It’s No Picnic But There is Fruit

Leaving Scissors Crossing.

Highs and lows define the PCT. Looking at an elevation profile of a section consistently illustrates how you follow the trail up only to find yourself going right back down and up again. As I ascended and descended through the Laguna Mountains to the flatlands of the San Felipe Valley to the Anza-Borrego Desert to Warner Springs to the San Jacinto Wilderness and finally to Idyllwild, I realized that highs and lows characterize the PCT both physically and mentally. During my first two weeks on trail, from Campo to Idyllwild, I hiked 179.4 miles which introduced me to a sampling of the daily challenges and rewards that the trail can provide. 

Leisure and Learning in the Laguna Mountains 

Leaving Laguna Campground started off slowly. I was feeling tired and had awoken to a collapsed, dewy tent that had soaked my sleeping bag. Julian was still a couple of days away and I began to regret my decision to not have showered when I was in Mount Laguna. After shuffling along for five miles, I came upon the Pioneer Mail Picnic Area. 

Pioneer Mail Picnic Area.

No one else was around and it was too appealing to pass by. With lots of grass and tall shade trees, I quickly proceeded to claim a picnic table, laid out my tent and sleeping bag in the sun to dry, and had a long, leisurely early lunch. Laying around felt glorious and reminded me that I can slow down as much as I please. After lunch, I continued to what I would learn is called the Wiipuk Uun’yaw trail. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Wiipuk Uun’yaw or “Desert Path” trail is recognized as a cultural landscape with great significance to the local Kwaaymii and Kumeyaay people. Interestingly, the path today is lined with numerous memorials, from a poster honoring Country Al Turner the KCBQ Cowboy to a metal plaque in memory of the 2020 PCT hiker, Gina Rae, who passed away in 2021. The preservationist in me was fascinated by the historical complexity of this section of the trail. I ended up going back to review all the memorials again and decided I would do some research once I completed my PCT journey. 

One of the memorials along this section of the trail.

Taking time to enjoy the Pioneer Mail Picnic Area and study some historical features of the trail served as validation for why I am hiking. The PCT offers a unique perspective of local places. Through this lens, I’m provided the opportunity to learn about parts of local history and culture that I otherwise never knew about. Making sure I am slowing down enough to have these kinds of experiences is important to me and something I will strive to prioritize as I continue my hike. 

A Jaunt to Julian and Just East

It had been an early start that day. 4:45 AM I was back on the trail. Julian awaited me. It is the quaint mountain town known for apple pie—yet another place from my childhood, one filled with memories of my grandma and tea parties. As the sun rose, it felt like a race against the heat. I had to hike about 15 miles that day to get to Scissors Crossing. By the time I got to the underpass, I was dripping in sweat but beaming with sweet excitement for town. Soon after my arrival, I also got my first experience of trail magic. A kind man on his way to Arizona promptly pulled over upon seeing me on the highway and gave me a basket of ruby-red strawberries, navel oranges, and a chilled bottle of water. Little did he know, I had been fantasying about fresh fruit for the last two days and, after promptly thanking him, I scurried back to the shaded underpass where I feasted on my precious produce. 

My gloriously gratifying goodies.

While sitting there, rapt in my fruity ecstasy, I ended up finding a trail angel’s number and coordinated my ride to Julian. Promptly after getting to Julian, I ironically found myself taking a different ride to Stagecoach Trails Campground & RV Park. Taking about half an hour to reminisce in Julian, turned out to be satisfying enough for me and I realized what I really wanted was a cheap shower and laundry, leading me to hit the road. Stagecoach offered these exact amenities and I decided to stay the night. Little did I know that was when the winds would change. 

Introducing Stagecoach Trails Campground & RV Park.

An exposed area, the tent site offered minimal windbreaks. Initially, I had been unconcerned about this point given the lack of breeze all day. However, after an evening phone call with my partner, I returned to a tent struggling to keep upright against the billowy gusts. Though it stood, I had doubts about my pitching. “I can do better,” I reasoned, and casually undid my work, prepared to rebuild my tent. The sun had gone down and it was now dark, but I had a headlamp and was convinced it would not be too much longer till I laid snuggly in my sleeping bag cocoon. How wrong I was.

