Pondering Pennsylvania and Other Observations

Pondering Pennsylvania 

We finally stepped out of Pennsylvania, so I feel I can talk about the experience.  We had been warned about PA at every turn of our trip by veteran hikers.  “Look out for Rocksylvania,” they would say.  Now that we were in PA, it just did not seem that bad.  In the middle of the state, we ran across “Jinx”, a long time hiker who was handing out trail magic just before Swatara State Park.  One of the hikers asked Jinx why she was handing out drinks, and she said it was an apology for what was about to happen to us.  While said in jest, clearly, there was also a warning there.  

Rocks and More Rocks

The trail slowly turned from having some rocks in the trail to miles of stony trail and multiple scree fields.  This heavy rocked trail went on for over 80 miles/128 KM.  Ma Wampus and I replaced our boots just three weeks ago, after walking hundreds of miles – Merrill’s and Timberland.  These are excellent boots but no match for this terrain.  Ma’s Timberlands have large tears on the inside, while my Merrill’s have chunks missing from the Vibram soles.  It trashed our boots, and our feet.  Further, it was exhausting watching your every step for miles to limit the chances of a sprain or other foot injury.  

Even with this increased effort, we collectively had more falls (caused by slips) in this 80 mile/128KM section than we did the previous 1000 miles/1609 KM.   This difficulty was further complicated by the heat, 95-100F/35-38C, which dried up the springs.  This heatwave resulted in more than a few 16 mile/25KM + stretches where there was no water.  

We know of several hikers injured in this stretch.  Shin splints and sprains seem to be the main culprits pushing people off the trail.  We also heard a number of podiatry issues.  We also met more than a couple of hikers that skipped the section and plan to come back to it later.  

Video Game

While rocks defined this section, it had much more to offer.  In some ways, this section was almost like a video game, where we were the avatars.  We crossed a beaver dam swamp area filled with water moccassins.  

There were multiple rock scrambles, including a few requiring a vertical climb, with pack. 

We crossed several scree fields, remnants of huge ice sheets millions of years ago.  

There were issues other than damaged feet, of course.  Ma Wampus continues to have a problem with a three leafed plant: poison ivy.  My major issue was a bit more dramatic.  

Pa’s Shortcut

Approximately 70 feet from the bottom of the mountain near Port Clinton, Ma and I were discussing lunch near our hotel.  A huge rainstorm had drenched the trail, and us, earlier that morning, and we were looking forward to a big meal!  

Just One Wrong Step

I stepped out onto a rock step, but it was wet and I slipped.  I stepped back to get my balance and put my foot against another rock.  With the rain, it had loosened and gave way, sending me backwards.  Backwards was a problem, because behind me was just air, a very steep and rocky descent, and a railway yard some 70ft/21M below.  I dropped to my knees to lower my center of gravity but my pack was already moving back.  I drove my trekking poles into the ground to buy me some time.  They both hit PA rock, and bounced.  I felt that sickening weightless feeling.  

Landing initially on my pack pushed the air out of my lungs, causing me to gasp for air.  I grabbed for a small tree but I was going too fast and it ripped from my grasp.  The action did turn me somewhat, which caused me to roll toward the stairs.  I went down 4-5 of them, some 20 feet/6M, before I was able to hit a solid rock and skid to a stop.  

Helping Hand

A shuttle driver and paramedic was in the process of dropping off some horrified hikers, when she witnessed my stunt.  She made contact with me before Ma Wampus, who was actively trying to get down the mountain the right way.  “Are you ok? Do you need help?  Say something if you are ok,” she said. I was in the process of self assessing when I finally acknowledged the shuttle driver’s multiple requests that I speak. Without letting myself cool off a bit, I let the shuttle driver know my dislike for the PA section of the trail.  My language was a bit more colorful.  “Yeah, the wet stones are very slippery,”she offered.  

Overall, it worked out.  The shuttle driver gave us a free ride to our hotel.  We took an extra day when Ma Wampus vetoed our plan to go out the next morning.  I was moving a bit slow and flinched a bit too much for her liking.  I had several scratches and bruises, including a nice one outlining my pack straps from my shoulders to my belt line.  No major damage though, so we were back at it after a day’s rest.  

Review

Just a footnote here – yes, I was cranky and angry about the trail.  Hiking, however, is not a spectator sport. It requires attention, which is exponentially increased in dangerous situations – like wet rocks and steep declines.  I was thinking about steak, not hiking.  This cost me another day in a hotel just so I could function, and damaged another pair of glasses and my pack.  The blame here lies with the hiker, not the trail.  

