Hitting 1500 Miles on the CYTC

This morning I woke up around 4:30am but rolled back over. We have to wait for the NOC to open at 10am, so we don’t want to get there too early. I wound up making a hot drink a little after 5am and then we packed up closer to 6am. Once again we were walking in the dark relatively early.

The day began by leaving Tellico Gap and making our way up to Wesser Bald. It felt good to start the morning on a climb and get warmed up. And it was a relatively easy one. Up top of Wesser Bald the sun was just starting to rise and the views were exceptional. What a way to start the day! Leaving there we had some shorter climbs on and off. Weaving along a narrow ridge line with wide open views on both sides. The trail was rocky and steep at times, especially descending down toward the Nantahala Outdoor Center. I had to go slow at times and watch my footing. I’d rather slow down than risk slipping on a slick rock or pile of leaves and taking a hard tumble.

The sunrise up top of Wesser Bald.

After a while the trail leveled out and we had a fairly gradual descent into the NOC. And it had already warmed up enough that hiking in shorts and a sun hoodie was comfortable. I can’t remember the last time I was able to take my layers off so early! The weather over the last couple of days has been perfect. I’m grateful for the comfort of the sun.

Enjoying the views on top of Wesser Bald!

We got down to the NOC a little after 9am and I was surprised that we hadn’t seen anyone along the way. We passed a couple of shelters but there wasn’t anybody at either. Then when we got to the NOC there was one other hiker sitting outside of the outfitter. Before heading there we went into the general store to grab something quick. I got 2 chocolate milks, some body armor, and a sausage egg and cheese biscuit to microwave. Then we sat outside the gear shop waiting for it to open at 10am.

A sign on top of Wesser Bald.

There was WiFi available so I was able to get my blog and video up for the day. Then just scrolled on my phone and did some work until the store opened. Punisher finally got his box, which he’s been trying to get since Christmas, Florida! It got bounced all around and has been out of reach for weeks. Finally though it actually arrived and was able to be picked up. Then we got our permits for the smokies, which rose to $40 a permit over the last couple years. I think they were $20 when I passed through in 2023. I appreciate where the money is going, but $40 is pretty steep. But obviously the permit was not an optional thing, so there was no negotiating.

Crossing the bridge at the NOC.

After we got what we needed we got packed up and ready to head out. The other hiker we had met was actually going back to Fontana Dam. I guess they had hiked this section already and came back to stay at the NOC. So they got a ride back to Fontana this morning. When we headed out we had a long climb ahead of us out of the NOC. In 2023 we spent countless hours hanging out, eating, and drinking before we started the climb. So in my mind the climb was unbelievably brutal. It was really hot in early April as well. But as we began I was surprised by how gradual it felt to start. Though it was an 8 mile climb on and off, so I knew it was too soon to pass judgement.

Walking along the ridge before we dropped down into the NOC.

The first hour went by quickly and I felt really strong. Fueled by 50+ grams of protein from my sandwich and 2 chocolate milks. The next hour wasn’t so bad either! There were sections that had steps and were notably steeper. But the trail would level out every now and then and give you some reprieve. That’s all I need on a long climb. A chance for my calves to calm down and for me to intermittently catch my breath.

Bright blue skies as we climbed up and out of the NOC.

After a couple hours we had done most of the climbing and I was ready to be wrapping it up. We enjoyed a mile of downhill before the final climb up to Cheoah Bald. Which was pretty steep at times, but the mile went by quickly. Up top it was beautiful and sunny! It was probably the warmest section we’d passed through all day long. So we decided to stop off there for a late lunch around 1:30pm. We’re trying to be better about stopping and eating at least once during the middle of the day.

Views on top of Cheoah Bald.

I made some tortillas with cheese, pepperoni, and goldfish. Then ate a bunch more cheese all on its own. I got the dubliner cheese by kerrigold, which is fantastic. Then I did some stretching and drank a bunch of water before continuing on. At this point we were both pretty low on water. And hadn’t realized that the shelter a ways back was actually the last water source for a while. I was hoping there might be water cached at Stecoah Gap. Because otherwise we had to gone another few miles past there to the next source.

A construction sign before the trail drops into Stecoah Gap.

