coming down from the pass, I was stunned by the magnificence of the trail. As I made my way down this trail, I literally stopped to smell the wildflowers.
Continuing on, I relished an expansive view of the mountains in Desolation Wilderness. Every turn in the trail seemed to bring a new breathtaking panorama. While my feet walked along the path, my eyes were fixated on the distant mountains that looked like waves of an ocean. Waves that I had already sailed across. Soon, I’d be returning to the port.
The epiphany of my journey’s end dawned on me like the sun was dawning on Lake Tahoe. The recognition of how far I had come overtook me. Tears welled before escaping down my cheeks.
About two hours in and five miles down, Bobbi and I both stopped at a trail junction for a break. We both knew that going forward, I would likely outpace her for the remainder of the day. That meant that this would be where we parted ways. May our paths cross again someday, Bobbi!
9.8 by 10
Moving forward, I felt entirely energized by my surroundings. A sensational sight of the Sierra and a fantastic frenzy of flowers made for an all-around sublime morning of hiking. Therefore, my pace felt pretty perky.
When 10:00 AM rolled around, I wondered how far I had made it in four and half hours. I pressed the icon for Star Lake on FarOut, and it read “9.8 miles back.” While it wasn’t another “10 by 10,” 9.8 was just fine for me. I had truly enjoyed this morning in such a deep way that those .2 miles couldn’t have mattered less to me. It would have mattered to my two-days-ago self though.
Big Meadow
Within the next hour and forty-five minutes, I put away another 4.6 miles. My pace was only slowed by my incessant proclivity to stop and snap photos of wildflowers. There’s an innate whimsy bred from frolicking through a field of paintbrush.
Feeling high on the flora vibes, I ambled into the Big Meadow trailhead where I stopped to use a bathroom. These facilities had been painted in such a groovy way that I nearly forgot I was using a rudimentary pit toilet.
After my pit stop, I continued on to the official trailhead sign, which meant that my seventh section of the Tahoe Rim Trail was complete. I only had (part of) one section left: Big Meadow to Echo Lake (or…my car, a few miles before Echo Lake). My trek around the Tahoe Rim Trail was nearly finished. And while part of me was so ready for it, the other part of me couldn’t bear the thought of it ending.
Day 13 (Part 1): Star Lake to Big Meadow
Total Mileage: 14.4
This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in the articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support The Trek's ongoing goal to serve you quality backpacking advice and information. Thanks for your support!
To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.