Dear AT, I was unfaithful…

“Rollin’ along Pacific Coast Highway. Bummin’ along to my radio” Pacific Coast Highway, The Mamas and the Papas

A few miles on the Pacific Crest Trail

Many other priorities take time away from pursuing the AT for section hikers. Spending time with my wife, Nightengale, and traveling are one of those priorities in our retirement. We try to take at least one big trip a year and usually end up taking two or even three trips. This year’s big trip was to Seattle and the Pacific Northwest for ten days. In addition to seeing Seattle, we planned a day each in Mount Rainier National Park, Olympic National Park, Mount Hood National Forest, and the Columbia River Gorge. We did some day hiking in each of those areas, and of course, I knew the Pacific Crest Trail passed near Mount Hood and over the Columbia River at Cascade Locks. I do not have any presumption that I will ever thru-hike or complete the PCT. However, I could not resist hiking a few miles on this triple crown trail. So, I cheated on the Appalachian Trail by spending some of my valuable hiking days on another National Scenic Trail, The Pacific Crest Trail.

PCT Trailhead above Timberline Lodge, Mount Hood, OR

Bridge of the Gods

The first stop, although not a true day hike, was the Bridge of the Gods. At first, I just wanted a photo; but the siren song was there on the Columbia River. I had to walk across the iconic PCT milestone from Oregon to Washington. In fact, I even walked back from Washington to Oregon. My wife walked with me as well. It was quite overcast on this day and the views up and down the river were not as magnificent as hoped; nevertheless it was a memorable experience. I imagined what it must feel like for thru-hikers to cross into Washington with only 500 or so miles left to the Canadian border. A couple thru-hikers were walking around Cascade Locks, but I didn’t have a chance to talk with them. A few photos snapped and we were off to check-in to our base camp for a few days along the Columbia River and Mount Hood. We stayed about seven miles from the Bridge of the Gods at the Carson Hot Springs Resort. The hot springs were discovered in 1876 and a hotel was added in 1897; these original buildings are still in use today. A bit pricey for thru-hikers, but perfect for day hikers!

PCT Bridge of the Gods, NOBO, from Cascade Locks, OR

PCT Bridge of the Gods, NOBO Welcome to Washington

PCT Bridge of the Gods, SOBO from Washington

Timberline Lodge and Mount Hood

The next day we drove a couple hours into Oregon to see Mount Hood near the Timberline Lodge. During our recon of the area while planning the trip, I noted that the PCT passes right behind the Timberline Lodge and continues around Mount Hood. Walking along the PCT for about a mile was the original plan, but my wife suggested that this would be a good time for me to take a longer day hike alone. So, after about a half mile, she went back to explore Timberline Lodge. I continued NOBO on the PCT with the goal of turning around at Zig Zag Canyon. So, a bit more than four miles out and back day hike on the PCT. The PCT is only a couple hundred yards behind the Timberline Lodge, uphill towards Mount Hood. This is, of course, above treeline and I was immediately struck how different the PCT is from the AT. I have hiked above treeline in the Alps before; however, this terrain was quite different. In the Julian Alps, you are surrounded by high peaks. But in this part of the Cascades, Mount Hood seemed to be the only peak visible and it was difficult to keep from looking up at the mountain. Off to the south, Mount Jefferson did poke through the layer of clouds, but that peak was often hidden even by the small Whitebark pines just at the treeline. After about a mile going NOBO from Timberline Lodge, I came to a couple dry canyons coming down from Mount Hood, including Sandy Canyon as the trail starts to drop below the treeline. These canyons are very different from the hollows and watershed ravines on the AT. When the PCT drops below the treeline below Mount Hood, it enters another unique world – at least to this section and day hiker. On the west side of Mount Hood, Douglas fir “rainforests” are the dominant landscape and the canyons run a bit deep. On this day, I also dipped into the low hanging clouds and mist covering the forests and canyons. Around a bend, I was surprised by a covey of sooty grouse, another first for this hiker. Coming down into Little Zig Zag, I was greeted by both ends of a rainbow!

PCT Trailhead, Timberline Lodge, Mount Hood, OR

Mount Hood from PCT NOBO, near Timberline Lodge, OR

Mount Jefferson, south from PCT NOBO, near Mount Hood, OR

PCT NOBO, Mount Hood Wilderness, OR

Sooty Grouse, PCT NOBO, Mount Hood Wilderness, OR

PCT Postscript

While I still doubt I will ever want to complete the PCT, I definitely would like to day hike the trail again someday. And maybe even an overnight or two. I could see myself going from Timberline Lodge to the Bridge of the Gods. I do have a “wish list” of hikes and the John Muir Trail is near the top and it has the double advantage of running mostly in conjunction with the PCT.  However, all of that is very wishful thinking until I finish the Appalachian Trail. PPS: I still love the AT best!

Afterword: As I post this, the Appalachian Trail communities of North Carolina, Tennessee, and southern Virginia, are struggling with the destruction caused by Hurricane Helene. All of us who love the AT, wish you hope and strength as you try to recover.

PCT Trail Blaze, Mount Hood Wilderness, OR

Rainbow, PCT NOBO, Little Zig Zag Canyon, Mount Hood Wilderness, OR