It’s a Wrap…Reflections on the Hike of a Lifetime

So long New Zealand-Hey Virginia

In early December, seven weeks into my Te Araroa travels, I hiked into Whanganui on the North Island of New Zealand. Rob and George invited me into their house with a traditional Māori ceremony. “Welcome Donna. Your feet have been treading on Aetaroa as a visitor, now you are one of us. Our country, your country, this is your home.” Humbled, honored. I’ll always be American, but now I have a second home. 

I’ll never go back, but I’ll never forget. I’ve been in the States for a week now. Readjusting. Missing Whittaker Chocolate and Copper Kettle Chips. The summer weather and the ocean breeze. The friends I made. The beauty and sometimes brutality of the wild mountains and muddy bush. Charming accents and friendly smiles. Kia Ora and No Worries. 

There’s an uncomfortable tension in the chilly air of the mountain town where I live in Virginia. People are happy to see me back and ask about my trip. But I sense this unease, a sadness and uncertainty about the state of things in our country. Maybe it’s the cold weather, cabin fever, the winter blues. Maybe it’s me noticing the difference between happy folks on vacation versus people grinding it out in daily life. I don’t know. But I know I don’t like it. Spring is just around the corner. I’m not waiting that long, so I go for a hike. 

Bella is in a good mood. A fantastic mood. She prances and dances down the path. Gets her smells in. Greets others with excitement. When she gets too far away I call out, and she runs back to me with an urgency that pulls at my heart. I think I’ll be spending a lot of time on trail with her and with my other human hiking buddies.

I learned some things in four months immersed in another country. Living with Kiwis in town and surrounded by hikers from all over the world on trail, I noticed differences, but realized we are the same. As individuals, same struggles, same joys. But, when we’re separated by nationality, the differences are obvious. Everyday when I met someone, I could sense them sizing me up and if I didn’t self-identify right away, they’d ask “American or Canadian?” Then the question: “What in the world is going on in your country?” I’d spend five minutes explaining, apologizing, reassuring. No one understands the current political and cultural shifts in the States. People tell me they used to look to the US for guidance, but now, they’ll find another source. I’ve led a sheltered and privileged life, thinking “greatest country” and all. Now, I’m not so sure. 

The fun part:

Fav Food: A whole bag of Copper Kettle Chips, Sea Salt (no Vinegar)

Fav Drink: Bundaberg Ginger Beer (really Australian, but) Honorable Mention: A good Chablis from the Otago Region

Fav Great Walk: Abel Tasman Coastal Walk

Fav Day Hike: (hard one, but) Kaikōura Peninsula Walk

Fav TA Section: Any and all beach walks

Fav Wildlife Sighting: Blue Penguins (omg)

Fav Boat Ride: Canoeing for four days down the Whanganui River

Worst Boat Ride: (hah) One hour of hell crossing Foveaux Strait coming back from Steward Island  

Fav Conversion: NZ dollar to US dollar

Most Confusing Conversation: Celsius to Fahrenheit 

Fav Euphemism: Sweet Fanny Adams (look it up)

Fav Kiwi Word: Jandals, Chilly-bin (tie)

Fav Church: First Baptist in Nelson, (visited 12, all different denominations)

Fav Library: Christchurch (another hard one, visited 13)

Fav Grocery Store Chain: Woolworths (not same historical family as US Woolworths) 

Fav fun fact: We are about the only English speaking country that does not pronounce Z as “Zed”

Favorite Kiwi: Christine, Buzzy Bee (tie)

Fav Game Show: The Chase

Fav sport I didn’t get to see live: Netball 

Fav sport I saw live: Dad teaching his kids how to pitch a wicket (Cricket)

Fav City or Town: All of them, but I loved the funkiness of old school Dunedin, the sophistication of progressive Auckland, and the remoteness of peaceful Bluff. 

I’m back in the real world, as broken as it is, but grateful and serious as Mary Oliver described. I’m a changed person. I can’t tell you exactly what has changed, but I can tell you one thing that has not. I started my journey with the goal to thru hike Te Araroa. Midway, I realized maybe I’m too old or just not motivated anymore to hike and backpack. I took a different approach, but stayed close to the path. Still, doubt crept in. As I get back to work and settle into the rhythm of daily “normal” life, I’m having less doubtful, more action oriented thoughts. If I’m ready to give up backpacking, I probably wouldn’t be having these thoughts. Restless, longing, a bit of grieving are normal I know, but I also feel that something is missing. You hikers know. A good way to beat the post-trail blues is to plan for the next hike. Maybe I should hold onto my gear a bit longer. Maybe my old body is not yet ready to hang up my hiking shoes. Maybe there’s another adventure calling me. I think I hear it. Faintly, then clear and loud as the ringtone on a senior citizen’s flip phone. Of course, area code originates in the Sunshine State, aka Snow Bird State, aka Where Old Adventurers Go to Hike Flat Trails State. The Florida Trail awaits. Winter 2026. Stay tuned.