The HexaTrek: 3034 Kilometers of French Wilderness, Culture, and History 

The HexaTrek is the new thru-hike shooting to the top of wish lists around the world. I hiked the trail in 2024 and can tell you – that’s for good reason. Stretching 3,034 kilometers (1,885 miles) across France, it weaves through breathtaking mountain regions and picturesque villages. 

Along the way, you’ll discover ancient ruins, trek through forests, summit peaks, swim in gorges, indulge in French cuisine, and connect with curious locals.

This trail has it all — and it’s only just beginning. 

Note: The following information is accurate as of the publication date. Since the trail is new and evolving, be sure to check for updates.

The Basics

• Length: 3,034 kilometers (1,885 miles)
• Expected Completion Time: 3 – 5 months 
• Start / End: Wissembourg, France / Hendaye, France
• Best time to hike: May – October, depending on your direction
  • North-South direction: the best time to start is between May 15 and July 1
  • South-North direction: the best time to start is between June 1 and July 15
• Trail Type: End-to-end 
• Scenery: The HexaTrek follows the highest mountain regions in France, traversing the Vosges, Alps, and Pyrenees. The trail connects 14 national parks and weaves through many small villages.
• Terrain: Difficult. The toughest sections are in the Alps (Stages 2 and 3) and the Pyrenees (Stages 5 and 6), with steep trails, increased elevation gain, and peaks approaching 3,000 meters. Mountaineering skills and snow gear may be needed outside the recommended hiking season.
• Navigation: The HexaTrek app provides offline maps that show sleeping options, water points, resupply locations, and sites of interest. The trail is mostly well-marked with red and white stripes, following existing GR trails. However, it sometimes deviates, so keep an eye on the HexaTrek app. In some areas, especially the Pyrenees, wayfinding using cairns or painted trail markers is occasionally necessary. I also recommend downloading a more detailed map app like Mapy.cz. I found this helpful for finding alternative routes (e.g., when I wanted a lower-altitude option due to an approaching storm).

Getting There

Starting at Wissembourg (North-South)

International hikers can fly into major cities like Paris or Munich, take a train to Strasbourg, then a 45-minute train from Strasbourg to Wissembourg. 

Closer airports to Strasbourg include Strasbourg Airport and Baden-Airpark, though flights to these may be more expensive.

If you need a few days to prepare before your hike, Strasbourg is a better choice than Wissembourg. Strasbourg is a nice city with outdoor stores, supermarkets, accommodation options, and tourist attractions. 

Starting at Hendaye (South-North)

The closest nearby airports are Biarritz and Donostia-San Sebastian. Alternatively, there is a TGV line at Hendaye train station which services all major lines. 

Best Direction to Hike

People hike the trail in both directions, but most go from north to south (SOBO), starting at Wissembourg. This direction allows hikers to gradually build fitness in the Vosges mountains and enjoy a symbolic end at the Atlantic Ocean. However, if you start too early in the season or it’s a high snow year, the Alps (Stages 2 and 3) may be impassable. 

Going NOBO means beginning with the challenging Pyrenees and encountering fewer people on trail. The HexaTrek association is increasingly recommending this direction as it can allow for traversing the Pyrenees and Alps with minimal snow, and avoiding high tourist season. Plus, you finish in the Vosges with autumn in full swing.  

I experienced both directions on my HexaTrek. I walked SOBO through Stage 1, flipped due to snow to walk NOBO through Stages 4, 3, and 2, then finally SOBO again through Stages 5 and 6. During my 1500-kilometer NOBO stint, I met just one other NOBO Hexatrekker. My take: if you want consistent company (e.g., a tramily), you’re more likely to find it heading SOBO – at least until hiker numbers increase.

Why Hike This Trail?

The HexaTrek offers stunning scenery, from snow-capped peaks and dramatic gorges to lush forests and charming villages. 

It’s incredibly varied. As you move through the six stages, you’ll experience changes in landscape, architecture, weather, and culture. The trail even dips into different countries: Switzerland, Spain, and Andorra, plus the culturally distinct Basque country in Spain.

It’s also a cultural and linguistic journey. If you’re coming from a country like the US, this really sets the HexaTrek apart from other thru-hikes (e.g., the PCT). You explore France’s rich history, visit castles, walk by ancient ruins, and immerse yourself in a completely different culture. Plus, there’s the extra challenge and opportunity for those not fluent in French.