I’ll always remember you, picnic table.

For the next two hours, I fought the wind. Again and again, I tried a new location, attempted to secure my stakes and find heavier rocks, only to have the wind knock my tent down like we were playing a game of Jenga. At one point, the wind was extra cruel and grasped my tent in one of its currents, sending me desperately running in pursuit. Eventually, I sat down in the dirt and contemplated the choices I made that day. How did I get here? 

Needing a moment, I sought sanctuary in the laundry room, where I calmed myself by repacking my things and debating my options. Gingerly, I returned to the wind tunnel, then found myself lost in the campground. Where, oh, where was the PCT hiker camping area? By the time I had navigated myself back, I was exhausted and just wanted to sleep. I looked at a picnic table underneath a tree. This would be my shelter. As I laid on my sleeping pad and tried to shield myself in my sleeping bag, I looked up at the underside of the table, pretended it was some rustic roof in a cabin, closed my eyes and tried to forget about the wind. Whooooshhhh, psssshhhhh, woooshhhhh!!! Relentlessly, it raged throughout the night. 

Leaving the Wind for the Birds

My redeeming pitch at Third Gate.

The wind would persist until I got to Third Gate, where I scrupulously pitched my tent. I was so eager to get to Warner Springs. When I finally dropped in elevation and was walking through Warner Springs Meadow, the absence of the wind’s harsh sound was so soothing, that I was convinced there was never such a peaceful place. I barely saw anyone that day. Instead, birds were my companions. I watched crows hop around in the meadow and a turkey scurry up a hillside. Western meadowlarks sang and a mighty stone Eagle greeted me upon reaching mile 106.2. 

I’m back, Eagle Rock!

Years ago, my mom and I had visited this rock. I remember thinking throughout the entire hike that one day I’ll do the PCT! It felt rewarding to be rewalking those steps, knowing I was fulfilling a nearly ten-year-old dream. That evening, I camped about 0.2 of a mile from town, on a sandy bank within hearing distance of a flowing creek. With an oak overhead, the light turned soft and the air was beautifully still except for the sound of a delicate trickle of water.

Idyll in Idyllwild 

Sunrise over the Coachella Valley.

After collecting my resupply box at the post office and enjoying the extensive amenities at the Warner Springs Community Center, I set course for Idyllwild. It would take nearly a week to get there, but the moment I crossed HWY 74 and began going up in elevation, I was renewed by an energy that enlivens me whenever I visit the mountains. Coniferous trees, dramatic bird’s-eye views, and close proximity to peaks are just a few features that consistently seem to excite me. In addition, I had the promise of company upon reaching town. A traveling friend of mine would be making a pit stop to see me and I was really looking forward to meeting up with her. As I continued through the San Jacinto Mountains, I encountered an exceedingly rude rattlesnake, more trail magic in the form of navel oranges, a captivating sunrise over the Coachella Valley, and numerous tree blowdowns requiring some creative climbing. When I got to the Humber Park Trailhead, my friend was pulling into the parking lot and we both couldn’t believe the extraordinarily well-coordinated timing. 

That “I made it to town!!” feeling.

I ended up taking a full zero in Idyllwild, allowing myself time to leisurely complete the necessary town tasks (laundry, shower, picking up my resupply box, charging electronics, etc.). To my great delight, it also turned out my brother was on his way to Idyllwild and he joined me for a brief section of the PCT. Waking up at 4 AM, we switchbacked our way up the Devil’s Slide trail, enjoying the morning views and coolness of the air. Eventually, we parted ways at Strawberry Junction. I was so happy to have seen both my friend and brother as well as enjoy the luxuries that a town offers. I embarked towards Whitewater, refreshed and ready for whatever it held in store.

Bye, bye, Idyllwild.