Goodbye New Zealand’s North Island – Hello South Island’s Adventure

Touching the stone

I gave myself a great Christmas present. Early in the morning, December 25, I rolled out of bed at Trail Angels Linda and Ray’s home, ate a quick breakfast, and walked to the bus stop. I was the only rider. Everyone else was still asleep or watching their kids excitedly tear into presents under the tree. I got off at Wellington Station just as the sun broke through the gloomy clouds. Using Far Out, I navigated the trail down the deserted streets of the Central Business District until I came to the harbor. Eight miles to go before I reached the plaque embedded in a stone at Island Bay. On Christmas Day and I would complete my Te Araroa travels on New Zealand’s North Island. 

 

As I slackpacked along those last 8 miles, the weeks’ travels played through my mind. I remembered hiking to Rob and George’s, legendary TA hosts in Whanganui, after I got off the 4 day canoe trip. When I reached their house and walked up the driveway, I was greeted with hugs and smiles. I spent the next 2 days eating, cooking, talking, listening and learning. Staying with Rob and George is an immersive experience in both TA and Maori culture. From the moment I walked up their driveway to the moment I left their place to continue my journey, I felt like I was participating in a experiential dramatic happening. One that is played out over and over every day through TA season as they host dozens and dozens of hikers.

Knowing I was from the US, Rob raised the Stars and Stripes up the flagpole on the front deck the day I arrived. It would remain until Day 2, when Swiss sisters came in, and then the white cross and red background flag of Switzerland was displayed.  Pictures were taken. I wondered how many flags they have stored and ready. Since being in New Zealand, I have met hikers from all over the world. Rob and George must have umpteen country flags. I wish I would have asked them how many. After I got a bit settled, Rob and George officially welcomed me with a Maori ceremony. Rob described to me that until this point of my journey, that I was a visitor, my feet were sacred, but after the welcoming, my feet were now native, that New Zealand, and their home, was now my (second) home. George spoke of his New Zealand heritage, ran through some basic house rules, and welcomed me also. Then we performed the traditional greeting, the hongi, meaning sharing of breath, by pressing our forehead, then noses together. Then, we eat. And we eat some more. By the time, Rob and George drove me to the bus station after my stay, I knew I made great friends. I loved Rob’s extensive knowledge of all things TA. I loved George’s quiet sense of humor. And both gave the best hugs on Trail!

Back to the beach

I bussed past a huge chunk of the trail, from Whanganui to Waikanae, missing the infamous and dangerous Tararua mountain range. I wasn’t the only one to bypass. It was never in my hiking plans, but prolonged stormy weather prompted many hikers to skip past those mountains and onto the coastal walk into Wellington, the capital of New Zealand and its third largest city. It is also where TA ends its long northern section. When I reach the stone, I will have covered 1072 miles. Not all hiked, but all travelled.

I hike the last sixty two miles of the trail in 5 days. I took my time. I stopped and watched the seagulls dive into the water and come up with fish in their bill. I watched brave souls run and jump into the pounding surf as the rain soaked me to the bone. I hiked along breath taking vistas along the Escarpment Track, the Colonial Knob Walkway, and the Skyline Walkway. Every day I saw someone who I knew or someone who recognized me from the TA Facebook pages. It felt like I was walking through my hometown even though I was half a world away from it. I These folks are my tribe. This trail is where I feel comfortable. And I’m going to miss them and it, fiercely. 

When I touched that stone late in the afternoon on Christmas day, I said goodbye to Te Araroa. A young hiker I had met a few weeks ago popped up from behind me and offered to take my picture. He is from Wellington and home for the holidays. He showed up at the finish on Christmas to congratulate me and others who completed the North Island.  That’s the kind of wondrous gestures and camaraderie that happens all the time on trail. We look out for each other. We support each other. We celebrate Christmas with each other. The night before, Linda and Ray took me with them to their friend’s home, who was hosting a TA Danish family for Christmas Eve dinner and celebration. Of course, I’d met and hiked with the Kraghs. They cooked a fabulous dinner and we sang Christmas carols and danced around the tree in Danish tradition. We talked about our favorite days on trail and the challenging ones too. 

It’s hard to say goodbye 

The day after Christmas, Boxing Day, I sat with Linda and Ray and cried. I needed some advice, and as native New Zealanders and Trail Angels, they were the best people to ask for help. A TA couple, about my age, Tony and Pip, had messaged me and said that I would be welcome to join them in the Richmond Ranges and Nelson Lakes area of the South Island. But I had already decided that after I got on the Interislander Ferry and sailed through Cook’s Strait, I was going to leave the TA and the TA corridor behind. I’d bought a bus pass and I’m spending a few months traveling from town to town, taking in all the sights and doing tons of day hikes. I will hike the Te Araroa at random, convenient spots, but I wasn’t planning on backpacking the remote, main part of the trail.  I thought my plan was all set. But when Tony and Pip messaged me, the second guessing began. And agonizing. I wasn’t necessarily going to miss the backpacking, but I was going to miss my TA tribe. 
“What’s more important to you, seeing the country or hiking?” A great question. Linda and Ray had quietly listened to me talk about the uncertainty about my plans. Then Linda asked me that question. And I knew the answer. “I want to see the country.” Ray gave me info and suggestions about which towns I can visit where the TA runs through, or very close to, the trail. Maybe I can reconnect with my hiking friends there. I’m okay now. I’ll get on that ferry tomorrow to the South Island with clear eyes and a full heart. I’ll make new friends and keep in touch with old friends. I can’t lose! 

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Comments 4

  • Wendy : Dec 28th

    I don’t know very much about New Zealand. I’m interested in your hike & pictures to see it all. I’m 71 now & can’t hike too much but love reading the adventures of others.

    Reply
    • Donna Barkley : Dec 28th

      Wendy, thank you for your comment. I didn’t know a lot about NewZealand either. But what a wonderful place. Great people. Beautiful scenery. Are there social and economic problems here? Yes, but the overall feeling I get is that communities are strong and folks work together.

      Reply
  • Mark Piczak : Dec 29th

    I don’t hike anymore due to leg and chronic low back pain oh and 4 hip replacements too. I’m 65 now but i used
    To hike boat ride bikes and motorcycles in and around DC VA W. VA and MD born and bred. MD is cool because the ocean mountains and rivers made it great to explore sightsee and see rock and roll shows when possible. Love your stories!
    Never been to NZ but from what I have seen it is magnificent the scenery is just wondrous to me. It’s a sight to behold and someday I would love to visit this beautiful country if I may! Keep on writing and hiking and we will all be blessed with sharing those thoughts and memories! Peace and happiness to you.

    Reply
    • Donna Barkley : Dec 29th

      Thanks for your comment. I hiked all the Maryland section of the AT. Twice! Good hiking. My motto is just keep moving. Slow and steady. NZ is so beautiful and the people are very friendly. Make some plans and visit. You won’t be disappointed

      Reply

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