John Muir Trail Day 10: Rae Lakes to Pinchot pass…and Bouncing Back From a Trail Thrashing

Waking up in our tent, I wondered how we managed to find the world’s worst campsite at Rae Lakes. Actually I know exactly what happened and instantly stopped bullying myself for what occurred yesterday.

(Want to see the people, places and all-around mayhem mentioned in this post? Here’s the Instagram Reel I might regret posting…)

It had been a hard day stuffed full of lessons learned and I was thankful as all hell that I was feeling mentally and physically better. I turned to look at Cliff, my hiking partner/husband, still sleeping next to me, and refrained from waking him up. I struggled my way out of the tent, wondering if I was ever going to be able to make that exit a graceful one, and looked around the area. What a shit view for such a beautiful place, I mused. 

Recovering From a Hard Day Full of Lessons Learned

I tottered on stiff legs, eventually working my way into a stroll towards a grove of trees. I intended to pee, but noticed there were so many tents around that privacy was non-existent. Luckily, no one seemed to be awake. I hastily got the job done and ambled back to our tent in time to see Cliff emerge.

We made coffee, ate a quick breakfast and broke down camp fairly fast to be on our way as soon as possible. We needed to get from Rae Lakes to as close as we could to the foot of Pinchot Pass.

A Rare Day of No Mountain Passes 

It was a rare day, and only our second of the JMT that we would not be tackling a mountain pass or summit. That’s not to say that significant elevation loss, followed right up with a large amount of elevation gain, isn’t taxing. As I would find out soon enough, there were no easy days on the JMT. None.

The Beauty of Rae Lakes

As we began to hike, I took in our surroundings and understood why Rae Lakes was a JMT favorite. This region was beautiful and the morning sun and clear skies created more picture- perfect moments than I ever had time to capture with my camera. We set a quick pace and moved from one beautiful alpine lake scene to another, never becoming bored with the views.

Following the Landscape from Lush and Green to Dry and Arid

As we passed the last of the lakes, the trail followed a creek as it led us through a verdant landscape into an increasingly arid section of Kings Canyon, where it had obviously been hit with a significant forest fire. In these hard-hit areas of the trail, there was very little shelter from the high altitude sun.  We hiked faster, hoping to find relief, even if it was short lived, under sparse groves of trees.

Starting the Long, Gentle Ascent Towards Pinchot Pass

We grew quiet as we hiked along, waiting for the bend in the trail that finally delivered us to the suspension bridge at the intersection of Woods Creek Trail and the JMT. Before crossing we took a lunch break in the deep shade of ancient towering evergreens. As I ate, I also mentally prepared to start the long, ascending approach that would take us as close as we could hike to the base of Pinchot Pass. The farther we could push ourselves today, the less mileage we would have to knock out before ever starting the actual steep climb up to the mountain pass. 

Luckily, the trail provided us with gorgeous waterfalls and jagged mountains so stunning that it was easy to forget, at times, that we were tired, hungry and wishing to be done for the day.

Within a few miles of our camp for the night, the trail wound through a maze of head-high shrubbery. It was here (I think) that my unprotected hands, always strapped into my trekking poles, brushed past an unknown variety of plant life that would create a blisteringly adverse reaction in the next few days. Oblivious at the time, I enjoyed the labyrinth, while also wondering if we would come across a bear as we rounded too many blind corners to count.

Coming Across One of Our Favorite Campsites on the JMT

As it turns out, we were not lucky enough to see a bear, but we did happen across one of my most favorite campsites of all of the JMT. We had just stepped off the trail to set up our tent at an established site, but stopped when we noticed a faint footpath leading deeper into the woods and closer to a nearby river. In the pursuit of attempting to sleep well in the backcountry, camping close to a running river (while adhering to Leave No Trace) was second only to slumbering near a waterfall. Knowing this, we pushed on until the path delivered us into a small clearing surrounded by shivering aspens. Beyond this perfect campsite was a rocky overlook to the wide river below.

Walking to the edge, I saw a gentle trail leading easily down to the river for an easy source of water. It was a dream we took full advantage of as we climbed down to the shoreline and hopscotched to wide flat rocks under the shade of overhanging trees. We took off our dust- covered shoes and socks and plunged our feet into the frigid waters, letting the cold work wonders on our sore, exhausted feet. As the river flowed around our little island rock, there was no denying the rejuvenating effects of this entire experience. There was not another soul around us and the deep peace that I felt was at a foundational level. Yes, we were tired, sore, dirty, sweaty, and smelling more and more like a field of crushed onions, but we were also content on a level that I had never felt before.

I was ready for whatever was next and it was on this day and in this moment that I knew that, no matter what the trail brought my way, I could handle it.  What a gift.

Stats for us hiker nerds

Day 10- August 26, 2024

Rae Lakes to the base of Pinchot Pass

Mountain Pass/Summit: None

Elevation Loss: 2,058’ (from Rae Lakes to the suspension bridge at the Woods Creek Trail/JMT intersection)

Elevation Gain: 2,533’ (from the suspension bridge at the Woods Creek Trail/JMT intersection to campsite along the approach to Pinchot Pass)

Mileage: 12-ish

Want to see all the people, places and all-around mayhem mentioned in this post?  Head on over to TikTok or Instagram!