Friends and Cheesecake

We ran into Steady and Highlighter at the hotel, two hikers from Maine who we met on Day 1 in GA.  We collectively decided that we needed to officially celebrate our half way journey by eating a half pound of cheesecake.  I was more than skeptical, but agreed to participate, imagining the nausea I would feel after eating a half pound of creamy cheesecake.  Peer pressure is a thing.  My fears were over imagined.  We finished in 20 minutes – I finished first.  I could probably have eaten another slice or two.  The amount of food I can eat at one sitting now is crazy.  

Other Observations

Pennsylvania has been amazing for history.  We walked through the ghost town of Rausch Gap, a mining town that had a population over 1000.  You would have no idea it was even there – the forest has taken it over completely.  The town’s hay day was in the 1850s but had been abandoned by around 1910.

Within a few miles of Hamburg and the trail is the Yuengling Brewery, the oldest brewery in the United States.  We didn’t hit this but it would have been a worthy trip.  There were a few other things though that peaked my interest.  

Men of Peace

On the trail near a beautiful mountain spring was a simple marker naming the place Pilgrim’s Rest, and that Count Von Zinzendorf and Conrad Weiser drank here.  Hundreds of mountain springs can be found on the AT – not many named.  This merited investigation.  

Zinzendorf, a Moravian noble, funded missionaries.  Unfortunately, they often succumbed to disease and frontier violence.  Zinzendorf, coming under a great deal of criticism for his “suicide missions”, took a drastic step to prove his faith.  He came here to personally meet with the native tribes and the colonial governments to negotiate safe passage for his missionaries.  This perilous journey required a tested hand.  Colonial figures asked Conrad Weiser to go with him, and he agreed.  

Weiser was a major negotiator on the Lancaster Treaty with the Iroquois Confederation.  One of the Mohawk chiefs regarded Weiser as an adopted son of the tribe.  Weiser once hiked in the dead of winter to negotiate peace with the Iroquois and other native tribes.  The Iroquois, impressed with his fortitude, named him “Holder of the Heavens”.  Weiser likewise favored the Iroquois and supported their positions.   His efforts cemented the Iroquois alliance with Britain before and during the French and Indian Wars.  

After his death, relations slowly soured.  By the time the Revolutionary War broke out, the Iroquois were quite disillusioned with their neighbors.  This resulted in much of the Iroquois Confederation siding with Britain.  

Men of War

Brant

Crossing the trail near High Point State Park, we came across some signage noting destroyed homesteads and towns during the Revolutionary War.  One name came up repeatedly: Joseph Brant.  

Joseph Brant was a Mohawk war chief, who had been very active as a warrior during the Seven Year’s War against the French and her native allies.  Brant was also well educated and was a charismatic speaker.  

When the Revolutionary War broke out Brant argued to support the crown.  He led a group of Mohawk and loyalist supporters into several battles.  Their main strategy were the lightening fast raids that disputed the frontier.  Brant was so successful that he was often blamed for attacks that were not his doing.  He became the bogeyman, and it could not have made him happier.  

One of the battles Brant participated in was the battle of Minisink.  Here a group of militia attempted to ambush Brant, and it backfired spectacularly, resulting in most of the militia being slaughtered.  This result happened frequently and Brant became a major target for American forces, which he frustrated throughout the war.  

As a side note, the Iroquois were largely displaced after the war.  The British government provided land for them in Canada.  Brant’s efforts were a major reason this occurred.  

Sullivan

With Brant and the Iroquois being blamed for setting the frontier on fire, Washington needed a strategy to deal with this issue.  Enter John Sullivan.  

Sullivan was tasked with addressing this Iriquois threat by Washington.  Sullivan marched approximately 4000 troops into Iroquois country and started burning towns, 47 of them.  This action did not hinder the Iroquois military machine, which kept up their attacks.  Destruction of these towns and their food supplies, however, led to starvation and resulted in the deaths of thousands of Iroquois.  The Iroquois gave Washington the name “Town Burner” after this expedition.  An eventual treaty opening up the Ohio Valley was a direct result of this depopulation.  

Shoutouts 

This section was full of people helping us get through this journey.  Thank you Jinx for the amazing root beer floats on that 96F/35C day.  Thanks to Philly for placing that water cache in that 20 mile/32k dry stretch.  Thank you Slick for the advice and the cold drinks in PA.  Thanks to Triss for the cold gatorade and good company.  Thank you Teach for the July 4 BBQ, it will be one we remember.  Finally, thank you Mark for the ride to town!  

That’s it for this week.  Next, Deli Blazing in NJ/NY!