Leaving the top of the bald we had a nice descent for a handful of miles. Then had the occasional steep but brief climb to do. But everything was much easier compared to the long climb out of the NOC. When we got down to the road there wasn’t any water. But there was a ton of construction going on. The parking area with lined with guys in their trucks working on the road. So I decided to just go up to one of them and ask if they had any water. One guy said he didn’t have water, but he had a couple bottles of ice tea! And another guy gave us a few bottles of water too. By the end we were both able to fill up a liter of water and chug a brisk iced tea there on the spot. It doesn’t get much better than that! This also meant we wouldn’t have to go off trail in 3 miles to that next water source. Which was amazing.

The brisk tea from one of the construction guys.

It was around 4pm at this point and we still had a few hours to go before camp. We were hoping to make it to Cable Gap Shelter, which was going to be a big day. But would set us up to get to Fontana early tomorrow morning. Which is ideal. Leaving the road we had a bit of a climb to do to get up onto the ridge. Then the trail leveled out for another mile before we began a very steep climb. As I walked I was listening to a new audio book, Born to Run by Christopher McDougall. Which I’ve heard about for years but am only just getting around to. It was wonderful. I really like how there has been so much overlap between the various books I’ve listened to so far.

Walking along the trail just before the sun set.

After that final steep climb of the day things got a bit easier. The remaining hills were all very brief, which was great. We passed one guy along that previous climb which was nice. Otherwise we hadn’t seen anyone all day! Then about an hour later we passed by someone set up at camp for the night. Her name was Scorch and we met at trail days in 2024! I definitely needed my memory jogged after meeting so many people there. But it was cool to see her again. And her tent site was lovely with great views of the sun set to come.

We only had another couple miles to go after that though. The sky lit up as the sun began to set, and the day transitioned into my favorite time. When the setting sun lights up the forest and casts its shadows and bright glow onto the trees and other foliage. It was a beautiful way to end another long day of walking.

It was just after 7pm when we arrived at the Cable Gap Shelter to find it empty! Which is always a treat after a 30+ mile day. There was at least one tent set up nearby but we never saw anyone moving around. I grabbed water quickly and then got everything set up inside. Then made a dehydrated meal for dinner and did my stretching. My knees got a little sore today, but only a management amount. I have no actual pain. I just often feel a bit tight after a long day of climbing such as this. Today we did 31 miles with over 8,000 feet of gain, which is no small feat. It was a long day but I really enjoyed the views. And the weather couldn’t have been better!

Hanging out at the Cable Gap Shelter. 

I ate a delicious dinner and then did some writing and video work before finally calling it a night. Tomorrow we will only have just shy of 6 miles to get to Fontana Dam. Where we’re hoping to simply stop off at the marina to grab a couple of things. Then head into the smokies!

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Comments 8

  • Lin : Feb 26th

    Well done PL!! Amazing views and what an incredible day to get all that accomplished ❤️. Born to Run is a fabulous book – bought it for my hubby years ago. Fingers and toes crossed for great weather and fantastic views in the Smokies – it’s wasn’t so good in 2023. That is a huge jump in price for that permit – ouch! I think you’ll find the prices in NH have jumped significantly too. Big hugs 🤗

    Reply
  • Wendy : Feb 26th

    Yes, warmer weather here & hopefully stays that way for you in the mountains! We are back in 60’s & 70’s for daytime & 40’s low nighttime hopefully you have it that good! Beautiful pictures!

    Reply
  • Jabez : Feb 27th

    Jacob’s ladder no problem for u two. Nice! Great section.

    Reply
  • Mongo : Feb 27th

    You guys are killing it. I remember that Yellow Creek/Cheoah being notoriusly difficult in ’74. Enjoying your adventure vicariously…

    Reply
  • jingle bells : Feb 27th

    if pace kept, will still have 40-50 days in year to add another trail… or two

    Reply
  • Sheldog : Feb 27th

    Great work! I am curious how much weight you carry in your pack on an average day?

    Reply
  • will Ludwig : Feb 27th

    You two are crushing it. I don’t think I did a 30 mile day until I crossed into Virginia, but I hadn’t hiked 1500 miles to get there. Happy it warmed up a little for you two. Are you still doing a weekly summary on Thursdays with You Tube?

    Reply
  • Holly : Feb 27th

    Hi PL. I think that night picture is cool. Hope you take more night pictures it really shows us what your environment is like after dark and the type of place you are sleeping and hanging out in.

    Reply

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