A slow-paced wilderness immersion for PCT preparation in Southern Africa

PCT Prep in the slow lane

To welcome in 2025 Chris and I spent time immersed in wilderness, well out of mobile connectivity. We joined a group of friends on a 5 night hike in Pondoland, which is a remote coastal region of South Africa. This region is home to the Pondo people and was nominally-independent during Apartheid years as part of the greater Transkei, which runs along the southern strip of Indian Ocean coastline. This region is underdeveloped and simply getting from one town to the next can take ages given old circuitous roads, rugged mountains, deep ravines, forests and rivers. There are few places left on earth with no mobile coverage and this is one of them. People here live traditional agrarian lives – close to the earth and deeply reliant on community support.

Pondoland Mbotyi hike as PCT preparation Nina Butler

Looking back the gorge we descended on day 2. All images by Nina Butler.

We saw the Pondoland hike as a symbolic start to 2025 – an inviting and fun first step in our training and preparation for the PCT. We will be doing a thru-hike from May – October 2025, and although we are experienced hikers and generally fit, we understand that hiking 30kms (± 20miles) a day for 140 days carrying a pack between 12-20kgs is unlike anything we’ve ever done before. Although we love navigating a trail ourselves, we wanted to join our friends on this guided slack-packing hike, and support a good cause over the festive time of New Years.

Pondoland hike, South Africa. PCT preparation Nina Butler

Cathedral Rock – left us all in awe!

Hiking with the Pondo community

The Pondoland hike is organised by a community cooperative called Mboyti Online. Every step of the 5 night hike was guided by either Madwe or VAT – brothers who grew up in Pondoland. The food was bought and prepared by their sister, Zama. Each night we stayed in a homestead, or fisherman’s cottage, that is owned by the members of the Pondo community. The only exception being the last night, when we stayed in a cottage owned by family friends of Madwe and VAT, who were also playing a supportive role in bringing together the itinerary. Our transport to and from Durban – where we all gathered to begin and end the hike – was facilitated by Pondo taxi owners.

It was an absolute privilege to journey through the wilderness on foot with a local Pondo guide. Each day we hiked between 11 – 14 miles along the coast, stopping for swims in infamously shark-infested river mouths and under spectacular waterfalls that I cannot believe are still a secret! In conversation with our guides, we learnt about local customs and village scandal, as well as the hopes and dreams for the future of Pondoland.

Pondoland hike South Africa. PCT preparation Nina Butler

Guided by VAT (and Lola!)

Upon departing our first night accommodation – an off-grid eco-village overlooking a gorge and indigenous forest – the owner’s dog took up the trail with us and remained part of the team until the very last day. Lola became a lucky charm and 10th member of our crew. We felt that she chose us. We kept her safe over the innumerable river crossings, snake encounters, and whilst meandering through homesteads (where other dogs were keen to banish our 10th hiker).

 

Pondoland hike South Africa. PCT preparation Nina Butler

Lola leading the way!

What we are taking with us from Pondoland

Our hiking group was awesome – a wonderful mix of backgrounds and interests, and everyone brought something unique to the experience, from photography, to birding, yoga, botany, great snacks and good jokes. I think that what made us gel as a group was the fact that everyone arrived ‘open’ to the experience and no one tried to take control or micro-manage any aspects of the day. We had a general idea of what to expect, but everyone was open to things panning out a little differently. We also were not trying to beat any PB’s or rush into the accommodation each night. The slow pace was both personally enjoyable and good for intra-group dynamics.

 

Pondoland hike, Mboyti, South Africa. PCT preparation Nina Butler

Good vibes only!

Swimming on this hike was balm for the soul. In summer this region is very humid and can be oppressively hot. We got to bathe in river crossings, river mouths, big Indian Ocean swells, and even under stunning waterfalls. Each swim not only refreshed me, but left me feeling more relaxed and connected to the landscape. I began to recognise that every opportunity for a swim is a good opportunity and not to be passed up. I hope we can maintain this perspective on the PCT when we have more ambitious plans for milage each day.

Pondoland Hike South Africa. PCT preparation Nina Butler

Wading through the water

The slow pace was also in keeping with Pondoland. In remote areas time tends to slow down to it’s own spirit rhythm. We were forced to accept delays, reroutings and mishaps. It was not a ‘smooth operation’, but we were always safe and always ‘somewhere along the way to Mbotyi’. This for me was the most special gift I took away from the Pondoland hike – a reminder to be open to the unplanned and to find laughter and lightness in the imperfect, messy occurrences. As a trip planner and perfectionist when it comes to curating itineraries, I had to sit back and let the path take us ‘somewhere along the way to Mbotyi’. I soon learnt that everywhere along the way to Mbotyi is precious, and worth stopping to appreciate.

Pondoland hike, South Africa. PCT preparation Nina Butler

The slow lane in Pondoland.

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Comments 1

  • Jess : Jan 31st

    Gotta say – this is one of the cooler, more unique prep hikes I’ve seen! Looked like a blast. What beautiful photos

    Reply

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