Finally, it’s unique to thru-hike a trail in its infancy. Unlike its older counterparts, the HexaTrek is far from perfect. The app isn’t always reliable (they’re still working on a comments feature) and you constantly have to adapt. Towns aren’t yet catering to thru-hikers, resupplies can be trickier, and stores may be unexpectedly closed. There are fewer hikers (just 450 in 2024), and most people won’t have heard of the trail. For some, these challenges make the trail less appealing. For others, they add to the adventure and make you feel like a pioneering badass.

Climate and Weather

Stage 1 is notorious for rain and Stage 4 for heat (especially if you hit the latter in August, as many SOBO hikers will). Make sure your waterproofing system is dialed in, and be prepared to alter your schedule when summer arrives. 

The Alps (Stages 2 and 3) and Pyrenees (Stages 3 and 4) bring typical mountain weather – unpredictable with occasional afternoon storms. If you’re summiting a peak or crossing a tricky pass, you could check in with refuge workers about current conditions. Depending on your start date, snow is possible. Until a comments feature is added to the app (likely in 2025), stay updated via the HexaTrek Discord group.

I and most hikers I knew used the weather app MeteoBlue.

Gear Suggestions 

I used the same gear as I did for the PCT, with a few tweaks. On this trail I focused more on rain gear, adding waterproof gloves, a good poncho, and a reliable pack liner. I also bought tick tweezers (especially important in Stage 1).

A trekking pole tent worked fine, and a bear canister isn’t necessary.

If you’re hiking during a normal snow year and within the recommended season, you shouldn’t need microspikes or an ice axe.

Note that threaded gas canisters can be harder to find (Campingaz’s non-threaded canisters were much more common), but it’s possible. I sometimes called stores ahead or checked Discord comments to see where they were in stock.

If your French is rusty or non-existent, download a translation app (Google Translate can work offline). 

Camping

In France, there’s a key difference between camping and bivouacking. Bivouacking is what you usually do on a thru-hike – temporarily camping in an undeveloped place between the hours of sunset and sunrise (signs typically say 7 p.m. – 9 a.m.), and for just one night. Camping is a more permanent or sustained setup. If you’re asking to stay on someone’s property or explaining your tent setup, use the word bivouac.  

In France, there are rules about where you can bivouac. You don’t need to memorize these as the HexaTrek app shows where it’s permitted (which is on 74% of the trail). The app suggests some specific bivouac spots, but it’s not very detailed – it doesn’t show how many spots are available or their condition, and it currently lacks user comments.

Here are some other sleeping options, which the HexaTrek app also indicates:

Paid campgrounds: Found in most towns, costing around 6-16 Euros, depending on the area. During high season (June-August), and especially during school holidays, campgrounds can be booked out. If you’re concerned about availability, you can often email the campground with your booking details (number of people, tents, and nights) a couple days in advance.

Unguarded refuges: Free shelters, particularly common in the Alps and Pyrenees. Quality varies – some are basic and half-destroyed, while others offer beds, tables, and chimneys.

Guarded refuges: Paid mountain shelters, often with meals and basic accommodation. You can usually choose to pay for just a bed or a demi-pension (bed and meals). Sometimes you can bivouac around the refuge for free or for a small fee.

Auberges and Gites: Other types of guesthouses or hostels.

Note that many accommodation options, especially campgrounds and guarded refuges, start to close from mid-October onward. 

In larger towns or cities (which are rarer), splitting an Airbnb may be a cheap option.

Highlights

The highlights are endless – I’ll give you one of my favorites from each stage.

In Stage 1, you walk through Alsace, a region that sits along the border of France and Germany. Alsace has changed hands between the two countries several times, and is a unique blend of those influences – in cuisine, culture, and even language. I loved chatting with locals about how they viewed their culture and history.

Vanoise National Park, in Stage 2, is one of the oldest national parks in France. It’s a dreamy place, with rugged mountains, alpine lakes, glaciers, and marmots.

I was obsessed with the Glacier of Saint Sorlin in Stage 3. You walk right by it (and can even bivouac nearby), and I was blown away. It doesn’t hurt that this area is filled with gorgeous mountains all around.

It’s not often that kayaking is built into a thru-hike. In Stage 4, you can kayak for a day either through the Gorges du Tarn (if SOBO) or Gorges de l’Ardèche (if NOBO). I did the latter, and cannot recommend it highly enough. It’s a day filled with swimming, limestone giants, and the occasional rapid to keep things interesting.

Stage 5 and the Pyrenees, heading SOBO, kick off with Pic du Canigou – an optional summit sitting at 2,785 meters. If the weather is in your favor, get up for sunrise and enjoy the scramble to the top. Behind you is the Mediterranean Sea; ahead of you are the mountains that are about to kick your ass.

Pyrenees National Park, in Stage 6, is one of my favorite parks ever. For several days, it’s literally nonstop beauty. I get tingles thinking about it now – Le Cirque de Gavarnie and its walls of waterfalls, the snow-dusted Petit Vignemale, the idyllic Lac Gaube, and more than a couple optional 3000+ meter summits. 

Water Sources

Water sources are indicated on the HexaTrek app and include fountains, springs, and streams. I always filtered my water unless a sign indicated it was potable. I know others who took the opposite approach with fountains and springs — only filtering if a sign said it wasn’t potable. 

There are a few things to be conscious of regarding water. Water sources can dry up during summer in Stage 4 particularly, so be extra cautious. Towns sometimes have fountains that aren’t running. An obvious tip – always turn on the tap to check before finishing your water.

Lastly, the HexaTrek app isn’t fully reliable for water information, as it lacks user comments and updates. During Stage 4, I’d say over half the sources marked on the app that I encountered were either nonexistent or not functioning. This should be less of a concern for future hikers when a comments feature is added to the app. In the meantime, you can also check Discord for updates on problem areas.

Resupply Options 

Resupply options are indicated on the HexaTrek app and are usually about two days apart (the maximum stretch being five days). You’ll almost always walk through resupply towns. There was only one time I needed to hitch a ride (Canfranc in the Pyrenees), and a few occasions where I walked a couple extra kilometers to get to a town.

The app lists supermarkets, épiceries (small stores), and some specialty stores (bakeries, fromageries, etc.) I almost exclusively relied on supermarkets when planning ahead. This was partly because I’m vegan, but also because the stock and opening hours of épiceries can be unreliable. 

Many stores (including supermarkets) close for a few hours in the middle of the day, and most are closed on Sundays. The app isn’t comprehensive in its listings; you can check Google Maps to find other stores in the area.

The food in towns isn’t typically geared towards hikers. You’ll find a lot of local cheeses, cured meats, incredible bread, and fresh foods. I could almost always find the staples: oats, trail mix, chocolate, couscous, peanut butter, and bars. There was often ramen, but not always.

Sending Resupply Boxes

I don’t know anyone who sent resupply boxes on trail. I didn’t send boxes because I couldn’t be bothered figuring out where I would need it and working around opening hours. But, it’s possible. You could send boxes to willing campgrounds or hostels (calling ahead to check first) or post offices. Post offices hold boxes for 15 days and charge a fee for the service. Boxes should be addressed to:

Your Name
Poste Restante
Full address of post office

Again, sure you check opening hours (and days). 

A Note for the Vegans

Yes it’s possible – I did the trail entirely plant-based. It was relatively easy to resupply in Stages 1 and 4, though protein sources were harder to find in the Alps and Pyrenees. I carried protein powder during those stages, which I highly recommend. I also got more creative with resupplies in remote areas (one success story involved packing out baked beans in an empty orange juice bottle, tasty). 

Town Highlights

You walk through so many beautiful little towns on the HexaTrek. Here are three of my favorites.

Ribeauvillé is one of the oldest medieval towns in Alsace (Stage 1). Situated on the Wine Route and between the vineyards and mountains, it’s an adorable town that makes you think, “Oh yes, I’m in France.”

Le-Pont-de-Montvert (Stage 4) was perhaps my favorite town on the whole HexaTrek. It’s a charming, historic village with traditional stone architecture. Plus, it sits on the banks of the Tarn River, making it perfect for swimming. When I arrived, I was greeted by a local night market – firmly cementing my love for the town.

Saint-Lary-Soulan, situated a kilometer or so off trail between Stages 5 and 6, is ideal for a couple days off. The town, filled with cafes and restaurants, is likely very lively during high season. When we passed through in September, it was much more tranquil. The one open bar was perfect for celebrating the end of one stage and the beginning of the next. Plus, there was a choir singing traditional Pyrenean songs at the local church. What could be better?

Closing Thoughts

If I had to describe my experience in one word, it would be “complete.” The trail is varied, and every one of the six stages feels unique. I finished feeling like I’d both been on a wild adventure and had really seen France. There was the history and culture, the villages and natural wonders, the solitude and connection.

Bonne courage to you future Hexatrekkers!

Featured image: Photo via Emily Grundy. Graphic design by Zack Goldmann.